Walking Access to top of Balconies?

[Runout]

Have Tues off work. Looks to be 75 degrees. No partner, but 100m static line and a mini-trax rig. Anyone know if it's possible to hike to the top of the Lava Falls/Shake & Bake area?

Thanks

[JC w KC redux]

Not without doing some scary 4th class and going waaaaay around.
You can get to some stuff at The Game Show and Whitetail/Citadel (Mission Impossible, Peon's Delight) much easier and quicker.
4th class chutes up the back to the summit of Citadel aren't bad and you could get to Power Tools.
Big Nixon also now has a proper top anchor. There's a 5.11 on The Shepherd too. Split Boulders. Citadel Stream Boulders.
Even Coyotes Do It Doggie style is a walkoff.
Smiling Simian has a 5.0 route to the anchors for harder stuff.

[Brad Young]

I just did that hike Friday. From near Nexus to near the top of Hook and Drill. Serious class four and I rope soloed it. Could not believe that in my 20s I went up and down it multiple times unroped (dude, what were you thinking!).

The Echoes corridor is utterly choked with two inch diameter poison oak and even dry/ dormant I wouldn’t go that way. So, yes, longer hike around to get to Nexus.

From there, light scramble to an obvious oak. Move through it and over on a ledge to two old bolts ( I roped up here). Obvious up and left ramp past another old bolt. Finish near a pine that can be used to rap back down to get your gear. You’re now a short non exposed section of class four away from being on top of that part of the Balconies, although much farther right/north than the routes you mentioned.

[JC w KC redux]

I was not going to try and explain all that - especially since it takes about an hour and a half to get up there if you're familiar with it. That is why I suggested all the easier alternatives.

I just did that hike Friday. From near Nexus to near the top of Hook and Drill. Serious class four and I rope soloed it. Could not believe that in my 20s I went up and down it multiple times unroped (dude, what were you thinking!).

From there, light scramble to an obvious oak. Move through it and over on a ledge to two old bolts ( I roped up here). Obvious up and left ramp past another old bolt. Finish near a pine that can be used to rap back down to get your gear. You’re now a short non exposed section of class four away from being on top of that part of the Balconies, although much farther right/north than the routes you mentioned.

Hey Brad - when Noal and I went up there to rebolt Blade Runner there was a two bolt anchor at the start and another at the finish. Both had star dryvins and SMC death hangers. We left biners on the upper anchor so we could pull the rope on the way back. You said ramp past only one bolt? Here are the pics I took of those anchors and the traverse.



The 4th class traverse with start anchor





start anchor





end anchor with leavers/rappel setup



Is the rappel/rope-pull setup still in place?


Did you happen to see the mtn proj post about the anchor on Knifeblade Direct being gone? Sam says the section of rock fell out.
I think it has been gone for a long time because Noal and I went up there in 2015 and could not see or find an anchor anywhere (we were in the notch where Knifeblade and Blade Runner start.
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/117984578/knifeblade-direct

I want to go up there and take care of that but no one wants to climb it. I can probably get Noal to help me eventually. Sam also said that Knifeblade has two bolts - not one as shown on the topo.
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/117984711/knifeblade

[Brad Young]

I didn’t see the upper anchor Friday. And didn’t move over to the top of Knifeblade Direct (was more concerned to check out the Hook and Drill raps to get rappel lengths). Sounds like I’ll need to go back to check out more details.

[NOAL]

Sounds like I’ll need to go back to check out more details.

John and I will go back to re-bolt Knifeblade and save you a trip.  Will you include the two anchors in the photos as the new approach in the guide for the Knifeblade?  If so, we will replace them too. 

[Runout]

 Thanks all. Can you get to the upper anchors on Electric Blue or Powers that Be (only done 1st pitch)?

[F4?]

 No, that is the crux of those balconies routes....you can’t walk off and I assume walk down into those routes.
I can think of a safe way to access those route.

It would be fun.

Edit: looking a google earth I can see you can just keep traversing above the nexus. Interesting

Easier would be power tooll and mission impossible.

[Jim]

Have Tues off work. Looks to be 75 degrees. No partner, but 100m static line and a mini-trax rig. Anyone know if it's possible to hike to the top of the Lava Falls/Shake & Bake area?

Thanks

Yes it used to be.  I’ve walked off from from there several times in the 1980s without dropping into the Echos corridor (always way too much poison oak).  Some exposed scrambling/ soloing necessary.  And a long traverse along the east edge to reach a near point to the hillside above the gully that runs past the Echos corridor.

[Brad Young]

John and I will go back to re-bolt Knifeblade and save you a trip.  Will you include the two anchors in the photos as the new approach in the guide for the Knifeblade?  If so, we will replace them too.

The whole passage to and from the Balconies/Nexus will be (is?) described. I think it’s worth rebolting five bolts on the class four passage, the top anchor on Hook and Drill, the apparently missing top anchor for Knifebade Direct and the two belay stations in between.

Depending on closures, availability and weather, I would join you for a day of rebolting at least. Will you let me know if/when you go?

[NOAL]

Sure.  I don't think Knifeblade is in the closures so we might save that for the new year.  Rebolting three or four anchors and a couple of lead bolts is a full day so it might be two trips.

We talked about the two traverse anchors about a month ago but not being able to climb much in the last year I would rather go climbing than replace bolts not in the guidebook. If the new approach description will mention these anchors I am a little more motivated. 

Like Jim and you said I tried to approach Knifeblade  from down in the gully by Echoes once and it was impossible.   The moss was super slick (no sun) and tons of PO.

[JC w KC redux]

I didn’t see the upper anchor Friday. And didn’t move over to the top of Knifeblade Direct (was more concerned to check out the Hook and Drill raps to get rappel lengths). Sounds like I’ll need to go back to check out more details.

I can't believe you didn't see those anchors - especially with the hardware I left on them. I can't imagine someone would have removed that stuff but you never know. The bolts are up kind of high on the wall over a bump-up if I recall correctly.
You must have discovered a bolt on the traverse that we missed? Is is partway across?

The whole passage to and from the Balconies/Nexus will be (is?) described. I think it’s worth rebolting five bolts on the class four passage, the top anchor on Hook and Drill, the apparently missing top anchor for Knifebade Direct and the two belay stations in between. Depending on closures, availability and weather, I would join you for a day of rebolting at least. Will you let me know if/when you go?

If that whole passage is described it's unclear to me. It talks about coming up from Echoes and some vague reference to some ledges but not in the way you wrote it on here (past Nexus and the tree, ramp, etc - and no mention of those anchors or a lead bolt on the ramp).

Hook and Drill anchor needs replaced as do the bolts on the ridge that leads to the Blade Runner anchor (on the ridge there is an anchor and a lead bolt - all split shafts - so that would be a fairly quick part of the "job"). The class 4 traverse will be a pain because those are all star dryvins and I think at least one of the Hook and Drill anchor bolts is too (I forgot to take a picture in 2015). It's a ton of work and bolts. That doesn't even count Knifeblade or Stiletto. Sam said Stiletto doesn't have rappel chains - I've messaged back and forth with him since seeing his post on mtn proj.

No closures on that end of Balconies.

[F4?]

Both anchors on hook and drill are star dryvins.

When Mr Mud and I replaced a few bolts on the route, we just did not have enough bolts to fix the anchor.
Plus according to Mr Muds standards, the bolts were okay.

[JC w KC redux]

Both anchors on hook and drill are star dryvins.
When Mr Mud and I replaced a few bolts on the route, we just did not have enough bolts to fix the anchor.
Plus according to Mr Muds standards, the bolts were okay.

Thanks for the info.
I looked at the lead bolts from below about a month ago and could see that the first bolt is a star dryvin on a homemade angle hanger. The 2nd bolt appears to have a Metolius hanger and a 5 piece bolt. I did manage to find the 3rd bolt (way up) and it is also on a homemade angle hanger – so I am assuming it is also a star dryvin. So I'm guessing you guys replaced the 2nd and 4th bolts?
I couldn't spot the 4th bolt from below. If you can confirm - I will add that info to the Rebolting Master List.
The rock on the climb looks good (at least at the start) but the run from bolt 2 to 3 looks like crater bait.

[F4?]

Well, the remaining lead bolts are those short split shaft ones. From what I remember only the belay had the stars. The worse part of those split shafts is I remember seeing cratering under them.

We just replaced the key ones, 2nd and last on the arete after one does a step over.

[Runout]

So, I'm convinced that I'll get more bang from by buck hauling 100m of static to the Citadel.  Question - if I totally get through several laps up Citadel (ha), would it be feasible to walk around to top of Resurrection (last time I was up there I was 17, I'm 44 now)?
 

[Runout]

Also, will 100m get you from top to bottom on Power Tools?

I seem to recall it do-able w/ 2 double 70m raps.

[JC w KC redux]

Well, the remaining lead bolts are those short split shaft ones. From what I remember only the belay had the stars. The worse part of those split shafts is I remember seeing cratering under them.
We just replaced the key ones, 2nd and last on the arete after one does a step over.

Thanks! - I'll add it to the list.
Looking at the topo - bolt 4 is after the stepover - so I'll put bolts 2 and 4 in December 2004? (from your pic/post of shirtless Mud)
I had a clear look at bolt 1 with binocs and it is definitely not a stud with a nut (split shaft). I need to start using Kat's super zoom camera for such endeavors so I can zoom in and get high res pics. Holding the binocs steady enough to be sure at any significant distance is tough. Regardless - those bolts need replaced and I appreciate the help.

How was the climb? 

[JC w KC redux]

Also, will 100m get you from top to bottom on Power Tools?
I seem to recall it do-able w/ 2 double 70m raps.

People on mtn proj have some rap info.
Sounds like the upper pitches on PT are the most fun anyway.
I've heard Mission Impossible is really good and everybody on the PT mtn proj post says it's a must do if you're out there.

Here is the first posters rap info on PT.

RAP BETA:

The first, second, third, and fifth belay stations have rap rings or chains. Adding quick-links or chains to the fourth belay would allow you to get to the ground doing single rope raps on a 60. It would probably take 3 raps, but the important thing is that you can rap to the ground from the second anchor. We rapped from the top anchor, all the way to the second anchor, to the ground, using two 60s. (On the last rap half of both ropes was on the ground.) Definitely not worth the work hiking an extra rope to The Citadel, when all that's needed is some quicklinks on the 4th anchor.

I also see a bit of griping about anchors on PT so if you could take some pics - I'd greatly appreciate it.

[F4?]

The beauty of Hook and Drill bolts....if old they need to be replaced. No sense mulling what they are.

It's a good route. Worthy prize.
Only caution: you transition from the 1 chute onto another. #1st place a #2 Camalot up high on long sling. Then transition onto the new chute. Make a few moves to the bolt, the one that was replaced.

This section.....if you blew it, you'd blow your ankles out.

Small price to pay for the glory.

I'd lead it.