Author Topic: Good or Fair? (Read 4285 times)

Atomizer · « **on:** March 11, 2020, 06:48:13 PM »

I'm too intimidated to dig into all the new route threads that are 30 or 40 pages deep. What are new areas with good routes? Preferably routes in the 5.9-5.11 range that are long and engaging. Not interested in anything under fifty feet. Thanks a bunch in advance for saving me.

mynameismud · « **Reply #1 on:** March 11, 2020, 07:00:25 PM »

The stuff at Voyeur Wall is over 50 and is a mix of grades

clink · « **Reply #2 on:** March 11, 2020, 07:34:41 PM »

Patagonia, but bring an umbrella.

Goat Rock, but may be closed

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #3 on:** March 11, 2020, 07:49:57 PM »

2nd that on Goat Rock - not closed.

Spike's Peak.

Gavin · « **Reply #4 on:** March 11, 2020, 08:02:04 PM »

Adam, here are a few areas that should meet your criteria.

The Old Man: three routes at 5.10b, 5.10b, and 5.11b. (New route numbers on the list are 302.515, 302.53, 302.54.)

Voyeur Wall: I think you've already done some of these, but there are more new routes now - Rug Burn (5.11b), Peep Show (5.10c), and Lichen The View (5.11b). (Respectively these are 410.21, 410.283, 410.285.)

Goat Rock: three new routes at 5.9 to 5.10a/b. (Respectively these are 485.55, 485.56, 485.57.)

Spike's Peak: a number of new routes, and 3 of them are 5.10a, 5.10a, and 5.11a. (Respectively these are listed as 560.43, 560.64, 560.67.)

briham89 · « **Reply #5 on:** March 11, 2020, 09:57:49 PM »

I 2nd the Gavin list

Atomizer · « **Reply #6 on:** March 12, 2020, 06:28:59 AM »

Would the Old Man be climbable today? Not sure of the aspect and it did rain some yesterday afternoon?

Gavin · « **Reply #7 on:** March 12, 2020, 07:19:34 AM »

It definitely rained yesterday, in sporadic showers but with a surprising amount of precip, especially given the 20-30% forecast!

I'm guessing it may still be a bit wet today... It looks like it will be sunny today but I think it could take the Old Man routes awhile to dry out. The 5.11b is definitely on the shady side and could be a bit damp.

F4? · « **Reply #8 on:** March 12, 2020, 09:34:33 AM »

Planet Granite Santa Clara has some wicked boulder problems.

Check it out!

Atomizer · « **Reply #9 on:** March 14, 2020, 10:25:24 AM »

Joe and I climbed at The Old Man on Thursday and it wasn’t too wet to climb as we expected. The weather was glorious and we managed to lighten up the crag a little bit for public service.

I really loved the 5.6 Chute. Then we did the new route to the right. Which was just okay. The Rock quality was sub par compared to the other routes we climbed. The other 5.10 was really fun. Onsighted Dementia, which was quite a battle. I climbed it a second time via a much easier start to the right that skipped the initial boulder problem at 5.9 then proceeded to fall three times on the upper part. I can confidently say that top bit is harder than 5.11b and likely much harder when the crucial knob breaks. Good stuff and a nice day all around. Thanks for the new routes.

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #10 on:** March 14, 2020, 11:22:04 AM »

Quote from: Atomizer on March 14, 2020, 10:25:24 AM

Joe and I climbed at The Old Man on Thursday and it wasn’t too wet to climb as we expected. The weather was glorious and we managed to lighten up the crag a little bit for public service.

Great that it wasn't too wet.

I interpret that last sentence to mean you broke off a few holds.

Quote from: Atomizer on March 14, 2020, 10:25:24 AM

I really loved the 5.6 Chute.

Of all the lines out there that was the one I wanted to do the most. Love at first sight.

Quote from: Atomizer on March 14, 2020, 10:25:24 AM

Then we did the new route to the right. Which was just okay. The Rock quality was sub par compared to the other routes we climbed.

Surprising.

Quote from: Atomizer on March 14, 2020, 10:25:24 AM

The other 5.10 was really fun. Onsighted Dementia, which was quite a battle. I climbed it a second time via a much easier start to the right that skipped the initial boulder problem at 5.9 then proceeded to fall three times on the upper part. I can confidently say that top bit is harder than 5.11b and likely much harder when the crucial knob breaks. Good stuff and a nice day all around. Thanks for the new routes.

clink bouldered out the start on that one if I remember correctly (classic clink MO) and I definitely remember Gavin topping it out (I was watching from a nearby summit).

Gavin · « **Reply #11 on:** March 16, 2020, 11:07:45 AM »

Quote from: Atomizer on March 14, 2020, 10:25:24 AM

Joe and I climbed at The Old Man on Thursday and it wasn’t too wet to climb as we expected. The weather was glorious and we managed to lighten up the crag a little bit for public service.

I really loved the 5.6 Chute. Then we did the new route to the right. Which was just okay. The Rock quality was sub par compared to the other routes we climbed. The other 5.10 was really fun. Onsighted Dementia, which was quite a battle. I climbed it a second time via a much easier start to the right that skipped the initial boulder problem at 5.9 then proceeded to fall three times on the upper part. I can confidently say that top bit is harder than 5.11b and likely much harder when the crucial knob breaks. Good stuff and a nice day all around. Thanks for the new routes.

Glad to hear you had a good day with the routes at Old Man. I wondered whether I should have bumped up the rating on Dementia to 5.11c... I agree that the crux section is tough. I think the joy knob at the end of the crux sequences is pretty solid... Hopefully it will stick around for some time to come.

I think there is still some loose rock to be cleared at the edges of the natural line of the new 5.10, but I wouldn't go so far as to say the overall rock quality is sub par... I think it is pretty good overall. Given a few more ascents and some good rains I think the loose rock on the edges will clean up well (as has happened with the other 5.10). At any rate I think the sequences are pretty fun on that route.

Brad Young · « **Reply #12 on:** March 16, 2020, 11:18:00 AM »

And the conclusion about Dementia is 5.11b or 5.11c?

I may be doing a little editing to the East Side text this week (between snow-blowing sessions) and would be quite happy to make any necessary change.

Gavin · « **Reply #13 on:** March 16, 2020, 11:43:29 AM »

I would be inclined to leave Dementia at hard 5.11b for now, but I'm open to other points of view if others feel strongly that it is closer to 5.11c.

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #14 on:** March 16, 2020, 04:01:21 PM »

Quote from: Gavin on March 16, 2020, 11:43:29 AM

inclined
feel strongly

Interesting word choices

Atomizer · « **Reply #15 on:** March 16, 2020, 05:59:25 PM »

As for Dementia, I haven’t fallen three times on a 5.11 ever at pinnacles. So I’d be inclined to say it’s an upper level 5.11. But maybe easier for taller folk. The crucial knob I speak of is in the middle of the Crux not the final one.

clink · « **Reply #16 on:** March 16, 2020, 09:28:11 PM »

The crucial knob is a conglomerate with microfractures.
It will break and the route will become at least 5.11b+.

11e

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #17 on:** March 17, 2020, 07:41:48 AM »

Quote from: clink on March 16, 2020, 09:28:11 PM

The crucial knob is a conglomerate with microfractures.

There is no conglomerate at Pinnacles and you can't see micro fractures without serious magnification.
I know for a fact you can barely see your hand in front of your face.

clink · « **Reply #18 on:** March 17, 2020, 08:00:23 AM »

Macro-fractures on diverse looking hold

briham89 · « **Reply #19 on:** March 17, 2020, 08:56:19 AM »

Quote

I haven’t fallen three times on a 5.11 ever at pinnacles

You can't say that anymore

Sorry had to do it

News:

Author Topic: Good or Fair? (Read 4285 times)