Author Topic: The road to the pink pussycat  (Read 4981 times)

clink

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Re: The road to the pink pussycat
« Reply #80 on: June 14, 2021, 05:52:52 AM »
 Thanks Munge

 
Causing trouble when not climbing.

clink

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Re: The road to the pink pussycat
« Reply #81 on: June 14, 2021, 06:03:57 AM »
Quote
Looks like Frankenstein would only get enough parts for less than half a Monster from the offerings here.

 I realized that the above comment is not true. Adding Atomizer, Gavin and Fletcher in the mix, the good doctor would have plenty for a whole Monster and a few replacement parts. Depending on which parts and from who, it could end up being somewhat top heavy though and not able to corner well.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

mynameismud

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Re: The road to the pink pussycat
« Reply #82 on: June 16, 2021, 11:23:32 AM »
heal up Clink.

I have a family commitment that will take me out of town this weekend which is probably a good thing.   Almost went past the comfortably in pain threshold after climbing last weekend.  A weekend off will probably be good.  Today is the first day where it is sore but not to bad. 
Here's to sweat in your eye

mynameismud

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Re: The road to the pink pussycat
« Reply #83 on: August 30, 2021, 10:38:19 AM »
Well slowly I have actually been getting into shape.  I got my first 11 on sight lead in the gym a few weeks back.  I did not see that as a legitimate 11 on sight but it was at least a benchmark.  Last weekend I got my first 11 on sight.  I think it was soft for the rating, it was over bolted and really short, but I will take it as a win.  A couple of other 11's I was close but blew a sequence or just did not have the head space to move through past a bolt without tensing up.   I consistently on sighted 10's.  The one thing I like about the gym up here is the auto belay. 

The gym has eight auto belay stations so I can go up there and climb at my own speed.  There are about 4 11c auto belay climbs.  So far I have gotten all of them but I had been consistently stuck at being to only get one of them per day.  Last week I got three in one day, I kept taking long rests but could not get the fourth.  I have borrowed Mudworm's idea of doing blocks so I also do laps of a couple climb which helps with endurance and fine tuning technique.

In addition factor turned me onto the app Fitbod and I have been using that once per day.  I have been struggling to consistently workout and this app has provided me with good routines to work through.  It has a yearly charge but so far it has been worth it and I have been consistently sore.  Will see how this goes.  I was trying to get to seven days a week but I think I will shoot for 5 or 6 and just work on building on success. 

Climbing up here with Ales has been good.  He has had patience with my lack of confidence on lead and took all the rope gun activities for a while.  He always encouraged me to lead but did not push me at all.  I was thankful because for a while my head space on lead just was not there.  I was tense and constantly consumed with the thought of falling.  I was a bit of a wreck even on easier climbs where normally I knew the climb was well within my ability.  Now that I am starting to lead again he looks for climbs at my level for leads.  10's are not at his level, he is consistently on sighting low 12's.  But, following him on 12's, well dogging my way up 12's, has pushed my envelope. 

Elbow tendinitis is back and I hurt everywhere but I am starting to feel better on the rock.  Work is stressful and very busy but it is good to be getting out consistently and to be experiencing positive results.  Will update after a bit.  Hopefully will be able to post some improvements. 

Here's to sweat in your eye
Here's to sweat in your eye

Brad Young

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Re: The road to the pink pussycat
« Reply #84 on: August 30, 2021, 11:13:50 AM »

I think it was soft for the rating...


No need for you to EVER keyboard these words. We all know that this applies in all circumstances and you can save the 4.34 seconds it takes to type the letters each time.

Brad Young

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Re: The road to the pink pussycat
« Reply #85 on: August 30, 2021, 11:14:46 AM »
^^^

Seriously, it sounds like progress. I know that Noal must be there for this redpoint, but I'd like to be too. Include me please.

mudworm

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Re: The road to the pink pussycat
« Reply #86 on: August 30, 2021, 11:36:38 AM »
Elbow tendinitis is back and I hurt everywhere but I am starting to feel better on the rock. 

I liked every word in that post except for these. Don't let it run its course and get out of control. I had very bad elbow tendonitis years ago. Kinda forgot about it as I just realized that it had stopped bothering me for a while even though I think my current climbing load and difficulty is comparable with when I had the problem. Can't say with 100% confidence what helped but I have my theories (including diet). Will talk to you offline to brainstorm.

Glad to see that you are progressing in the right direction again. Inch by inch, you will get there.
 
Inch by inch, I will get there.

F4?

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Re: The road to the pink pussycat
« Reply #87 on: September 01, 2021, 05:35:21 PM »
Keep up the good fight!
See sport climbing is not so bad after all.
Best of all you don’t have a belayer to give you penalty slack!!!
I would and so would Klink!


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clink

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Re: The road to the pink pussycat
« Reply #88 on: September 02, 2021, 06:53:47 PM »

 Great to hear Mud and inspiring.
 F4, you only get penalty slack when you've been a bad boy.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

mungeclimber

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Re: The road to the pink pussycat
« Reply #89 on: September 03, 2021, 06:59:23 AM »
Good work!
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

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Re: The road to the pink pussycat
« Reply #90 on: September 03, 2021, 10:01:21 AM »
No need for you to EVER keyboard these words. We all know that this applies in all circumstances and you can save the 4.34 seconds it takes to type the letters each time.

DIE
Here's to sweat in your eye

mynameismud

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Re: The road to the pink pussycat
« Reply #91 on: September 03, 2021, 10:02:15 AM »
Great to hear Mud and inspiring.
 F4, you only get penalty slack when you've been a bad boy.

By default F4 get penalty slack
Here's to sweat in your eye

F4?

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Re: The road to the pink pussycat
« Reply #92 on: September 05, 2021, 03:30:43 PM »
Yup, I am used to it. Falls are softer with a bit of slack for the soft catch.
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