Cataract Corner

[F4?]

Honestly that bolt on the crux of Lava Falls is hands down the worst placed gleuin I've seen anywhere in the world... Sorry if I rattle anyone with that, but I have trouble not being honest. That said I'd welcome glueins with the Master Thornburg being there to advise.

Sheesh, so critical of the handy work.

Yeah, that was my fear about glue-in's...there is a specific art.

Lava Falls, sigh that was drilled and then filled at 5-6pm in the evening. It was too cold, the glue would not come out and broke the gun. So the work around was extract the glue into a plastic bag, run it up and inject it...not pretty to say the least.
At least it's a 6" x 1/2'" bolt and that rock was amazingly solid.

Plus the team was not glue-in savvy as was I think Greg when he did the work (all by hand mind you).

Glad to see you posting up, don't be a stranger.

We need more conspiracy theories about the monument.

[mungeclimber]

If Sharma wants to come put some glue ins in, he's welcome to. But I could give two shits about whether a big name is pissed or not. Its all hindsight judging until someone actually does the work. So in that spirt, the utmost appreciation to you guys for actually making it happen!

[Atomizer]

I'm glad I rattled a few of you, but I felt bad and edited my post. Maybe I'm feeling sad about a few things today.

I just don't think the gluein bolts are needed at places like the monolith.
It's more of a hassle than it's worth.

We've been led to believe they are some kind of gold standard.

[squiddo]

I'm glad I rattled a few of you, but I felt bad and edited my post. Maybe I'm feeling sad about a few things today.

I just don't think the gluein bolts are needed at places like the monolith.
It's more of a hassle than it's worth.

We've been led to believe they are some kind of gold standard.

Hi Adam! I wasn’t rattled but appreciated the comment for what it was. Also, appreciated the hell out of clipping the bolt! Thank you all for the service. FAs and replacing bolts are work!

[F4?]

Adam, I am not offended.

Rather the story behind the lava falls glue in....is interesting. Imagine it’s Sunday evening, sun has set, it’s getting cold, you think you are all done and then from above...glue not coming out!!

Personally, I lobbied Clint for the bolt to go higher, but he gave in by 4”!

Glue ins at the pinnacles are difficult to do by hand, versus elsewhere with a power drill.

[NOAL]

Thanks Adam! 

Having someone who is familiar with the routes on the Monolith who knows how to rebolt and can make good decisions about if new holes need to be drilled or if bolts need to be moved is key. 

[mudworm]

I'm glad I rattled a few of you..

Now I can't decide if I should or should not be rattled.

This route will be completely fixed soon with all new bolts and a more enjoyable retro-bolted arrangement.

I thank you on behalf of all the softies.

[mynameismud]

what did i miss

[F4?]

Nothing, still raining up there in Canada?

[JC w KC redux]

I'm glad I rattled a few of you, but I felt bad and edited my post. Maybe I'm feeling sad about a few things today.

I just don't think the gluein bolts are needed at places like the monolith.
It's more of a hassle than it's worth.

We've been led to believe they are some kind of gold standard.

Don't feel bad about being honest.

I wouldn't know a badly placed glue-in if I saw one.
I've placed a few half inch x 2 3/4 sleeve bolts at my anchors and I would haul a truck off them.
The bigger internal bolt and the thickness/beefiness of the sleeve compared to a 3/8 inch bolt is impressive.

I was so glad to hear that you got out and did that work Adam.
It was good to see you and Kelly yesterday.
Looks like it was gorgeous again today but we took a break.

[Atomizer]

It was good to see you and Kelly yesterday.
Looks like it was gorgeous again today but we took a break.

I'm really happy that we ran into you in the parking lot. I had a feeling we'd run into someone we knew with the closures happening so soon.
We had great fun on Full Circle. Cool climbing on loose but well protected rock.

Congrats on your new route. Sounds like a cool spot.

[mudworm]

This is a minor situation that probably does not deserve its own thread.

The base of Cataract Corner is on this slanted rock. While hanging out there, I clip everything into a loop in the extra rope so they do not roll down into the void below. While belaying a heavier climber (on toprope),  I sit at the top of the rock and swing a leg over the top so I can brace myself and not be pulled up when the climber hangs on the rope. I wish there was a ground anchor bolt I could clip into. Apparently, there was one before. Not sure what happened to it -- was the hanger removed out of spite, or did it just fall apart due to age?

[JC w KC redux]

That looks like a split shaft bolt with the shaft exposed. One option would be to take a 3/8 nut (assuming it's 3/8), a few washers and a hanger, and a wrench - and put a hanger on it. The washers may or may not be needed(best to take a couple just in case.

I can easily replace that next time I am on the east side (could be months).

[mudworm]

I'll hope for a bolt fairy to visit it in the present Pinnacles season.   

[mudworm]

The base of Cataract Corner is on this slanted rock. While hanging out there, I clip everything into a loop in the extra rope so they do not roll down into the void below. While belaying a heavier climber (on toprope),  I sit at the top of the rock and swing a leg over the top so I can brace myself and not be pulled up when the climber hangs on the rope. I wish there was a ground anchor bolt I could clip into.

I had a rude awakening last weekend --  I need to lose a few pounds! My partner (a normal sized guy) was belaying me on TR while standing by the tree/brush (back away from the wall to reduce rope drag and interference). At the higher crux, I did a throw to a hold, but didn't stick it. At the time, I had a loop in front of me (he belays like Mr. Mud), so I shock loaded the rope a little when I came off. It pulled my partner off his feet and sent him flying! I had to teach him my belay technique by hooking the right leg on the backside of the rock while sitting on the tip of the slanted rock, which worked quite effectively. Glad that he didn't drop me in that unexpected moment.

[mynameismud]

I think if there was a loop the rope was not shock loaded, I do agree he was shocked to log air time.  Slack allows the rope to have more stretch and I think put less shock loading into the system.  This is my opinion so of course is irrefutable fact.  Except when I get all sketched and scream "TENSION"