Climbing after rain

[JC w KC redux]

ive never broke a hold on a day after rain

jinx 

[briham89]

Low expectations....

The secret to happiness....

[JC w KC redux]

I was at C&M the other day and had a rock crack in half. It was wet inside, even though it had been a few days since rain.

What route had the rock crack in half?

Did you get some good climbing in?

[T O Double D]

What route had the rock crack in half?

Did you get some good climbing in?

I got Atomized that day. I was hoping to check out some of your routes, but he had other ideas. We traversed from North to south. Started on Solotero Pina, then despite there being bolts 15’ to the right, we climbed a super choss chimney (where I cracked the rock, and had a large section behind my back crumble...). We avoided bolts until getting to the south formation. To get on top we climbed a 5.7 I think. He did find a bomber placement for the random #2 he accidentally brought along... so yeah, it was an interesting day. Not what I was expecting, but interesting.

[JC w KC redux]

I got Atomized that day. I was hoping to check out some of your routes, then despite there being bolts 15’ to the right, we climbed a super choss chimney (where I cracked the rock, and had a large section behind my back crumble...). We avoided bolts until getting to the south formation. To get on top we climbed a 5.7 I think. He did find a bomber placement for the random #2 he accidentally brought along... so yeah, it was an interesting day. Not what I was expecting, but interesting.

Sounds like an adventure. Those bolts 15 feet right of the chimney are for Squeaky Clean Mud - one of several really fun routes in that corridor. No one wanted to climb that ugly chimney. Not surprised there was loose stuff.

There are a couple nice 5.7's in that last corridor - There were gear placements on both that we used during the FA's for security while drilling. The 5.5 at the top of the corridor turned out really nice too - surprised Adam didn't free solo that.

Are you coming to the MoM weekend? 

[T O Double D]

I’ll definitely get back there one day... my climbing partners are all way better than me, so they usually end up going for harder areas, but those routes seem right up my alley.

We debated soloing, but since it’s Pinnacles Rock and there being bolts it seemed like a truly ridiculous idea.

I was supposed  to be in Red Rock that weekend, but my plans fell through. MoM sounds rad, I’ll talk with the lady and likely go.

[JC w KC redux]

I’ll definitely get back there one day... my climbing partners are all way better than me, so they usually end up going for harder areas, but those routes seem right up my alley.

I was supposed  to be in Red Rock that weekend, but my plans fell through. MoM sounds rad, I’ll talk with the lady and likely go.

Yes - come climb with us. The focus will be having fun!

[John.k.moore]

So, why not restart a thread from 4 years ago? Anyway...since it's supposed to be dry this week and it's not listed specifically that I saw here, should spots like the Citadel and Flumes be OK this coming weekend?

[Brad Young]

After looking at the National Weather Service forecast, I suspect they will be fine. Enough dry days will have passed before this weekend that even the north-facing stuff (both formations you named face north or close to it) should be OK. Maybe damp in places, but mostly Ok.

[John.k.moore]

After looking at the National Weather Service forecast, I suspect they will be fine. Enough dry days will have passed before this weekend that even the north-facing stuff (both formations you named face north or close to it) should be OK. Maybe damp in places, but mostly Ok.

Is the issue just wet spots on the routes making it slick or is it breaking holds? Wet spots just puts me in danger and I can evaluate that...breaking holds is just inconsiderate and messes up the stuff for everyone.

[Brad Young]

Well stated, John.

I meant both. And I might be wrong - temps are pretty cold still which slows the drying process. But if I had stuff I wanted to try in either place, I'd be comfortable on both issues trying it this weekend.

[F4?]

Another issue are routes in the shade or ones that don’t get much shade.
But as Brad said, seeping water will be the main issue.

It should be nice

[waldo]

It's been cold in KC, not above 52 today, and it will freeze for the next several nights. I suspect Flumes won't be welcoming this weekend. Sunshine and moderate climbs may be best until we've had a dry week or two.

[mynameismud]

If you climb on delicate routes right after a rain, they will become more delicate..

[waldo]

If you climb on delicate routes right after a rain, they will become more delicate..

  Amen.  We got .2" in KC. early this morning. I haven't checked Pinnacles yet.

[clink]

 If the rock has a high moisture content and the temp is below freezing, the holds are then frozen in place.

[Gavin]

From here in the park - it's at or below freezing overnight for the next few days, with highs forecast for the low 50s. East-facing walls are drying out but still have a fair bit of wet spots. North-facing walls are more wet and the blue-gray lichen sections are damp / slick.

Everything is covered with frost outside my house in Bear Gulch.

Personally, I would opt for climbing in the sun this weekend, and no need to start early in the morning!

[F4?]

Thanks for the update Gavin!

Yes, the gym has been cold lately. The only plus is when the sun hits you on the upper wall.

[burnsbabe]

Tagging into this discussion, it looks like some rain and maybe snow Friday, and I have the weekend off. I was looking at Crud & Mud as well as possibly Marmot and have been touchy pulling the trigger with the forecast. Thoughts? Maybe Gavin knows best here.

[clink]

 In Gavin We Trust


 You nailed it!