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Author Topic: Hand drilling technique  (Read 303 times)
NOAL
Mudders
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Posts: 691



« Reply #20 on: February 13, 2020, 04:50:56 PM »

Quote
If you let the bit bounce a little, it can puff out some of the dust. ml Many holes I blow out only the once at 3/4 depth.

I do the same.  The flutes on a drill bit are designed to draw material out.  If you drill past where the flutes end this will become more obvious because it gets harder to drill when the dust cannot get out.

Amazing how much you guys are into drilling holes.  I get enough of that at work everyday. For me placing bolts on routes is kind of like a necessary evil. Not very fascinating but hey to each his own.... 
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JC w KC redux
AgentOrange
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Posts: 4998


my density has brought me to you...


« Reply #21 on: February 13, 2020, 07:06:00 PM »

JC, go over.

I did today while doing battle with a hamster.

the Park should be handing out JC bobbleheads.

 Laugh Out Loud
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clink
unworthy

Posts: 3109


« Reply #22 on: February 13, 2020, 07:52:42 PM »

Quote
For me placing bolts on routes is kind of like a necessary evil.

 Yes, but crack climbing is only so interesting. (I may have to quote myself on this one.)

  The rock's varying consistency at Pinns makes for a more interesting climbing and bolting experience. Is this comparable to snow or ice climbing in any way?

 
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Causing trouble when not climbing.
JC w KC redux
AgentOrange
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Posts: 4998


my density has brought me to you...


« Reply #23 on: February 13, 2020, 08:17:23 PM »

Yes, but crack climbing is only so interesting. (I may have to quote myself on this one.)

  The rock's varying consistency at Pinns makes for a more interesting climbing and bolting experience. Is this comparable to snow or ice climbing in any way?

Geez. Mind wander much?  Out Prrr

JC, go over.

I did today while doing battle with a hamster.

Not only did I go over - I went upside down - ended up dangling in Happy Baby yoga pose  Yikes Smile Wink Grin Crazy
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clink
unworthy

Posts: 3109


« Reply #24 on: February 13, 2020, 08:23:21 PM »

Quote
Geez. Mind wander much? Out Prrr

Yin yank, yep
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Causing trouble when not climbing.
Brad Young
Grand Master
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Posts: 5439


« Reply #25 on: February 13, 2020, 08:27:30 PM »


I did today while doing battle with a hamster.


You trying 5.11s now? (Wouldn't surprise me, you're climbing very well these days.)
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JC w KC redux
AgentOrange
*
Posts: 4998


my density has brought me to you...


« Reply #26 on: February 13, 2020, 08:41:58 PM »

You trying 5.11s now? (Wouldn't surprise me, you're climbing very well these days.)

Negatory.
Leader Fall on Battle Hamster.
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Brad Young
Grand Master
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Posts: 5439


« Reply #27 on: February 13, 2020, 08:52:55 PM »


Negatory.
Leader Fall on Battle Hamster.


Damn, falling on gear at Pinnacles! Very proud, although, I suspect, unintended. Balls to the wall, dude (assuming that they're still intact).
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NOAL
Mudders
**
Posts: 691



« Reply #28 on: February 13, 2020, 09:38:55 PM »

Quote
I went upside down

Whoa.  Yikes
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Gavin
Moderator
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Posts: 358



WWW
« Reply #29 on: February 14, 2020, 08:27:34 AM »

Yeah, glad to hear you made it through safely, JC. i've had two inverted falls at Pinnacles - on Feed The Beast and White Punks On Rope - and both experiences were very unnerving.
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clink
unworthy

Posts: 3109


« Reply #30 on: February 14, 2020, 09:35:41 AM »


 JC, get a chest harness, you have no proper hips for inverted fall harness tethering.
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Causing trouble when not climbing.
briham89
Mudders
**
Posts: 162


« Reply #31 on: February 14, 2020, 09:53:24 AM »

Quote
Amazing how much you guys are into drilling holes.

You have it backwards....drilling holes is shitty. So learning if there are better / more efficient ways to do it is beneficial.
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NOAL
Mudders
**
Posts: 691



« Reply #32 on: February 14, 2020, 05:58:16 PM »

I think in general you are overthinking things.  The reason that some people like Clink can drill holes so quickly is because he has spent years in his profession swinging a hammer. He is extremely accurate in transferring energy from the hammer to the drillbit.

It also helps to be able to swing a hammer for long periods without resting which is achieved through mileage.  Meh threads to replace meh threads is well....meh.

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F4?
unworthy

Posts: 5362



« Reply #33 on: February 14, 2020, 08:40:49 PM »

Well Mr Jim has a few other tricks.

I canít say as it would spoil the fun.

I still prefer Mr Bulldog in areas where allowed.
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I'm not worthy.
JC w KC redux
AgentOrange
*
Posts: 4998


my density has brought me to you...


« Reply #34 on: February 15, 2020, 08:22:49 AM »

Yeah, glad to hear you made it through safely, JC. i've had two inverted falls at Pinnacles - on Feed The Beast and White Punks On Rope - and both experiences were very unnerving.

Thanks dude. It kinda flipped me out (sorry...old 70's slang).

JC, get a chest harness, you have no proper hips for inverted fall harness tethering.

You haven't seen my waist lately.
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JC w KC redux
AgentOrange
*
Posts: 4998


my density has brought me to you...


« Reply #35 on: February 15, 2020, 08:25:34 AM »

I think in general you are overthinking things.  The reason that some people like Clink can drill holes so quickly is because he has spent years in his profession swinging a hammer. He is extremely accurate in transferring energy from the hammer to the drillbit.

It also helps to be able to swing a hammer for long periods without resting which is achieved through mileage.  

I talked to a couple Brits at the Scout Peak overlook and they would say this is spot on.

I think it may also be related to his meanderthalism.
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briham89
Mudders
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Posts: 162


« Reply #36 on: February 15, 2020, 11:18:59 AM »

I'm not asking the question because I think a technique change will allow we to drill as fast as Clink....

I am curious about different approaches though. I do think different techniques will yield different results. So I plan on trying a few to see.

Carry on with talking about poop then
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JC w KC redux
AgentOrange
*
Posts: 4998


my density has brought me to you...


« Reply #37 on: February 15, 2020, 11:33:43 AM »

I'm not asking the question because I think a technique change will allow we to drill as fast as Clink....

I am curious about different approaches though. I do think different techniques will yield different results. So I plan on trying a few to see.

I think everyone develops and evolves their own style. clink, Gavin, Noal and I have pretty similar styles. For me it's about finding just the right tapping force to keep the drill turning as I tap. The rock is so variable that it makes that part tricky and sometimes aggravating. There is nothing worse than having to pull the drill out to get it to turn. I think the other important thing is to pick the best rock you can find, do a good job surfacing and if placing wedges - overdrill them to allow an easy replacement at some future date when we've long turned to dust.
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clink
unworthy

Posts: 3109


« Reply #38 on: February 16, 2020, 12:18:26 PM »

 Hammering nails took a while for me. I was not a natural. My first routes preceded my entering the trade and I sucked at hammering. My difficulty placing bolts continued in later years, possibly from wailing too hard with the hammer. I broke some bits, two at belay anchors.
 Climbing with Waldo and attempting over the better part of two outings to get a small section of a route furthered on stance, made me start to modify technique, this was again the case later, climbing with Aaron and the gas tube route.
 Bolting is a necessary evil. Best to make them good. I have taken steps to reduce my carbon steel footprint.(I found a reliable SS dealer in Rio)
 Disclaimer; the bolts on Prairie Home Companion's first pitch should not be trusted do to their age now and mine at the time of placement.
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Causing trouble when not climbing.
JC w KC redux
AgentOrange
*
Posts: 4998


my density has brought me to you...


« Reply #39 on: February 16, 2020, 07:43:02 PM »

Disclaimer; the bolts on Prairie Home Companion's first pitch should not be trusted do to their age now and mine at the time of placement.

Then get yer butt out there and replace them!  Out Ciappa
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