Author Topic: Climbing up North (Read 18202 times)

mynameismud · « **on:** June 16, 2019, 09:13:04 AM »

So I got my first 10d lead. Not a true on sight since I had seen someone lead it right before I did the lead. But, no falls first try. That felt good. First time I have done that in a long time. Got up a 12a with a couple of hangs.

Have actually been getting out once a week or so. A couple from the Bay Area moved up here and I have been climbing with them. Ales is very strong and has been consistently on sighting 12a and occasionally 12b. Watched him get a steep 12c on his third try. So, basically I have a rope gun and I spend the day getting trashed on 12's and hard 11's. At the end of the day when he is burnt I get on a couple of 10's or an easy 11.

Yesterdays 10d was not steep so it was not dependent on my blown out forearms. I just had to focus on my footwork and work my way through it. It was an 8:00 AM to 9:00 PM day. Ales got shutdown on a hard, sustained 12b so we should be back to this area. When it come to local crags this is my favorite area so far. It is about a 50 minute hike but there are no crowds and the rock is good.

The local crags around here can get crazy crowded and dogging routes is the norm. It is common to see people climb bolt to bolt. It is also common to see queues for climbs and people save spots in the queues. Different I suppose but whatever works. Happy to have found a good crag without a lot of people. Many of the routes had no signs of chalk. The four star 10d we got on was chalk less.

Brad Young · « **Reply #1 on:** June 16, 2019, 09:23:37 AM »

Wow, an old dog learning new tricks? Not really. Maybe better call it relearning old tricks?

clink · « **Reply #2 on:** June 16, 2019, 12:47:59 PM »

More like digging up and gnawing on old bones

clink · « **Reply #3 on:** June 16, 2019, 02:29:53 PM »

Upon further thought, instead of bones, carcasses fits better.

Eminent Sandbaggerrie

briham89 · « **Reply #4 on:** June 16, 2019, 07:04:14 PM »

What is your local crag?

mynameismud · « **Reply #5 on:** June 17, 2019, 07:58:07 AM »

Locally they are referred to as The Exits. It is a collection of crags, Little Mount Si is off of Exit 32 and off of Exit 38 their are crags scattered around on both sides of the Freeway. Exit 32 climbing is about 10 minutes off of the freeway, Exit 38 is a few hundred yards from the freeway.

I think carcass is fairly accurate. Hoping to get back to where I can lead 11's with some level of confidence again.

mudworm · « **Reply #6 on:** June 17, 2019, 12:19:49 PM »

One way to lead an 11 with confidence is you misremember its rating and sandbag yourself. Yesterday, I led Waverly Wafer, thinking it was 10b, to get to the rappel anchor on top. If I had remembered the rating correctly, I would have elected to do the dicey down climb to get out.

I finally led Generator Crack (always TR'ed it prior) helping my partner break in his shiny brand new Big Bros, green and blue. Of course, the blue one fell out on its own later on.

Once upon a time, Ales was my rope gun at Gold Wall (and his wife was my gym partner). Sad to see them move, but glad to hand them to you.

That also means that currently, my rope gun position is vacant. If anyone would like to fill it without pay, please let me know.

mynameismud · « **Reply #7 on:** June 18, 2019, 08:58:49 AM »

Waverly Wafer is 5.10 : )
Never believe SuperTopo, especially since it is officially dead.

Happy Birthday!!!

mudworm · « **Reply #8 on:** June 18, 2019, 11:40:21 AM »

Quote from: mynameismud on June 18, 2019, 08:58:49 AM

Waverly Wafer is 5.10 : )

Actually, I won’t argue with that. There are plenty 10’s in the Valley that are just as hard and even harder.

Quote from: mynameismud on June 18, 2019, 08:58:49 AM

Happy Birthday!!!

Thanks! Other than playing hooky today, I pretty much want to ignore it. I’m catching up with you more experienced folks fast .

Ok, I’m deleting the other Bday thread feeling a bit embarrassed to be called out. Today is my day, so I’m allowed to abuse my power!

mynameismud · « **Reply #9 on:** June 18, 2019, 12:47:09 PM »

Quote from: mudworm on June 18, 2019, 11:40:21 AM

Actually, I won’t argue with that. There are plenty 10’s in the Valley that are just as hard and even harder.

Thanks! Other than playing hooky today, I pretty much want to ignore it. I’m catching up with you more experienced folks fast .

Ok, I’m deleting the other Bday thread feeling a bit embarrassed to be called out. Today is my day, so I’m allowed to abuse my power!

If you want to catch up with the folks here, you have a long way to go. Probably not the most judicious decision. It is a rather broken down slow moving crowd.

You are always allowed to abuse your power.

clink · « **Reply #10 on:** June 18, 2019, 03:27:35 PM »

I resemble those remarks

mudworm · « **Reply #11 on:** June 18, 2019, 07:56:09 PM »

Quote from: mynameismud on June 18, 2019, 08:58:49 AM

Never believe SuperTopo, especially since it is officially dead.

Oh, BTW, guess what, these days, almost nobody looks at Supertopo any more. Mountain Project is where people go for ratings (consensus) these days. I bet that's the case with up north as well?

As far as Yosemite is concerned, the Sloan book is most commonly referenced (for topos).

mynameismud · « **Reply #12 on:** June 19, 2019, 09:23:38 AM »

From what I am hearing from the crowds at the base of the climbs it is mostly the local guidebook but I do hear people mention Mountain Project. I am not a good reference point. I think I am mostly out of touch, I was at the base of a climb a couple weeks ago and heard three acronyms/references and I did not really know what any of them were. I am fairly sure a PAS is a Personal Attachment System, when I said dog draw people looked around like I was swearing.

mynameismud · « **Reply #13 on:** June 19, 2019, 09:24:20 AM »

Quote from: mudworm on June 18, 2019, 07:56:09 PM

As far as Yosemite is concerned, the Sloan book is most commonly referenced (for topos).

Does he rate soft like the SuperTopo books?

mudworm · « **Reply #14 on:** June 19, 2019, 09:29:31 AM »

Quote from: mynameismud on June 19, 2019, 09:23:38 AM

I am fairly sure a PAS is a Personal Attachment System...

Not Personal Attack System?

Quote from: mynameismud on June 19, 2019, 09:24:20 AM

Does he rate soft like the SuperTopo books?

It depends. In my current climbing state, ALL his ratings feel stiff.

mynameismud · « **Reply #15 on:** June 19, 2019, 02:29:07 PM »

Quote from: mudworm on June 19, 2019, 09:29:31 AM

Not Personal Attack System?

I like that better. It could be used to clear out the crags.

mynameismud · « **Reply #16 on:** June 24, 2019, 08:53:59 AM »

comment to me this week,
Those moves would be hard for women, or people, like you.

I got spanked hard on 5.9 this weekend.

On a side note when we got to the base of the crag the two guys there asked if we saw the naked guy. We replied no, they replied oh guess he was done. They then proceed to tell the story of the naked guy masturbating on the side of the approach trail. He did not stop or move as they passed on by.

Washington is weird.

mynameismud · « **Reply #17 on:** June 24, 2019, 09:08:32 AM »

For full disclosure, I full on yarded on gear, on a 5.9. Have not done that in decades. It was embarrassing, it was bad, it was really bad.

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #18 on:** June 24, 2019, 10:26:53 AM »

Quote from: mynameismud on June 24, 2019, 09:08:32 AM

it was bad, it was really bad.

Bad Mud!...Bad!...Bad Mud!

mynameismud · « **Reply #19 on:** June 24, 2019, 01:15:17 PM »

Definitely, cuz I came home and peed on the carpet.

News:

Author Topic: Climbing up North (Read 18202 times)