Author Topic: Naked Lunge at the Yaks info?  (Read 3026 times)

Neal Lischner

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Naked Lunge at the Yaks info?
« on: December 07, 2020, 08:20:07 PM »
Hi,

I’m new to this forum and have relatively few visits to Pinnacles. However my partner and I have climbed there 4 times in 4 weeks and had some great days. We found Liebacker’s Lullaby easily enough on our first Yaks visit and very much enjoyed it.  This past weekend we went back to the Yaks and climbed Crack Climber’s Concerto, which was also great. We then hiked around at the top trying to find In the Soup but never really figured out where it was. So we went back to our packs and started up Naked Lunge. The first pitch needed quite a bit of gardening to get to the wide crack but we made it work. My partner fell halfway up the dihedral while resting on two seemingly good footholds when one suddenly broke. He finished up the crack after that and I tried to find the second pitch. Never did. Traversed right and found a face with no pitons or bolts that I could see and was covered by that black crunchy flaky lichen. I think it is lichen. Anyway it was getting close to sunset so we bailed to the left of the dihedral (which the guidebook says not to go up, why?) because it looked easy 5th class to the top for a rapid finish. It was easy 5th class and we got back to our packs before sunset. So does anyone have more info about that second pitch? Were we close? Maybe we didn’t go far enough right? And next time I would want to try the “easy dihedral” since it looked like it might be fun, unless someone knows a good reason not to. Sorry for such a long post. Thank you to anyone with beta.

Brad Young

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Re: Naked Lunge at the Yaks info?
« Reply #1 on: December 07, 2020, 08:33:51 PM »
Too much to respond to while my wife drives a winding road. Lemme just say that it’s WICKED cool to see people doing some of the older and obscure routes on that wall!!

I’ll comment more tomorrow.

Brad Young

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Re: Naked Lunge at the Yaks info?
« Reply #2 on: December 07, 2020, 08:34:39 PM »
Oh, and welcome to the forum.

NOAL

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Re: Naked Lunge at the Yaks info?
« Reply #3 on: December 07, 2020, 08:41:18 PM »
I have not climbed that route so I dont have much info for you but that's awesome you are climbing at the Yaks!


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Re: Naked Lunge at the Yaks info?
« Reply #4 on: December 07, 2020, 08:48:36 PM »
It probably says not to go up the easy dihedral because that is not the way the route was climbed by the FA party.

The route that sounds the most perplexing is Terminal Buttress and it's multiple variations.

Reads like the script to a bad prison escape movie.  :frown2: :rolleyes: :lol:
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F4?

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Re: Naked Lunge at the Yaks info?
« Reply #5 on: December 08, 2020, 10:10:12 AM »
Wow, great job. How was crack climbers concerto? Not to dirty? It’s on my list for sure.

Another good route is Ashes to Ashes, once you pay for admission...getting to the 1st bolt.

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Brad Young

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Re: Naked Lunge at the Yaks info?
« Reply #6 on: December 08, 2020, 12:35:30 PM »

It probably says not to go up the easy dihedral because that is not the way the route was climbed by the FA party.


John hit the nail on the head here. It's not any "there be monsters here" issue like on ancient maps. It's just that that's not the way the route goes, which is an important note for climbers wanting to do the whole route and not to "escape" off of it. And that straight up climbing is without question easier; it is an "escape."

Why did Keith and Jack finish the climbing the way they did? Who knows? My guess is that they wanted actual climbing the whole way up the face and saw interesting rock out right and then up (note that the word here is "interesting" and not necessarily "good").

I've also never noted that escape as a "separate route" like I did with the finish variations of Terminal Buttress since it's arguably not even "climbing" (absolutely not the case on Terminal Buttress!). Anyone that thinks that I should call that a separate variant should chime in here.

Neal's question about where the end is actually located is harder to answer. Neal, since you weren't quite sure where you were, it's impossible for me to tell you how far off you might have been. That fixed pin, traversing section of the climb isn't that far from the top. Having tried to onsight the route from the start, but not found it, I'd suggest that it would be easy to find what you missed by rappelling from the top and finding it? And then, of course (!) do a "good style" ascent of the whole route from bottom to top (what else would you do?!).

Finally, Neal, I meant what I said about people actually doing some of the older and more obscure routes there. Totally cool! In the future, you may not have much time for the Mudn'Crud forum, but if you do, I for one would love to know a bit more about you (how long climbing, why interested in climbs like this, other routes interested in, stuff like that). And, if you ever do go back, how about a mini-trip report with a few photos?

Thanks again,

Brad






mynameismud

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Re: Naked Lunge at the Yaks info?
« Reply #7 on: December 08, 2020, 08:36:43 PM »
I am guessing you did not venture far enough.  Hard to tell for sure.
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mynameismud

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Re: Naked Lunge at the Yaks info?
« Reply #8 on: December 08, 2020, 08:37:38 PM »
Welcome to the forum.  Worthy first post unfortunately unworthy answers.
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Neal Lischner

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Re: Naked Lunge at the Yaks info?
« Reply #9 on: December 08, 2020, 09:04:17 PM »
Thanks for the replies. I understand about the route the first ascentionists took and so next time when we have a little more time before sunset and are climbing it, we’ll spend more time looking or try rappelling from the top, as suggested by Brad, to scout it out. We were pretty close to the bolts at the top of Liebacker so there wasn’t that much real estate to look at it.

F4, Crack Climbers Concerto was pretty clean but the first pitch was fairly loose and a bit scary trying to find protection we could count on. The crack only a had a couple plants growing and had lots of good protection.

Terminal Buttress was on our to do list but we chose Naked Lunge because the topo made the route finding look easier. :) Might have been our mistake.

Our next project is Feather Canyon this weekend. Hope we can find it. But we will go back to Yaks sometime. The solitude (other than a pair of condors) can’t be beat.


F4?

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Re: Naked Lunge at the Yaks info?
« Reply #10 on: December 08, 2020, 09:16:31 PM »
I am mulling feather canyon this weekend as well or crack climbers C. My son has no idea what he’d be in for.

Feather canyon Protection to “6 and 6pack of tecate for mid route break.

Enjoy

PS, Jack had a knack for camouflaging his bolts.
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Brad Young

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Re: Naked Lunge at the Yaks info?
« Reply #11 on: December 08, 2020, 09:59:46 PM »
Wow. If the park stays open, I now know of at least three parties that intend to do Feather Canyon this weekend.

BTW, Neal, did you look on the Corrections sticky thread on this site for a better description of In the Soup? That might help if/when you go back.



Neal Lischner

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Re: Naked Lunge at the Yaks info?
« Reply #12 on: December 09, 2020, 07:07:39 AM »
Thanks Brad, I missed the corrections page for In the Soup. Hadn’t planned to search for it until we got here. I think we were looking right at it but nothing looked very climbed so we went back to bottom.

F4, I know the 6 pack beta is no joke, but is the protection to 6” for Feather Canyon meant to provide real beta?


mynameismud

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Re: Naked Lunge at the Yaks info?
« Reply #13 on: December 09, 2020, 07:46:32 AM »
I think we were looking right at it but nothing looked very climbed .

That is because it isn't.
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Brad Young

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Re: Naked Lunge at the Yaks info?
« Reply #14 on: December 09, 2020, 08:23:56 AM »
It's had at least two ascents. Although the partner I did it with pissed and moaned about "having" to do "some obscurity."


F4?

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Re: Naked Lunge at the Yaks info?
« Reply #15 on: December 09, 2020, 11:18:45 AM »
It’s a light hearted joke about the 2 or 3rd pitch. You stem up the wall, higher and higher, You do clip a bolt mid way, and do get bolts near the top.....but man, talk about a lost art. We brought all this hardware and maybe used a #2 Camelot and that was it....

I am sure back in the day, that type of climbing was seen as more secure, hence the sparse bolts at the lower section.

Enjoy the route.

Pretty serious about the beer, as there are some sweet views that must be enjoyed.

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mynameismud

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Re: Naked Lunge at the Yaks info?
« Reply #16 on: December 09, 2020, 08:45:57 PM »
It's had at least two ascents. Although the partner I did it with pissed and moaned about "having" to do "some obscurity."

In the last 10 years or year?
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Brad Young

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Re: Naked Lunge at the Yaks info?
« Reply #17 on: December 09, 2020, 08:55:42 PM »
I did In the Soup in about 2008.