Climbing after rain

[T O Double D]

I called the park service and the person I spoke with didn’t seem to know, but said rain doesn’t affect the rock. I’ve heard conflicting opinions on mountain project as well.  So what say the all mighty Masters of Mud? Does rain weaken the already fragile Pinnacles Rock? If so how long to wait before climbing?

[JC w KC redux]

Opinions vary.
I like to wait a couple days depending on temps and sun conditions. Not much drying with these cool temps unless the route is in direct sun. Some people climb the rock when it is wet and freezing cold. That is the short answer.

A longer answer is available if you'd like 

[mynameismud]

The rain definitely affects the rock.  Some of this is route dependent since the quality of the rock at the Pinnacles is variable.  Easier routes with bigger holds or that are lower angle are less affected.  But, hard routes with small holds or any route with delicate holds are a concern. 

[briham89]

Is your question more related to durability / breaking? Like more of a sandstone type question? Meaning DON'T climb sandstone (or in this case Pinns rock) after it rains because it is likely to break?

[F4?]

When there has been so much rain..many of the chutes are creeks.

So I would say drainage is the main issue with the water draining even a few days after rains like we have had.

That said, on hard routes, stay off until there dry, because who wants to be that guy that breaks a hold.

[T O Double D]

Is your question more related to durability / breaking? Like more of a sandstone type question? Meaning DON'T climb sandstone (or in this case Pinns rock) after it rains because it is likely to break?

Yes I’ve been wondering if rain weakens the rock and if we should stay off it. My own obersvations lead me to believe routes on the harder rock at Pinnacles aren’t affected, but that routes with a tendency towards breakage get weaker.

[clink]

 If you see dry patches of asphalt on the roads, you're good to climb.

[JC w KC redux]

If you see dry patches of asphalt on the roads, you're good to climb.

There is no simple answer (unless you are a Meanderthal). 
The question is very route and area dependent. If you have specific routes or areas in mind it would help narrow the scope.
Fragility is related to the hardness of the matrix (highly variable) and how deeply embedded the cobbles are (if the holds are cobbles).
Much of the rock is already fragile and the porous nature of the matrix adds another dimension of weakness when it is saturated. Water is the major weathering factor at Pinnacles (chemical disintegration). Ironically, percolating water can also redistribute the minerals in the rock and eventually cause it to get harder. 

In general, if you're climbing something relatively clean that gets some sun, is well protected and on good rock, I'd say okay.





If you've got your eye on something with a serious adventure factor and virtually no pro (like this), I'd say wait a few months.

[F4?]

Say does pee weaken the rock??

[JC w KC redux]

Say does pee weaken the rock??

Yes. 

[F4?]

Knew it!!

That’s why mr muds routes are so hard, he must be pissing on his routes.

[clink]

 So easy, a Meanderthal could do it.

[mungeclimber]

Do a new FA route then if it breaks no can cry about it. It was meant to come off.

In fact all FAs should only be done in the rain to make sure you are only left with ‘mother’ stone.

[JC w KC redux]

Do a new FA route then if it breaks no can cry about it. It was meant to come off.

In fact all FAs should only be done in the rain to make sure you are only left with ‘mother’ stone.

I understand now why you were permanently banned 

[Gavin]

Just echoing other folks in their assessment of climbing after rain at Pinnacles - and yes, I work at the park and climb!

I usually feel like areas that get hit by a lot of sun on higher temp days, and that don't have water chutes / mossy rock, are fine to climb on within a couple days after the rain. For example, I regularly climb at Discovery Wall and Monolith within a couple days of rain events (and plan to do so tomorrow). Those areas benefit from steep, east facing walls, too - they are hit by a lot of sun, and a lot of our rain pushes in from the west, so those walls are more protected from getting really soaked.

I think JC's note about mossy walls is important, and any routes with a lot of lichen-covered rock can be quite slick for days after the rain. There were a couple of fools climbing at Lava Falls on Balconies last week, and I don't know what they were thinking - not only is the area part of the Balconies raptor closure, but those water chutes are running with water and would be dangerous to climb right now.

[clink]

Wasn't me.

 

[clink]

 May have been Mud doing part of his annual bathing ritual. Long leader fall through thick wet moss for deep cleansing and skin exfoliation.

[mynameismud]

wasn't me, I was busy cleaning the toilets.

[NOAL]

Wet lodestones=

[F4?]

Not me, I am in Florida.

Mungie???