Last great pinnacles projects

[Brad Young]

"If we bolt it " is one of Clint and Mr.Muds routes. If you think the bolts need to be replaced you should contact Clint.  Clint and Bruce are the experts on bolt replacements for Pinnacles and the contacts for F.O.P and the ASCA for the park.

Clint and Bruce are absolutely such experts. But I would humbly suggest that they are two of the THREE such experts that we're lucky to have.

Is'nt  If we bolt it included in the closures?

It is closed right now, yes.

And to answer the original question with a question: which of the streaks near If We Bolt It are you talking about?

The right half of the same streak (it's a streak with two parts - "H" shaped) has the one bolt that is shown in the topo. The one even further right is as yet untouched. Both possibilities have been looked at many times by many Pinns climbers with lots of lead bolting experience. And they're still as described above. That'll tell you a lot right there.

[NOAL]

i added John in an edit.  John is definitely an expert.  Sorry John

[JC w KC redux]

"If we bolt it " is one of Clint and Mr.Muds routes. If you think the bolts need to be replaced you should contact Clint.  Clint and Bruce are the experts (and John Cook) on bolt replacements for Pinnacles and the contacts for F.O.P and the ASCA for the park.

Is'nt  If we bolt it included in the closures?

That route is included in the closures and no one should be in that vicinity until after July 4th (happy roasting).

That route is also right in a water streak so if the bolts aren't stainless...

It's a relatively recent FA (1993) so I would hope that the SMC hangers are stainless. They can still develop a patina.
Patina is simply the metal's way of forming a stable, protective, oxidative coating and is not the same as rust.

Are the bolts/hangers painted/camo'd?

I can't imagine they used death hangers but the route is 28 years old and I have seen routes of a similar age with those damn things.
That age also raises a strong possibility that the bolts are 5 piece carbon steel.
Geezus! The good news is that 5 piece bolts can be unscrewed, inspected and the hangers replaced.
I have a bunch of SMC stainless hangers.

As far as a last great project - Gavin has spent considerable time on that wall checking out the other potential lines.
He said "no go" as far as a new project and he is a Master's Master of Mud.

[JC w KC redux]

Hey Brad,

Speaking of experts - when did bolting go stainless?

20 years ago?

[mynameismud]

The route/project immediately to the right of If We Bolt It They Will Cum will probably go but it has a loose section.  I have done a few laps on it after leading If We Bolt It 

The next route over to the right on the ramp I think has potential to be fairly good and not all that desperate.  I think there might be two over there cannot remember at the moment.  Decent rock decent line.  Just needs someone to do it. 

[F4?]

Clint and Mr Mud mis named the route....really it’s correct name..If We Bolt It we can get suckers to Climb it and take some nice falls after breaking the rock off.

What a loose route, that cleans up at the top, but Jeezus what a lead.

Let the route be, not worth it.

And that route is on a oven, rock is concave, so it gets hotter than the sun!!!!

Side. Note, for well established routes, prior to rebolting, the FA is consulted.
Chris B I have found to be responsive. I’m sure Clint would be as well.

[Brad Young]

The route/project immediately to the right of If We Bolt It They Will Cum will probably go but it has a loose section.  I have done a few laps on it after leading If We Bolt It 

The next route over to the right on the ramp I think has potential to be fairly good and not all that desperate.  I think there might be two over there cannot remember at the moment.  Decent rock decent line.  Just needs someone to do it.

The bottom of the streak to the right is not good. It might go, but not well....

[Brad Young]

Hey Brad,

Speaking of experts - when did bolting go stainless?

20 years ago?

It varied. A lot.

I'd say that the big move from whatever was available (lots of quarter inchers) to standardized at 3/8 inch carbon steel was about 1990 (give or take years depending on the bolter and the climbing area). And from the perspective of someone who was climbing before then - this was a big, big deal.

It was at least 10 years, and probably more like 15 before people started to realize that all those shiny new bolts that we liked so well weren't maybe the very best solution after all. Again, it varied. I know Tom Addison was using stainless up here starting in about 2000. But, as an example, Rob and I used a mix on a route at Weeping Wall (also up here) as late as 2005 (stainless in the streak and carbon outside it). If forced to commit to a date, I'd say that stainless has been the standard for about 15 years.

[F4?]

Ha Brad, I’m sure Jim used up all his 1/4 and then switched.
Thank god!

[Brad Young]

Clint and Mr Mud mis named the route....really it’s correct name..If We Bolt It we can get suckers to Climb it and take some nice falls after breaking the rock off.

What a loose route, that cleans up at the top, but Jeezus what a lead.

Let the route be, not worth it.

And that route is on a oven, rock is concave, so it gets hotter than the sun!!!!

Side. Note, for well established routes, prior to rebolting, the FA is consulted.
Chris B I have found to be responsive. I’m sure Clint would be as well.

[Brad Young]

Clint and Mr Mud mis named the route....really it’s correct name..If We Bolt It we can get suckers to Climb it and take some nice falls after breaking the rock off.

What a loose route, that cleans up at the top, but Jeezus what a lead.

Let the route be, not worth it.

And that route is on a oven, rock is concave, so it gets hotter than the sun!!!!

Wow, I thought that I knew that you were into whine.

But I thought it was the liquid variety (even to the point of making it).

Perhaps bowling is for you?

  

[NOAL]

When the pandemic is over we all need to go climbing and then bowling afterwards in Soledad.

[F4?]

I complain where it’s warranted.

Plus Mr Mud laughted at me and conceded, “we went up and down so many times that we knew which holds to use, yeah it’s a bit loose.”

Joe did lead it clean and I followed. Probably some of the best moves in the park. Getting to them, sheesh.

Snowing there yet?.

[F4?]

Hey Noal, Salinas bowl is pretty fun!

We drove over from Pacific Grove to bowl there.

[mynameismud]

That was a fun FA.  Long route, lowering then leading after every bolt.  I think we may have resorted to TR'ing back up after a bit.  Had all my hooks blow on one bolt which resulted in a broken drill bit and me almost killing Clint by dropping the drill holder. 

[JC w KC redux]

I thought Factor's first comment and Noal's were both damn funny.

[JC w KC redux]

me almost killing Clint by dropping the drill holder.

You must have been using one of those Hurry Canes 

A Roc Pecker would barely clink. 

[F4?]

What?

How would you feel if the 1st hod you grabbed broke? And the next 20!

All the while you felt heat radiating from the rock like you were in a pizza oven.
And this was January!

[NOAL]

mmmmm pizza.

[JC w KC redux]

^^^
^^^

Two direct hits again! 

Got my ab workout laughing