Author Topic: Spring time in the Sierra  (Read 4155 times)

Jim

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Spring time in the Sierra
« on: May 04, 2019, 05:06:09 PM »
It's so beautiful!

Last week (April 22) Wendy's cousin was over with a friend for three days of spring skiing at Mammoth Mountain.  Since they were on their way home after Wednesday (Washington for Neil and SJ for Rob) I was able to easily convince my brother on Thursday to head up out back on Wheeler Crest for a new FA we scoped a week or two earlier.  He has not been climbing much so I got the pleasure of taking the sharp end.

The route starts just right of the dark intrusion and we were able to get one and a half pitches in the first day.


P1 goes up excellent white granite with swirly diorite.  Starts with a stout mantle, then up a thin crack (5.10c) and a right arching crack (5 bolts and gear) to a belay at 35 meters.

Moving through the overhang

Almost to the arching crack


We went back again on Tuesday to finish the remaining pitches and unfortunately I was too focused on the sharp end to take any photos.  But I'll be back there again soon for pictures - it was so good!

Yet to be named
P1 5.10c 5 bolts 35m to two bolt ring anchor
P2 5.10a 5 bolts 33m to two bolt ring anchor
P3 5.10a 6 bolts 34m to two bolt ring anchor
P4 5.5 gear to two bolt ring anchor
rack single cams .1 to 2" plus extra .4 and .5 cam, plus a small tapered stopper or two

squiddo

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Re: Spring time in the Sierra
« Reply #1 on: May 04, 2019, 05:09:35 PM »
That’s awesome. Fun. How was the approach?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

Jim

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Re: Spring time in the Sierra
« Reply #2 on: May 04, 2019, 05:13:02 PM »
...the initial crack is flaring and not gear worthy

Jim

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Re: Spring time in the Sierra
« Reply #3 on: May 04, 2019, 05:17:17 PM »
Ten minute drive from the house with an hour of hiking and 1365' gain in 1.75 miles.  Quite nice with the snow runoff in the ravines.  There's a six pitch 11a we did last year around the left side of the formation that is also quite excellent.

squiddo

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Re: Spring time in the Sierra
« Reply #4 on: May 04, 2019, 05:54:23 PM »
Sounds like a perfect approach to me!
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

F4?

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Re: Spring time in the Sierra
« Reply #5 on: May 04, 2019, 08:04:35 PM »
Nice!!!
I'm not worthy.

mungeclimber

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Re: Spring time in the Sierra
« Reply #6 on: May 04, 2019, 08:37:12 PM »
Nice!
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

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Re: Spring time in the Sierra
« Reply #7 on: May 04, 2019, 09:27:46 PM »
Sweet
Here's to sweat in your eye

briham89

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Re: Spring time in the Sierra
« Reply #8 on: May 05, 2019, 03:50:22 PM »
Cool!

F4?

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Re: Spring time in the Sierra
« Reply #9 on: May 05, 2019, 08:21:59 PM »
Burp!

Spring only crag?
I'm not worthy.

clink

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Re: Spring time in the Sierra
« Reply #10 on: May 06, 2019, 05:57:02 AM »

 Hi Jim, good to see that you are still getting the "new" done. thanks for sharing this.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

F4?

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Re: Spring time in the Sierra
« Reply #11 on: May 06, 2019, 03:53:42 PM »
Now Jim, how are the bolts?
Shorties (some of use larger boned folks get nervous about them short bolts)?
Clipping stances?


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Jim

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Re: Spring time in the Sierra
« Reply #12 on: May 06, 2019, 08:38:49 PM »
Quote
Spring only crag?

Sept-May depending on temps

Quote
... how are the bolts?
Shorties (some of use larger boned folks get nervous about them short bolts)?
Clipping stances?

Anchor bolts are 3/8x 3 or 3 3/4”, protection bolts are 3/8x 3”.  The on lead routing is an anomaly over here but I can’t bring myself to do that top down stuff that is so prevalent these days.

F4?

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Re: Spring time in the Sierra
« Reply #13 on: May 06, 2019, 09:24:12 PM »
Nice!

I heard mr mud is keep to try top down routing.

I'm not worthy.

mynameismud

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Re: Spring time in the Sierra
« Reply #14 on: May 07, 2019, 07:10:21 AM »
Nice!

I heard mr mud is keep to try top down routing.


DIE
Here's to sweat in your eye

Brad Young

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Re: Spring time in the Sierra
« Reply #15 on: May 07, 2019, 12:21:56 PM »
Very, very nice looking. I suppose you'll be expecting me to drag my butt up there with you "one of these days?"

Kind of amazing that that kind of rock still remains untouched.

briham89

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Re: Spring time in the Sierra
« Reply #16 on: May 07, 2019, 03:21:12 PM »
Quote
The on lead routing is an anomaly over here but I can’t bring myself to do that top down stuff that is so prevalent these days.

 ;D  :thumbup:

There is nothing worse than a poor top down job. I can't think of much I dislike more in climbing.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Spring time in the Sierra
« Reply #17 on: May 07, 2019, 05:32:11 PM »
Very, very nice looking.
Kind of amazing that that kind of rock still remains untouched.

I want to see some pictures of the "swirly" diorite. 
Based on that intrusion I suspect metamorphism with wavy gravy foliations.
Flower Power dude  :yesnod: :thumbup: :lol:
One wheel shy of normal

F4?

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Re: Spring time in the Sierra
« Reply #18 on: May 07, 2019, 05:42:43 PM »
I want to see where gold is!!!
The real stuff.

J.C., I M taking the boys to roaring camp outside of Jackson to gold mine for a week.
Washing rocks for a week will be nice.

Back to Jim’s new route thread!!!!
I'm not worthy.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Spring time in the Sierra
« Reply #19 on: May 07, 2019, 07:31:43 PM »
I want to see where gold is!!!
The real stuff.

J.C., I M taking the boys to roaring camp outside of Jackson to gold mine for a week.
Washing rocks for a week will be nice.

Back to Jim’s new route thread!!!!

Sounds like fun.
Hope you guys hit pay dirt!
One wheel shy of normal