Well slowly I have actually been getting into shape. I got my first 11 on sight lead in the gym a few weeks back. I did not see that as a legitimate 11 on sight but it was at least a benchmark. Last weekend I got my first 11 on sight. I think it was soft for the rating, it was over bolted and really short, but I will take it as a win. A couple of other 11's I was close but blew a sequence or just did not have the head space to move through past a bolt without tensing up. I consistently on sighted 10's. The one thing I like about the gym up here is the auto belay.
The gym has eight auto belay stations so I can go up there and climb at my own speed. There are about 4 11c auto belay climbs. So far I have gotten all of them but I had been consistently stuck at being to only get one of them per day. Last week I got three in one day, I kept taking long rests but could not get the fourth. I have borrowed Mudworm's idea of doing blocks so I also do laps of a couple climb which helps with endurance and fine tuning technique.
In addition factor turned me onto the app Fitbod and I have been using that once per day. I have been struggling to consistently workout and this app has provided me with good routines to work through. It has a yearly charge but so far it has been worth it and I have been consistently sore. Will see how this goes. I was trying to get to seven days a week but I think I will shoot for 5 or 6 and just work on building on success.
Climbing up here with Ales has been good. He has had patience with my lack of confidence on lead and took all the rope gun activities for a while. He always encouraged me to lead but did not push me at all. I was thankful because for a while my head space on lead just was not there. I was tense and constantly consumed with the thought of falling. I was a bit of a wreck even on easier climbs where normally I knew the climb was well within my ability. Now that I am starting to lead again he looks for climbs at my level for leads. 10's are not at his level, he is consistently on sighting low 12's. But, following him on 12's, well dogging my way up 12's, has pushed my envelope.
Elbow tendinitis is back and I hurt everywhere but I am starting to feel better on the rock. Work is stressful and very busy but it is good to be getting out consistently and to be experiencing positive results. Will update after a bit. Hopefully will be able to post some improvements.
Here's to sweat in your eye