Indian Rock Rebolting

[Runout]

A fellow from Smith is now at Castle and Indian re-bolting. The outcome at Smith was friction with both locals and the park. The park at Smith created a moratorium on bolting.

Related threads:

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/119482266/shawn-snyder-via-ferrata-stupidity

https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/120095113/new-fixe-hardware-installed-on-most-of-indian-rock-and-lime-disease-as-a-special

[NOAL]

Saw this on Mt. Project too. 

Too bad he did not go through the proper channels and then posted about it on the internet.  Other than that do not know the whole story but it looks like the BACC is not happy.   Seemed like they were making good progress with the re-bolting at Castle Rock (Cal ridge etc) and doing it in conjunction with the park. 

[F4?]

Sigh, here we go again.

20-30years later and we still have this issue.

[mynameismud]

yep.  they should have banned all lead bolting at CRSP 20 years ago.

[NOAL]

Wonder where he will go next......

[F4?]

Ugh

[NOAL]

Now where could use a bunch of glue in's... hmmmm

[F4?]

Diablo? Yosemite?

[mungeclimber]

All the anchors I saw at Lyme and Indian appeared to be good quality. Pulling the wedge bolts has been a challenge from what I hear. Right now, it appears that small mussy hooks are being used on Indian Rock. I noticed one screw gate appeared to be undersized and ought to be bumped up to 3/8" from 5/16" at the earliest opportunity. I understand from Coop that the mussys for the other anchor stations are going in soon.

I'll update if I hear more, unless Coop posts up. [Coop is not the Shawn guy in the threads. I don't know Shawn.]

[F4?]

1 slight niggle, as an anchor, the eye should have enough room for multiple clips. It was hard to get 2x in.

[mungeclimber]

That's fair.

[Crustanddust]

hello,

I am the cooper in question, i have quick links and rap rings ordered. I've chatted with a few other local climbers and it seems like mussys are going to be a better call so i will get on that as well. any recommendations on where to order those (or pick em up) is appreciated

[Crustanddust]

apologies about the space in the eye, I am seeing now how that will be an issue.

that said we opted to notch the bolts further into the rock because we believed it to give it better resistance to loading in different directions.

another point to be made (and one that can be seen at castle rock across the street)  is that the wave bolts have some amount of flex even when placed properly. this can be seen on the second bolt on mullah and on one of the anchor bolts on the 5.7.

I'm wondering if anyone has seen this before or knows of this creating any serious issues? I know that wave bolts are incredibly strong and I am not questioning the strength of any of those bolts. just wondering if the shock loading over time + the flex in the wave bolts could create issues.