Author Topic: Old original  (Read 3868 times)

djh650

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Old original
« on: November 30, 2018, 08:50:12 AM »
With all the rain, would an ascent 12/2 be out of the question for old original?

Zay

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Re: Old original
« Reply #1 on: November 30, 2018, 10:43:43 AM »
It would be wet for sure. Stay roped up! Maybe wait until later in the day (have you done it before?).

I see thats a Sunday... you cant do Monday?

JC w KC redux

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Re: Old original
« Reply #2 on: November 30, 2018, 11:20:48 AM »

The three 5.5 rated portions should be getting whatever sun there is.
Temps aren't predicted to be high enough for a lot of evap.(55)
Also depends on how comfortable you are on exposed, potentially slimy, sparsely protected (but easy) crud.
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climberdude

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Re: Old original
« Reply #3 on: November 30, 2018, 11:53:51 AM »
While the main parts of the route may dry, I suspect that the descent chimney, which has rappel bolts at the stations, will be wet, slippery, and possibly running water.  I would also very cautious about the fourth class traverse beyond the meadow, which is the last roped section.  This will be very wet, very slippery, and the protection on this horizontal traverse is mostly small bushes that are not very strong.  Also, I think the downclimb/rappel just before arriving to the Middle Tower Notch will be damp or wet.  This is north facing.  I would not down climb it after any moisture and if you rappel it, you must rappel from a single bolt, which is not recommended.

If you had to do this on Sunday, I would suggest doing "Bullseye" to "Derringer" to join "Old Original" start of second pitch.  Then descend "The Hideout" at end of third pitch.  Not as good as the entire "Old Original", but keeps you in the drier sections on Machete Ridge.


JC w KC redux

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Re: Old original
« Reply #4 on: November 30, 2018, 12:03:23 PM »
^^^^
Nice recommendation dude.
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climberdude

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Re: Old original
« Reply #5 on: November 30, 2018, 12:08:21 PM »
The lead bolts on "Bullseye" should be bomber since I replaced them in December 2017.

F4?

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Re: Old original
« Reply #6 on: November 30, 2018, 01:51:49 PM »
Is Old Original open? Below is what Gavin had mentioned back in July.

He mentioned that there was a dedicated biologist watching them....

Quote
Hey gang -

Just a heads-up that climbing advisories have (finally) been lifted for the year.

Note that the mandatory closures at Machete (affecting the southwest, south, and east faces of Machete including Old Original) are still in effect, due to ongoing condor nesting efforts..

Let me know if you have any questions, and thanks for the support!
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climberdude

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Re: Old original
« Reply #7 on: November 30, 2018, 02:30:33 PM »
Paging Gavin regarding Machete Ridge being open to climbing.  I also want to know because I need to patch a bolt hole on the Machete east face.

waldo

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Re: Old original
« Reply #8 on: November 30, 2018, 04:27:52 PM »
I'd stay out of the descent chimney. Out and back from the south is fun, especially if you've gone up via Bullseye/Derringer. A rappel at the first gendarme (The Hideout chute) will get you off painlessly.

mungeclimber

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Re: Old original
« Reply #9 on: November 30, 2018, 04:39:51 PM »
I think Gavin may be out of range to answer this question. Check the thread and site.
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Zay

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Re: Old original
« Reply #10 on: November 30, 2018, 05:19:34 PM »
ive been watching the bird advisoriew, as of like a week ago, everything is open

Gavin

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Re: Old original
« Reply #11 on: November 30, 2018, 05:29:44 PM »
Sorry for the late reply, everyone... I've been on vacation and out of the country for the last month!

There are no climbing closures in effect for the rest of the year. All routes on Machete are open for climbing. I updated the closures thread as well to reflect this.

F4?

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Re: Old original
« Reply #12 on: November 30, 2018, 08:45:06 PM »
Great to hear!

Sorry for the scare, but as Gavin once said....if you happened to stumble into a closed area for the Condors....you'd be seen and busted.

Best Old original decent....2x ropes or 1 rope (I prefer 1 and I am lazy). Back track from the last summit pinnacle to the top of Rock O R Clock.
2x ropes, bam at the bench... then over to the West Face, 1 rap and you are down near Corona.1 Rope and you and your partner get to get close on the mid pitch rap (do-able).

If there was a topo of the route, I'd draw it for you, but then again Crayon drawings don't scan well.

The only dicey part is down climing to the top anchors of Rock O R Clock.

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JC w KC redux

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Re: Old original
« Reply #13 on: December 01, 2018, 07:58:58 AM »
Sorry for the late reply, everyone... I've been on vacation and out of the country for the last month!

There are no climbing closures in effect for the rest of the year. All routes on Machete are open for climbing. I updated the closures thread as well to reflect this.

I got an email from the Condor Crew with the "All Clear" while we were out of town and off the grid and completely spaced on posting when we got home a week later. Am I fired?
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Brad Young

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Re: Old original
« Reply #14 on: December 01, 2018, 09:54:43 AM »

 Am I fired?


Slaves can't be fired, only emancipated. And you're not.

F4?

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Re: Old original
« Reply #15 on: December 01, 2018, 10:34:34 AM »
Them birds are no dummies...I bet they left for Big Sur.
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clink

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Re: Old original
« Reply #16 on: December 02, 2018, 04:20:51 AM »
Quote
With all the rain, would an ascent 12/2 be out of the question for old original?

 When the asphalt starts to dry on the road, some of the rock is dry enough to climb.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

clink

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Re: Old original
« Reply #17 on: December 02, 2018, 04:24:26 AM »
Quote
Slaves can't be fired, only emancipated. And you're not.

 You are anticipated.  :)
Causing trouble when not climbing.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Old original
« Reply #18 on: December 02, 2018, 05:12:56 PM »
You are anticipated.  :)

What did you call me?! :madmax: :incazzato: :frown2: :crazy:
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Zay

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Re: Old original
« Reply #19 on: December 03, 2018, 04:53:42 PM »
for those interested,  old original was totally good to go today (two days after rain).  a hair bit damp in some places, but otherwise all good.

was glad to have roped up for the fourth class traverse on thr descent...