Climbing after rain

[clink]

 
 Climb while you can. In the sun, before it rains, during and after the rain.

[Brad Young]

Since Gandalf is taken, can we call him the Sage of Pinnacles?

[clink]

 Gandalf did appear with his staff and was kind enough to be our ropegun and guide.

 Being ever so curious, like you Brad, I thought of being an Elven maid with mischievous eyes. To do so one can meditate into a vision of the entity you wish to become and ask permission to assume it’s character. All was going quite well with my conceptualization, she beckoned me to herself. Her eyes, deep enchanted pools, drawing me closer, further in. Then in Noal’s voice, she says ‘Sorry buddy, already taken’.

[JC w KC redux]

Tagging into this discussion, it looks like some rain and maybe snow Friday, and I have the weekend off. I was looking at Crud & Mud as well as possibly Marmot and have been touchy pulling the trigger with the forecast. Thoughts? Maybe Gavin knows best here.

Crud and Mud and Marmot are good for shade/hot days. Crud and Mud has way better protected routes (imo) and an easy way to get to a variety of anchors that Marmot does not (if you don't want to lead). It is also an easier (more straightforward) approach. Most of the anchors are not conducive to setting topropes - I'd recommend just belaying from the top and rap a single strand to switch out. You'll pass right by Pioneer Pinnacle on the way up there. It has fun climbs on it too (except Cha-Sam) and easy ways to the top.

[Brad Young]

 Being ever so curious, like you Brad, I thought of being an Elven maid with mischievous eyes. To do so one can meditate into a vision of the entity you wish to become and ask permission to assume it’s character. All was going quite well with my conceptualization, she beckoned me to herself. Her eyes, deep enchanted pools, drawing me closer, further in. Then in Noal’s voice, she says ‘Sorry buddy, already taken’.

^^^

Holy shit, straight out of the late 1960s!

[NOAL]

I have found that when it is really cold and it rains/snows formations that are higher in elevation stay wet especially if there is grass or dirt on top that can retain water.  Everything freezes and does not start to thaw until mid morning and then it starts to seep.

This weekend if I had to choose between the two I would go with Crud and Mud.  With some wind it might be dry enough to climb.  Most all of the routes there are moderates with a lot of solid large lodestones so soggy slimy matrix does not figure into the equation. 

[JC w KC redux]

^^^
Well put.
Pioneer is all bare rock on top. One side is full sun in the morning. I'd recommend Prairie Falcon followed by Imprint.
Just Chute Me and the East Side get full sun. Pretty much everything else is shade or partial shade. Bottom's Up should have some sun and Ashes the Mud and I across from Bottoms Up is a must do. If they are dry - same for Mud Brother** and Mud Diamond***

Excerpt from Brad's correction #35
A proper description of the route East Side should read: East Side 5.2 R  The approach to this route is the same as for the route Just Chute Me. Walk around the south/uphill end of Crud and Mud to a brush free, flat area at the base of the south summit’s east side (well below three short, shallow chutes). Traverse up and right over a rib of rock, past shrubs to a small grassy area at the base of a steep but easy water chute that is 10 feet left of a big left-facing corner. Climb this chute 20 feet to a slabby area below a headwall. Move right below the headwall 15 feet to a bolt at the base of a shoulder of rock (the bolt can be used to make a midway belay to avoid rope drag). Move around to the right (northwest) 15 feet to another bolt before continuing past large knobs rightward into a water chute. Climb the chute 25 feet to a large flat area which is below the true summit of Crud and Mud (knobs can be slung in the chute). A two bolt anchor allows a belay here, after which an easy scramble can be made to the true summit. A 50 foot rappel from the bolts leads to the base of the climb.

[burnsbabe]

We just audibled and called the trip off, sadly. Still, looking to get back to the park sooner rather than later.

[John.k.moore]

I'm hoping Friday doesn't see too much rain. I really want to come down on Saturday; it's legitimately the only Saturday I can come down between now and at least August.

[NOAL]

It's not looking good.

[Brad Young]

I'm hoping Friday doesn't see too much rain. I really want to come down on Saturday; it's legitimately the only Saturday I can come down between now and at least August.

John, it looks like you mis-spelled April?

[clink]

 There is always the arch at the base of Machete. A little campfire of unused tp and crumpled notes from Mountain Project adds ambiance.

[John.k.moore]

John, it looks like you mis-spelled April?

Nope. August. I deploy for ~4 months starting in early April. So, August when, of course, the park is a furnace. Meaning, realistically, late-September or October. There might be a few weekdays I could make it down in March but I can't really plan those out, so how many people are really able to climb when I'm posting on Facebook or Mountain Project at 7pm saying "Hey, who wants to climb Pinnacles tomorrow? I'll pick you up at 5am."

Also, in a hilarious comedy of things, my son wants to go to Yosemite for his birthday. He'll likely want to climb. However, since I don't climb trad and he probably can't climb harder than like 5.3 outdoors, my first climbing in Yosemite, the place with 3,000 feet tall walls, is going to be bouldering.

[John.k.moore]

How much rain/snow did the park get today? We got less than expected in the Bay today, or at least it went on for less time than expected.

[Brad Young]

John, the Useful Information sticky thread includes a link to the National Weather Service for Pinnacles weather. Look on this page, currently the third thread down:

http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?board=1.0

According to this (look at 3 day history), the Park got 1.02 inches of rain in the last 24 hours. That's pretty wet.

[John.k.moore]

John, the Useful Information sticky thread includes a link to the National Weather Service for Pinnacles weather. Look on this page, currently the third thread down:

http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?board=1.0

According to this (look at 3 day history), the Park got 1.02 inches of rain in the last 24 hours. That's pretty wet.

You know, I had a job from 2014 to 2018 that required me to have the NWS site up all the time. In 4 years of looking at that NWS site, legitimately looked at it at least 15,000 times, and I didn't realize until right now that there's a 3 day history link on that page. In fact, I'd be reasonably wealthy if I'd gotten paid for every time I've said "why is there no place to look up weather history?" I've probably looked at that exact NWS page for Pinnacles 25 times in the last 2-3 days, never saw the 3 day history link. Always learning new things...

[Brad Young]

Wow, glad I could help. Usually J.C. gets to posting helpful tidbits like that before anyone else.

[looks easy from here]

John, the Useful Information sticky thread includes a link to the National Weather Service for Pinnacles weather. Look on this page, currently the third thread down:

http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?board=1.0

According to this (look at 3 day history), the Park got 1.02 inches of rain in the last 24 hours. That's pretty wet.

Does anyone know where the weather station is? I was on top of the Western Front  at 1:00 on Tuesday and the wind felt like a lot more than 14 mph there.

[waldo]

It snowed on the Chalone Peaks last night, down past the 2,000' level on the SW slopes.

[waldo]

P.S. Those of you who are inclined, bring your axes.