It's route number 611 in the 2007 book. The first ascent is credited: "unknown, probably Brad Young, Clint Cummins, 11/2005."
The first ascent information matters, because I've now changed the route.
As the years have passed, I've realized that this November, 2005 effort really was the FA. We claimed "probably" then because the route is just so obvious from the trail. But no-one has brought out other information since then, and if a route being obvious from the trail disqualifies it as an FA, well, the implications are obvious. The new book first ascent entry for this route will read: "Brad Young, Clint Cummins, 11/2005."
After concluding that this really was the first ascent (and likely still the only-ever ascent), I thought about how we used the tree to protect the 25 foot high, starting water chute. It's not just an issue of using a tree either. On the first lead, after talking with Clint, I climbed an easier face about 25 feet to a tree that is well up and right from the main climbing line. I used three or four slings tied together from this tree to reach fairly low onto the chute that is the line. I then down climbed to the base and climbed the water chute.
We thought of this as a rope trick that let us "avoid placing bolts."
But as more time goes by, this looks like less of a rope trick, and more like nonsense.
Using trees for anchors and/or protection points seems less viable now than it used to seem. First, it can and does kill trees. Second, years ago I had a 1 1/2 inch diameter tree break off under much less than body weight. I couldn't believe that a tree of this diameter could break like that (I took a 20 foot tumble/fall onto a grassy slope). Add in the distance the tree that protects South Summit Slot is from the actual climbing? Yeah, it just didn't make sense any more.
About a month ago I got on the route intending to add a bolt to protect that chute and make the silliness of using the tree unnecessary. That effort didn't work very well though.
First, given the nature of the climbing and the location of the slings way down from the tree, it became obvious that two bolts would be needed to provide the same level of protection as the slung tree. Second, in a rare and dumb stunt, I f#$ked up the one bolt that I did place!!
So two days ago I went back. The nature of the screw up on the bolt I'd placed earlier meant that the hole was unusable after I removed the bolt. I patched it and carefully camouflaged the hole. In the end I used a new hole and I also placed a second bolt. I'm pleased that the bolts are in rock that is "8" and "7" out of ten in quality (really pleased). Unfortunately the climbing itself is not anywhere near as good as the bolts
The new bolts' hangers are very well camouflaged too, and almost invisible from the trail.
I'm not as diligent about photos on this kind of stuff as is our forum rebolting specialist. Anyone who's made it this far into reading this text will not be rewarded by any visual stimulus. Just the report.
And by this bet: I bet that both people that climb this route over the next 100 years will be glad that I made this effort
