Proclamation Pinnacle - South Summit Slot

[Zay]

So has no one else really ever climbed this thing? This is the giant, obvious chimney system seen from the parking lot, no? Sorry, I dont have my book on me at the moment. I've been eying that thing for years.

Brad, will I die if I attempt it?

[F4?]

If you do, be sure to soft brush the route.

[JC w KC redux]

So has no one else really ever climbed this thing? This is the giant, obvious chimney system seen from the parking lot, no? Sorry, I dont have my book on me at the moment. I've been eying that thing for years.

Brad, will I die if I attempt it?

Zay - I know you have asked about this route on at least one other occasion - that backside chimney route is not what this thread is referring to (but you probably already realize that).
That one is called North Summit Crack 5.7
2 pitches - all gear.
double cams to 4 inches and stoppers.
2nd crack to the left of the chimney leads to a ledge 60 feet up - traverse in to the chimney and belay from gear.
continue 100 more feet in the chimney unprotected until you can join Regular Route (on the left side) - finish on that.

I haven't done the route yet but I want to.
I've done the Regular Route and the 4th Class to the south summit.
Kat and I also put up a new bolted route - Dare to Declare that is fun.

happy hunting.

JC

[Brad Young]

Zay:

1.  You will die whether or not you attempt it.

2. You can't see this route from the parking lot - it's on the opposite side of Proclamation.

3. Did you read this thread from the beginning to see that the way I originally left the route - with a weird tree tie-off to the side - seemed dumb to me these years later, so I added two lead bolts to make it a real route?

[JC w KC redux]

Classic post and ghost 

[Zay]

Thanks for responding guys.

[JC w KC redux]

Kat and I climbed this route two weeks ago today.

The bolts were very welcome.

I wingspanned way out left to reach/clip the first bolt before committing to the lousy rock at the start.
Decent hands with committing stemming on crumbling foot holds (left side) to reach bolt 2.
I got a sling knob at the lip.
30 feet to the next pro.
In hindsight, I should have stemmed the last 25 feet but got spooked by the rock quality (again) and instead assumed an awkward chimney position in the flare.
I felt like I was going to pitch off at least twice in that section and worse - I could not turn into the thing to have any possibility of getting in more pro (it probably wouldn't hold a fall anyway). It was terrifying. 

Shade in the squeeze chimney (you can barely see me) was heaven sent (on a 95 degree day).

[Brad Young]

Kat and I climbed this route two weeks ago today.

The bolts were very welcome....

So, did I win this bet:

"...I'm not as diligent about photos on this kind of stuff as is our forum rebolting specialist. Anyone who's made it this far into reading this text will not be rewarded by any visual stimulus. Just the report.

And by this bet: I bet that both people that climb this route over the next 100 years will be glad that I made this effort  "

Or is it even a bet if no-one actually accepted and shook my hand? Yep, I'm glad we did the "nonsense" ascent, and at least as glad that I added the bolts.

[JC w KC redux]

I bet that both people that climb this route over the next 100 years will be glad that I made this effort  "

Anyone who climbs the route will be grateful. The bolts are well placed in terms of both position and quality (including aesthetics).

Me and Tuff Chik at the summit (a kind passerby offered to send these to us).





And Tuff Chik rapping from the spiffy anchor I replaced last year. It's set to take you right back down the route.

[Zay]

Did this route today. Thank you Brad for adding those bolts; you're ****ing crazy for having done it without them   

William and I thought the chimney was a hoot, and he'd never even been to Pinnacles before.

Pro was, as advertised, so-so. (in order of appearence: blue, yellow, and black totem; black and yellow were within inches of each other, and were about 4 feet up and left of Blue, which was a good ways after the last bolt. But hey, who falls out of a good chimney?)

Sweet summit.

[Brad Young]

^^^

New rule. No using the word crazy in the same sentence as my name.

Second new rule. No using the word crazy in the same post as my name.

I’m anything but crazy: husband, father, career; all the establishment, old fart stuff. No crazy here.

[Brad Young]

Oh, and I forgot some of the more obvious characteristics too. Rich, tall, handsome, gregarious. Great wife. Total square, mainstream, not crazy.

[Zay]

You are way too timid for my taste, anyway.

[mynameismud]

@Brad,
Your Crazy!!!!!!!

[JC w KC redux]

Crazy, skilled, lucky - but mostly crazy. 

[Brad Young]

You are way too timid for my taste, anyway.

That makes sense. After all, it wasn't me who jumped off the free moves above the aid ladder on Los Banditos.

[Zay]

That makes sense. After all, it wasn't me who jumped off the free moves above the aid ladder on Los Banditos.

LOL that got a good chuckle outta me.

Still need to go back and finish that route... wonder if anyone's been on it since...? Like JTree said (in his excellent trip report), "All crux free sections should be protected by more-than-vertical bolt ladders."

[Jody]

Just saw this thread...sorry Brad. I climbed that with my cousin when I was ten years old...1974.

[Jody]

^^^

New rule. No using the word crazy in the same sentence as my name.

Second new rule. No using the word crazy in the same post as my name.

I’m anything but crazy: husband, father, career; all the establishment, old fart stuff. No crazy here.

Everything you listed makes you crazy.

[JC w KC redux]

Just saw this thread...sorry Brad. I climbed that with my cousin when I was ten years old...1974.

Mystery solved.