Access to top of Citadel

[Runout]

Somehow I was unable to figure out how to get to the top of the Citadel. I walked up and around, and found what looked like a 4th class chimney. So I figured that was it.  The V1 entry move should have been a clue this was not the way. But no, I found myself 50' up a sketchy 5th class chimney (would have been fine on lead except alone, no trad pro, static rope).  I came back down, then looked further around, but that seemed like a thrash through scrub oak up what looked like a loose face.

So, from this photo, which was the right way to go?

https://imgur.com/a/9u3pryW


Here's the sketchy chimney (that would be fun maybe as a lead, it was clean). I figured soloing Costanoan was a better option except I made a promise to not solo. Had a great time mini trax on White Tail, then went to the Rookie (thanks to whoever rebolted it).

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cuR7p6QAtWvBr2zt7

[Brad Young]

Go directly left in your photo from the "N" in the word "No." That low angle face is where the class four is. You didn't go nearly far enough around.

To get there, walk up the gully that has the down and left pointing arrow with its end close to the question mark.

[JC w KC redux]

Had a great time mini trax on White Tail, then went to the Rookie (thanks to whoever rebolted it).

Noal and I rebolted The Rookie a few years back.
If you're ever wondering just check the Master List "sticky" thread on the main page.

http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=2402.0

[JC w KC redux]

Go directly left in your photo from the "N" in the word "No." That low angle face is where the class four is. You didn't go nearly far enough around.
To get there, walk up the gully that has the down and left pointing arrow with its end close to the question mark.

I seem to remember it being like this when we climbed The Torso and then went around back.

[Brad Young]

^^^

Exactly.

Note also how easy it is to get from that back side up to the north end of the High Peaks, near Dragonfly Dome (although that passage can't be seen in this screen shot).

[NOAL]

Note also how easy it is to get from that back side up to the north end of the High Peaks

Easy if you choose wisely.  Easy to choose unwisely and be bushwhackin'.  Mega brush through there.

[F4?]

Ah, so my spidy senses were correct on how to get off the Citadel.

[Brad Young]

Easy if you choose wisely.  Easy to choose unwisely and be bushwhackin'.  Mega brush through there.

Um, yeah, maybe. But really anyone who was going to "choose wisely" would already have taken the trail, right?   

[Runout]

Thanks so much all. FWIW, that chimney might be an interesting low 5th class route. It was pretty reasonable rock with what looked like trad pro.

[NOAL]

But really anyone who was going to "choose wisely" would already have taken the trail, right?    

Maybe. Maybe.

I like brush on the hill because it causes so many internal dilemmas.   It doesn't matter if you are going uphill or downhill.  When you hit that impenetrable wall you think" do I really want to back track uphill?"  Or if going uphill " damnit I just gained all that elevation just to have to backtrack.  That's when the screw it I'm just gonna crash through this stuff kicks in.  Sometimes its brief but other times you end up crawling or maybe even in rare instances surfing like a stage diver at a punk rock show. 

Last year we did some fun "dilemmas" coming down from Chubby Rain in the drainage below Oh Henry.  Different results each time. FUN.

[F4?]

what did you end up climbing?

[mynameismud]

Isn't it possible to up around to the left?   Or, am I remembering wrong

[Brad Young]

Isn't it possible to up around to the left?   Or, am I remembering wrong

To the top of The Citadel?

Oh you'd remember if you'd gone around that way. It's shorter, overall to that "class four" point from the base of Costanoan. But I would call the brush for the whole distance unpenetrable. I've done it once, from up to down. Hideous. Whereas the other way has little brush.

EDIT: If I recall correctly, it also has some not-quite-class-four going around that way.

[F4?]

No way! I poked my head around that way.

Nope no way