Author Topic: Standards for R or X ratings (Read 26395 times)

squiddo · « **Reply #40 on:** February 05, 2007, 06:12:43 PM »

Agree with Munge on that one. Gear is either good or it isn't. If you can't place or see it then don't blame the route. Rock quality is another thing though.

Some of my earliest memories of climbing on this stuff was with a rack of HB's and RP's in my teeth. How many hours did I spend nesting and equalizing some mank granite cracks. I think the persistence in getting the gear in was half the challenge. Then again, perhaps it was not falling on it! There you go Erik, provide that both you and the rock and strong enough what difference does it make. Solo it!

Brad Young · « **Reply #41 on:** February 05, 2007, 06:17:15 PM »

Mungie is right, training and special tecniques aren't part of danger ratings. Aside from danger ratings though, many of the descriptions and topos describe unique protections needs. I tried not to give such information, though when the pro in question can be seen from the ground.

karl · « **Reply #42 on:** February 06, 2007, 03:57:11 PM »

Brad,

I'm sure you'll do what you think is best in terms of ratings and stars. I'd just like to say that you don't have to be affraid to use the R rating. In most guidebooks it is just a caution. A slip in R territory doesn't have to mean a trip to the hospital, instead R is often used for "watch yourself on this one". I know that I don't like when there is no R rating on a climb with 40 feet of chossy 5.6 after 40 feet of 5.12. If a knob breaks it could go real bad no matter how good the climber is.

Karl

F4? · « **Reply #43 on:** February 07, 2007, 09:07:30 AM »

Quote

I know that I don't like when there is no R rating on a climb with 40 feet of chossy 5.6 after 40 feet of 5.12. If a knob breaks it could go real bad no matter how good the climber is.

My feelings exactly.

F4? · « **Reply #44 on:** February 07, 2007, 09:08:55 AM »

That is if I could climb 5.12 :shock:

The Big · « **Reply #45 on:** February 07, 2007, 10:05:49 AM »

I am a bit of the opposite. I think that R and X are over used. To me runouts are usually obvious from looking at the guidebook. If there is a big gap then there will be a run. I prefer to see an R or X when there is a surprise up there that cannot be seen from the ground or by looking at the guidebook.

Brad Young · « **Reply #46 on:** February 07, 2007, 10:11:31 AM »

I agree with Mr Mud. (I have to or he won't climb with me.) The use Karl suggests above would dilute the meaning of "R" to the point where it wouldn't mean much. I'd rather use "R" sparingly, in a way that it catches people's attention where it appears.

And, Karl, good to see you on our little "private" forum. You don't post often, do you read the threads much?

F4? · « **Reply #47 on:** February 07, 2007, 01:21:14 PM »

Hey Karl, where are you from?

Okay Mr Mud, I'm a grown up and see your point about the notation for "suprises".

The Big · « **Reply #48 on:** February 07, 2007, 05:17:46 PM »

Well that make one of us.

Quote from: "F4?"

Hey Karl, where are you from?

Okay Mr Mud, I'm a grown up .

karl · « **Reply #49 on:** February 07, 2007, 05:33:51 PM »

F4? -- I'm from San Francisco.

Brad – It’s nice to be a part of the forum, because I love Pinnacles. I’ve been reading the posts for several months, but often don’t have anything of interest to add.

------

As for R routes, I don't mean to use them all the time. Pinnacles is notorious for high first bolts, runouts on "easy ground", less than bomber bolts, and choss. I am not saying to use them in all those circumstances, but not to be afraid to use them. I think that sometimes guidebook authors are afraid to over-star, under-star, over-grade, under-grade, R, or X a route because of what other people may say. Well, people will always find something to hate about a guidebook. People tend to forget that it is a GUIDE book and not the last word on every route in an area.

I agree with Mr Mud that R’s and X’s should be related to something you can not know about from the guidebook or from the ground. I'm just not happy when I look at the guide and the bolts look safely spaced and from the ground I can't see anything that looks bad, then I end up running out some chossy section over a huge block. It's usually after I get my heart to stop racing that I think "why wouldn't someone make some notation?" Of course, if Brad's topos of Pinnacles routes are anything like his topos elsewhere, I doubt that such an incident could happen.

F4? · « **Reply #50 on:** February 08, 2007, 07:33:10 AM »

Are you the Karl of Gorillas in the Moss and Pickpocket? Thought you sounded familiar. I've run into you a couple times.

It's good to have "fresh blood".

Brad are you working much these days? Your posting activity has increased.

Brad Young · « **Reply #51 on:** February 08, 2007, 09:23:31 AM »

Define "working," and define "much."

karl · « **Reply #52 on:** February 08, 2007, 09:59:27 AM »

Quote

Are you the Karl of Gorillas in the Moss and Pickpocket?

Yes. Karl of the Clan McPickpocket from the highlands of Moss.

As for my blood, maybe I should know your name before you take it.

F4? · « **Reply #53 on:** February 08, 2007, 01:26:44 PM »

Hey Karl, you probably don't remember my name since it's been a couple years. It's Erik.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #54 on:** February 08, 2007, 02:55:05 PM »

THERE CAN BE ONLY ONE HIGHLANDER!!!

karl · « **Reply #55 on:** February 08, 2007, 03:00:29 PM »

That won an oscar for "best movie ever made" didn't it?

mungeclimber · « **Reply #56 on:** February 08, 2007, 05:29:35 PM »

prolly, I'm particularly fond of the special effects.

so childish looking now, but at the time!!!

Brad Young · « **Reply #57 on:** February 08, 2007, 06:15:06 PM »

Munge, as your friend, I gotta tell you, your posts get wierder all the time. Half the time I can't figure what in hell you mean. I know I'm two generations behind you and yours, who are very computer literate, but I'm not that out of it am I? (Set myself up for what's coming next.) I stared at your response to Karl and I don't get it. Explain it to a computer nOOb?

mungeclimber · « **Reply #58 on:** February 08, 2007, 09:40:09 PM »

Ok, roll back the years to circa 1980 something... the movie "The Highlander" comes out. A bad sci fi thriller, with the sequels becoming progressively worse.

I forget the guys name but he introduces himself as a Scotsman where he says finishes the intro "Of the clan MacLeod"

So my post is an oblique reference to

Quote

Karl of the Clan McPickpocket

the reference deserving of a 'shout out' of sorts as they say in the hip hop industry...

that is the famous line from the movie...

"There can be only one!" i.e. Highlander.

ok, so that's the reference. Now that I've had to explain it. It loses its value, its gravitas.

However, we can't leave you this post without mentioning the fact that posts can be purely random acts of language with no meaning or value.

Such as the ever popuplar "postcount++"

And now I'll leave you with this so we can stay on topic...

Brad Young · « **Reply #59 on:** February 08, 2007, 09:59:04 PM »

OK, so it isn't my lack of understanding modern computer acronyms and slang here. Instead it is my lack of "culture." I've never even heard of the movie "Highlander." You and Uber seem to know every reference to every movie and song that has come out since the mid 70s. Especially Uber. I am much less cultured.

News:

Author Topic: Standards for R or X ratings (Read 26395 times)