Hey guys,
Ive been really desperate to get some practice removing and replacing bolts at Pinnacles. JC was kind enough to bestow some hands on learning, that guy is like a triple black belt on rebolting. But that was long enough ago that knowledge grows fuzzy without practice. I really want to rebolt Peregrine, I recall the whole first being pro'd by Leepers on Stars. But I want some practice before taking on a route. My schedule is still pretty much all over the place, but now we are in off season and Ive been getting lots of time off. Also just bought hand drill (just the handle, they were out of bits), and a few pitons that i was going to grind out to make tuning forks.
UPDATE I am compiling a list of useful threads that I have found in my quest for knowledge. I will update this list at the journey goes. Any comments/suggestions are expressly welcome
Basic information from Access Fund that details procedures of various bolt removals:
https://www.accessfund.org/learn/for-advocates/managing-fixed-anchors/best-practices-for-bolt-removalConcerning Wedgebolts and their special removal needs:
BUT since power tools are not allowed at pinnacles, special hand tools must be implemented to the same effect...
Homemade puller:
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/109487927/inexpensive-bolt-extractor***Note that Greggor suggests further modifications to the device lateer in the thread.
Homemade spinner:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=9a0oBTF4UFsInstructions for puller:
"here are some instructions on how to make a spinning tool.
-Get a speed wrench off of eBay. You have the choice of 1/2" or 3/8"
socket size, either one will work but 3/8" sockets are a bit cheaper.
Also, you want the shortest overall length you can find. Most come
in 16-18" lengths. Around 12" is best. You can cut it down and put
3/8" flats on the stub to make it as short as possible. If you
can't do that, then just buy the shortest one you can find. Also,
the bearing in the handle might be OK or it might be shot.
-get a universal joint socket. This gives you some play in the setup.
-get a normal 6-point socket to hold the coupler nut. For a 3/8"
coupler nut you need a 9/16" socket. A 6-point socket is preferred
because you are going to have to drill a hole for a set screw in it
and it has more metal than a 12-point.
-3/8" coupler nut. Make sure you get the correct threads for 3/8"
wedge bolts which is coarse threads.
To properly score the cone on the end of the bolt you need to pull
out a bit as you turn the speed wrench. Because of this you need to
secure all the pieces in your chain so they don't just pop out as
you pull. You can do this by drilling holes into each piece while
it is attached in the chain and either use a metal pin or a set
screw.
You also want to come up with some way of putting a stop on the
coupler nut as you screw it onto the bolt. You can either put a
screw near the end of the coupler nut or thread a nut onto the
wedge bolt before you put on the coupler tool and then tighten
the coupler nut and the other nut onto themselves when you have
reached the proper depth.
Make sure you tap the bolt back into the hole before trying to
start to spin it. If it won't spin initially, put a couple of
nuts on the end, tighten them on each other and use a big wrench
to get it to start spinning.
Use an abrasive compound to help score the cone more quickly."
