Author Topic: OT - Expertise Needed Regarding Rappel Anchors In Occasional Heavy Watercourse  (Read 2778 times)

climberdude

  • Mudders
  • **
  • Posts: 156
I realize this is off-topic for Pinnacles, but I need some expert recommendations from people who have experience with canyoneering as well as climbing.  I do not want to be flamed by stupidity on Supidtopo.

I am helping develop a climb that is in a canyon that normally has low water flow, but at times can have high flow (> 200 ft^3/sec) that will go over the belay/rappel anchors.  To be clear, there is also canyoneering going on in this canyon, but the climb is to the side of the waterfalls and normal water flow.  Canyoneers have told me that they use webbing and a rappel ring at rappel locations, but to me it seems stupid to have to replace webbing every time you do the climb (I remember when I had to do this at Pinnacles and hated it).  I want something more permanent.  Canyoneers have told me that they do not use chains because during water flow over the chains, they get abraded sufficiently that they have to be replaced frequently.

Does anyone in this group have suggestions for what to use for anchors that are used for rappelling that occasionally will be subjected to high water flow over them and will not be degraded much by the water flow, i.e., will last many years without the need for replacement?  Would very large chain work?  Just to be clear, this is in a location where very, very few people go and there is a lot of metal junk around, left over from heavy construction in the area, so larger metal items will not be much of an eyesore.  

This is not a place in the Pinnacles - I do not know anywhere in the Pinnacles that can get > 200 ft^3/sec flow.  Thanks.

F4?

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 6172
Stainless? Maybe glue ins?
They are easy...epoxy would keep water out.
I'm not worthy.

mungeclimber

  • PermaBan
  • ***
  • Posts: 6665
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Metolius Rap Hanger?

Mtn Tools may still have the light weight rap hanger too.

Chain seems problematic for abrasion on rock.

On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 5974
    • Mudncrud
I agree chains seems like a bad idea.
Here's to sweat in your eye

JC w KC redux

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 6575
  • my density has brought me to you...

It is not the water so much as the sediment load being transported during these high flow periods that is going to "sandblast" whatever you put there. Nothing is going to hold up long term to that kind of abuse. Maybe spend your hard-earned cash elsewhere? Plenty of other rock out there.   
One wheel shy of normal

climberdude

  • Mudders
  • **
  • Posts: 156
Due to location, sediment load will be very minimal.  Rather, the issue is that anything that can move around during high flow will be continuously banged against rock which will abrade it.  Yeah, plenty of other rock, but trying to find places with no other existing climbs to up up a 16-20 pitch monster are hard to find.

clink

  • Meanderthal
  • ****
  • Posts: 4010

 Use 2@1/2 SS bolts and hangers 12 ft. apart. Wrap the corpse tightly with chain, then wrap with 1" webbing in the counter direction. Secure the webbing and chain on each end to each other and with a double webbing tail to the bolts and back. Cinch. With normal precipitation there should be no identifiable remains.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

climberdude

  • Mudders
  • **
  • Posts: 156
That is good.  I will keep that in mind next time I need to dispose of a corpse.

mynameismud

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 5974
    • Mudncrud
If the rock is soft I would have concerns about placing bolts in a location that get high volumes of water every year or multiple times a year since there will be erosion no matter how good the bolt.
Here's to sweat in your eye

climberdude

  • Mudders
  • **
  • Posts: 156
No, not soft rock.  Bullet hard granite - in fact much harder than most granite I usually climb on.

F4?

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 6172
Shit, go stainless and be done ti

I said Glue-in to mess with you.....as they are much more work.

And Clink knows best!!

I'm not worthy.

climberdude

  • Mudders
  • **
  • Posts: 156
F4, yeah, I have plenty of unused Climbtech Wave glue-ins and have placed them before.  I had not considered them.  Actually, probably only two or three of the rappel points will be occasionally in the water on this route.

mungeclimber

  • PermaBan
  • ***
  • Posts: 6665
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
16-20? Wow!

I know you won’t post location online but do keep me in mind if you need a hand. Sounds rad.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 5974
    • Mudncrud
I agree with glue ins
Here's to sweat in your eye

briham89

  • Mudders
  • **
  • Posts: 233
Quote
I do not want to be flamed by stupidity on Stupidtopo.

Well there goes my afternoon entertainment....

F4?

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 6172
We need pictures....

And a cool site to check out:

https://www.rapbolting.com/


I'm not worthy.