A Good Time at Pinnacles

[Zay]

Had a great time showing my friend from Arizona around. I hoped to give her a good shmorgishboard of the park, and what it has to offer...

First day, East Side:
Started with Portent, then The Cleft. Then I was fortunate enough to meet Gavin, who was gracious enough to pull my rope up the Verdict so we could top rope it. I've led it, but it resulted in some big whippers, and since Claire weight 100 lbs wet, I was happy to be attack it care free.
We then headed back to the Tourist trap, attacking Nipple Jam, and top roping Pastie and Thrill Hammer.

Back in the Parking lot, we met Brad and John! Super stoked to talk to you guys. Btw, I forgot to mention Liz Skelton was also my art teacher in high school, and her cat scratched the crap out of me when I was 5

Second day, West Side.
Started with Chockstone Dome, attacking Walk The Plank, Overboard, and the Regular Route.
We then absconded to Toog's, and threw ourselves at Toog's Alligator. Having no large gear, I ended up running out the chimney after the last bolt until building an anchor in some "great" rock. The direct finish was exciting!

I have to say, Toog's took the medal for loosest climb I've completed yet. Sending the Inn Crowd/Brosseaue to second place!

Finished the day with Cool Daze for some well earned, bomber-knob, bolted face climbing.

I hope I did a good job, she was less than enthused about a few things, frankly appalled by the art of having to navigate the rock. It was a great cause to look inside why I live Pinnacles so much. It's an art, you can't just Willy nilly throw yourself at any good looking hold. The sound of the Swifts and swallows, the running creeks (on occasion), the wind and echoes against Machete bouncing off The Balcnies. It's a character not replicated anywhere else.

Here is a video of reaching the final meadow of Toog's:

[squiddo]

sounds like a good day with good people. Glad the pins is still bringing joy

[JC w KC redux]

I had to listen closely to the video to see what Claire said.
Pinnacles is not climbing. Pinnacles is a ridiculous obstacle course.
She did not look or sound pleased.
I'm guessing the Flumes was busy?

Did you guys avoid the PO in Toog's Alligator chimney?

I haven't done that route but have done Toog's Terror, Toog's Gallery and the Direct 5.9 finish. I loved the Direct finish.
I should also mention that I climbed all of those before the bolts were replaced (that comment is for Brad  ).

Sounds like you guys had fun.

If you want some climbs that define loose you should check out Pigeon Crack, Shortly Tooloose, Gambling Groove and Are You Inexperienced (new route) on Machete after the closures lift. The moves on the upper sections of all those should give you a good benchmark. I've only climbed the last one (that was enough for me) but the others look hideous and they all enter the same rotten band on Machete to finish. If you want a good scare on some iffy stuff in the interim, I would recommend Buckwheat's Bender on Hummingbird Spire. Not that loose but I would never lead that climb again. 

Nice that you finished on Cool Daze. That is a great climb. I really like Rebecca's Sailing too. Have you done Lichen to Lead? That is actually a pretty cool route and takes you all the way up. There is one kinda bad section somewhere after the first anchor but then you get back into better rock and the headwall on slung knobs is really fun. You sound like you dig the adventure side of Pinns climbing. If you want to climb your salad, check out Thundering Herd and Triple X. Kind of like Easter egg hunts in the moss. 

[briham89]

"Pinnacles is not climbing. Pinnacles is a ridiculous obstacle course."

  

[Zay]

JC,
She wasn't pleased at the time, but I think she came around later. While she remained adamant about Toog's, she admitted to the beauty of the park, and to the gravity of the climbing scene. She's a Granite climber (I, often, am also), used to throwing hands and feet at any tempting feature and applying weight liberally.

Nobody at flumes, in fact we only briefly saw some younger guys hiking around searching for top ropes. They lost their book, so I helped them find the rookie and passion play. I offered to scramble up Osiris for them but they seemed like they wanted to be closer to the car.

I didn't notice any P.O., but I also don't pay much attention since im 99% sure I'm immune. Come to think of it I'm sure it was clear, though running water down the streak made for a great step over up high!

Thanks for the reccomendations/warnings, I've had my eye on Buckwheat for a while... though i can't claim to be a true chossy bad ass; I did once back off one of the 5.8R's at Marmot Wall after finding myself in 30ft groundfall territory and already having pulled half a dozen seemingly-good knobs. Downclimbing that sucker was quite the rush, but I'm learning.

I've done all the flumes routes from Bits n Pieces over to Adams Apple, but next time I'm there's it's all about new things for sure. I do love me some adventure...

Speaking of which, can anyone comment on the giant chimney on Procclamation Pinnacle, the one the Brad recommends a double rack to 4 inches? I spotted it from the lot and was immediately enthused.

Speaking of adventure! After day three at pinns we drove straight to Mariposa, setting us up for a day trip to the valley. A very snowy and wet pile of manure was the highlight of the day. Followed by some sport and offwidth at Pat n Jack.  No choss, but itll do! No climbers in sight!!!

[mungeclimber]

that video finish to Toogs is priceless!

[JC w KC redux]

I didn't notice any P.O., but I also don't pay much attention since im 99% sure I'm immune.

I've heard that before.

I've had my eye on Buckwheat for a while

That one felt R all the way up but the position from the trail just called to me. The old 5.5 route is cool too.

I've done all the flumes routes from Bits n Pieces over to Adams Apple, but next time I'm there's it's all about new things for sure. I do love me some adventure...

After Lichen to Lead take Masters of Mischief to Bolt Bandit for another lap.

Speaking of which, can anyone comment on the giant chimney on Procclamation Pinnacle, the one the Brad recommends a double rack to 4 inches? I spotted it from the lot and was immediately enthused.

Haven't done it but it looks cool.
clink had an adventure on it in his early years.
That one is off limits for the closures - might be fun on a hot day - chimneys are nice and cool  

[Brad Young]

I played Claire's comment for Jim, Tricia and Vicki. Lots of laughs from all of us. I do hope, however, that that's not her true takeaway from the place (she seemed like the type that would like its adventurous nature).

[Brad Young]

Drilling with Larry that day resulted in a face full of dirt and smiles:





As we hiked out we saw J.C. and Jason coming down from The Central Outback: