Author Topic: Last great pinnacles projects  (Read 12013 times)

mudworm

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Re: Last great pinnacles projects
« Reply #40 on: January 26, 2021, 05:47:42 PM »
How would you feel if the 1st hod you grabbed broke? And the next 20!

You should talk to Gavin about how to "will yourself to be light as a feather so the holds won't pop under your weight."
Inch by inch, I will get there.

mynameismud

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Re: Last great pinnacles projects
« Reply #41 on: January 26, 2021, 06:08:34 PM »
Nah, it was one of those old school rawl drill holders, just a chunk of metal with a tapered hole in the end
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Gavin

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Re: Last great pinnacles projects
« Reply #42 on: January 27, 2021, 01:24:57 PM »
I'm a bit late to the discussion here, but just to echo what others have said:

South Balconies (including "If We Bolt It") is in the current closure areas, and should not be climbed until closures are lifted (likely in early July). I was just doing surveys on the west side yesterday and there is a prairie falcon pair occupying the "If We Bolt It" area.

In terms of the feasibility of establishing climbs in the other streaks to the right of "If We Bolt It" - I climbed "If We Bolt It" a few months ago, so I'm guessing I have been on that route and climbing in that area more recently than anyone else. I don't recall the hangers being death hangers, but I think at least some were camo'ed. I think the bolts were carbon 5-piece. I found the route to be harder than 5.11a, especially in the crux section in the lower half. There was still some loose rock with chunks flying off in the lower half of the route, so that might account for the available holds changing the difficulty of the route over time. It's a fun route for sure, and very sustained.

After finishing "If We Bolt It" I spent some hours exploring the streak just to the right, doing solo toproping laps on a fixed line. I had thoughts of potentially developing that streak further. I would say it is not a feasible project - the bottom was abandoned for good reason, as there is a section of perhaps 25-30 feet that is exceptionally loose. I could not see a way to clear enough garbage rock to make it viable. It's unfortunate, because above that section, the rock improves near to the quality of "If We Bolt It" and the top half of the streak has super fun climbing, probably in the 5.10d to 5.11a range.

mynameismud

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Re: Last great pinnacles projects
« Reply #43 on: January 27, 2021, 02:00:09 PM »
I am fairly sure I got the bottom clean with effort.  It was the loose section in the middle that kept spitting me off.  I figured with work I could get it but would it be worth it.  One thing I did try is traversing from if we bolt it to the upper part of the streak.  That could be a worthy variation.
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Crustanddust

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Re: Last great pinnacles projects
« Reply #44 on: February 12, 2021, 08:31:04 PM »
sounds interesting, i didn't give the hangars the best looks but they for sure did not look like death hangars,

to clear things up I was up there the weekend before the closures.

I haven't climbed much out there, and i have not gotten on 'if we bolt it' but i appreciate the insight

looking forward to getting nuclear on that thing in july  :puke:

NOAL

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Re: Last great pinnacles projects
« Reply #45 on: February 12, 2021, 08:48:26 PM »
July :yikes:


clink

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Re: Last great pinnacles projects
« Reply #46 on: February 13, 2021, 09:40:33 AM »
Quote
If We Bolt It we can get suckers to Climb it

  :)

 Glad to see the forum is still operating at warped speed.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

F4?

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Re: Last great pinnacles projects
« Reply #47 on: February 13, 2021, 03:10:17 PM »
Who are you Klink?

Is this the real Klink Md not JC yanking our chains?
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clink

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Re: Last great pinnacles projects
« Reply #48 on: February 13, 2021, 05:14:14 PM »
Quote
Who are you Klink?

Is this the real Klink Md not JC yanking our chains?

 I called you warped, that should be authentication enough. JC does have a lot of chain to yank. I was fortunate enough to to climb a little with JC, KC, Brad and Caleb over the last couple months. Good to see that you are still messing around and getting in some climbing.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

mynameismud

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Re: Last great pinnacles projects
« Reply #49 on: February 13, 2021, 07:28:27 PM »
I think the bolts and hangers are fine
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F4?

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Re: Last great pinnacles projects
« Reply #50 on: February 13, 2021, 09:00:50 PM »
I am getting out a little.

Hope to see you up in the high peaks
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Last great pinnacles projects
« Reply #51 on: February 14, 2021, 09:32:23 AM »
JC does have a lot of chain to yank.

One wheel shy of "normal"

JC w KC redux

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Re: Last great pinnacles projects
« Reply #52 on: February 14, 2021, 09:45:07 AM »
I think the bolts and hangers are fine

I'd be inclined to agree given the FA date but...
I also assume you guys used all long 5 piece bolts - but not stainless.
It would be interesting to inspect the internal bolts - since the route is in a water streak.
That could provide a good benchmark for similar routes.
One wheel shy of "normal"

clink

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Re: Last great pinnacles projects
« Reply #53 on: February 14, 2021, 09:50:45 AM »
 That is a LOT of chain. A picture of close to thousand links?

 
Causing trouble when not climbing.

clink

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Re: Last great pinnacles projects
« Reply #54 on: February 14, 2021, 10:55:05 AM »

 It was suggested this morning that I pose as a cherub with a bow and arrow on top of a rock, wearing only a harness and gear.
 I suppose Photographer's Delight would be an appropriate rock? (My deepest and heartfelt apologies for sharing this, but I remember that a few of my dear friends struggle to cope with the advent of Valentines Day, and all it's imaginative, romantic and glorious possibilities. I hope this helps them in some way as they endeavor to overcome their personal challenges on this day.)
Causing trouble when not climbing.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Last great pinnacles projects
« Reply #55 on: February 14, 2021, 02:46:48 PM »
^^^

How about a loin cloth and a tiara woven out of poison oak?

and don't worry...

We'll all endeavor to persevere  :out: :prrr: :ciappa:
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F4?

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Re: Last great pinnacles projects
« Reply #56 on: February 14, 2021, 11:23:17 PM »
Kink looks like he has some chain to yank.

Climbed St Valentines Massacre today in Valentine’s Day.

Thin about that
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mynameismud

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Re: Last great pinnacles projects
« Reply #57 on: February 15, 2021, 12:08:38 AM »
I pose as a cherub with a bow and arrow on top of a rock, wearing only a harness and gear.


please no
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clink

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Re: Last great pinnacles projects
« Reply #58 on: February 15, 2021, 08:09:01 AM »
Quote
please no

 Figured this might trigger a few dry heaves or more.

  :)

 
Causing trouble when not climbing.

Brad Young

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Re: Last great pinnacles projects
« Reply #59 on: February 15, 2021, 08:27:50 AM »
Quote
...I pose as a cherub with a bow and arrow on top of a rock, wearing only a harness and gear.

I don't understand the controversy. How is this any different than any other day that starts with your climbing purse and ends up... well, like you said.