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Author Topic: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle  (Read 453 times)
BAP
Lichen It
****
Posts: 46


« Reply #40 on: November 15, 2019, 01:21:37 PM »

Thank you.
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mynameismud
unworthy

Posts: 5539


WWW
« Reply #41 on: November 15, 2019, 01:49:49 PM »

I think this is the stuff.  I also comes in gel and as wipes.  It is also possible to purchase by the gallon which might be helpful.

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Here's to sweat in your eye
waldo
Mudders
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Posts: 549


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« Reply #42 on: November 15, 2019, 06:08:02 PM »

With an imagination like Waldo's, it's just love and anticipation of the next segment of a story to hear, write or tell, (and/or paint on a cave wall).

Clink, I feel a P.O. story coming on, maybe something like the BLOB.

I belayed Jack while he drilled the first bolt. It took hours. He could only get into a stemming stance, hit the drill half a dozen times and then come down. Tough stuff. He was knackered after bolt two. Sam got the FA lead.
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F4?
unworthy

Posts: 5425



« Reply #43 on: November 15, 2019, 07:25:32 PM »

Rule of thumb was if spread to face...Dr visit.

Now after multiple episodes, an advise nurse asked...
Well have you washed your bedding and all clothes ?

Heal up!!!
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I'm not worthy.
Brad Young
Grand Master
***
Posts: 5494


« Reply #44 on: November 15, 2019, 09:38:16 PM »

Quote

I belayed Jack while he drilled the first bolt. It took hours. He could only get into a stemming stance, hit the drill half a dozen times and then come down. Tough stuff. He was knackered after bolt two. Sam got the FA lead.


Bob,

I remembered your story when we were out there. Especially the part about him having three fingers on a hold, and one finger and a thumb to hold the drill. I got a photo (the hold is perfect for those three fingers!):



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JC w KC redux
AgentOrange
*
Posts: 5077


my density has brought me to you...


« Reply #45 on: November 16, 2019, 07:41:25 AM »

^^^
That looks like a smallish stud on an SMC stainless hanger w slight patina.
What size and type are the bolts?
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Brad Young
Grand Master
***
Posts: 5494


« Reply #46 on: November 16, 2019, 09:15:43 AM »


^^^
That looks like a smallish stud on an SMC stainless hanger w slight patina.
What size and type are the bolts?


All correct. It was hard to get close enough to it to get a great photo, so that one is blown up and a little pixilated (it's actually the second bolt).

It looked to me like a 1/4 inch stud bolt with a nut.

The first bolt, placed from the start boulder to protect the moves out over space, was a 3/8 inch Rawl.

But the hold to this bolt's immediate left just looks custom-made for three fingers (good rock too).

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JC w KC redux
AgentOrange
*
Posts: 5077


my density has brought me to you...


« Reply #47 on: November 16, 2019, 09:33:14 AM »

All correct. It was hard to get close enough to it to get a great photo, so that one is blown up and a little pixilated (it's actually the second bolt).
It looked to me like a 1/4 inch stud bolt with a nut.

The first bolt, placed from the start boulder to protect the moves out over space, was a 3/8 inch Rawl.

But the hold to this bolt's immediate left just looks custom-made for three fingers (good rock too).

That is weird and also a bummer that there is a mix. I don't usually see that except on rare occasions but I have seen it on a few of Jack's routes. I am a bit disturbed that they were still placing that tiny stuff in the early 90's (date of the FA). I think Jack may have done that from desperate stances where a smaller and shallower hole could be drilled quicker.   

waldo may be able to shed some more light.
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Brad Young
Grand Master
***
Posts: 5494


« Reply #48 on: November 16, 2019, 09:40:00 AM »


...I think Jack may have done that from desperate stances where a smaller and shallower hole could be drilled quicker.   


I think that this is exactly the case. From memory, Bob told me that it took Jack 3 1/2 hours to drill that bolt!

Jim used to do the same thing sometimes (using 1/4 bolts in desperate stances). He's replaced most of these by now, however.
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JC w KC redux
AgentOrange
*
Posts: 5077


my density has brought me to you...


« Reply #49 on: November 16, 2019, 11:36:46 AM »

Prednisone Pinnacle?  For real?

Yes, it's real. I did these routes last time I got that evil stuff and had to take steroids.

294.4  Step Down Regimen  5.2  This is one of two routes on the uphill side of Prednisone Pinnacle.  Prednisone is located 100 feet uphill (southeast) from Hidden Pinnacle, near the top of the ridge separating Hanging Valley from Frog Canyon. Its downhill side is quite tall (about 65 feet). Step Down Regimen ascends the left (southwest) side of the 20 foot high, uphill face of the pinnacle.  Move left on a ledge several feet before moving up over a series of small “steps” to the summit and a two-bolt anchor.  Gear:  1 ˝ to 2 ˝ inches.  FA Party:  John Cook.   FA Date:  February 17, 2016. 

294.5  All Jacked Up  5.5  Climb Prednisone Pinnacle’s 20 foot high uphill face.  A short, class four groove leads to a shoulder.  One bolt protects moves from there to the summit and a two-bolt anchor (shared with Step Down Regimen).  FA Party:  John Cook and Kathy Cook.   FA Date:  February 21, 2016. 
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waldo
Mudders
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Posts: 549


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« Reply #50 on: November 16, 2019, 12:19:34 PM »

That is weird and also a bummer that there is a mix. I don't usually see that except on rare occasions but I have seen it on a few of Jack's routes. I am a bit disturbed that they were still placing that tiny stuff in the early 90's (date of the FA). I think Jack may have done that from desperate stances where a smaller and shallower hole could be drilled quicker.   

waldo may be able to shed some more light.
  JC, Brad, you're exactly right. Jack went small and short on tough stances, only on those. The bolt might be an exotic. He had a supply of 5/16 buttonheads. I forgot exactly what he used, however. We only got around to replacing a couple of those babies. We must have intuited that you'd be coming along, JC.
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clink
unworthy

Posts: 3177


« Reply #51 on: November 16, 2019, 10:18:19 PM »

Quote
That looks like a smallish stud

 Calling a Spade a Spade?

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Causing trouble when not climbing.
clink
unworthy

Posts: 3177


« Reply #52 on: November 16, 2019, 10:31:05 PM »

Quote
Clink, I feel a P.O. story coming on, maybe something like the BLOB.

 As seen in a photo up thread, when JC gets PO bad, he becomes Billy Blob Thornton. Smiley
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Causing trouble when not climbing.
JC w KC redux
AgentOrange
*
Posts: 5077


my density has brought me to you...


« Reply #53 on: November 17, 2019, 07:58:47 PM »

Calling a Spade a Spade?

Needs more bronzer.
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