This minor anchor situation (on Foreplay)

[mudworm]

See attached. I have a feeling that it's been like this for years. It is one of the three bolts and one of the two rappel chains on the top of Foreplay. I personally would not rappel off of this anchor because one can easily walk over to POD and rappel there without dealing with rappelling into air space, but I also do know many climbers who do not feel comfortable walking across the top of the Monolith. I suspect with the chain link fixed like this, the rappel chains are not equalized.

What is this type called any way? I'll just call it a link even though it's different from the other smaller closed links on the same chain. I tried to browse quickly on this page: https://www.slackline.com/post/the-book-of-climbing-anchors , but did not find it included on the comprehensive page. Too outdated?

I tried to wiggle the link free by hand, but had no success. I'm sure I was not the first one to try. Would banging on the link with a tool damage the bolt in the rock, if not the hanger itself?

This chain will be constantly flipped back and forth because people like to get above the anchor to sit on the flat ground while dealing with the anchor. Even if it's freed, is there an easy way to fill up the gap so it does not gets fixed like this again?  I've seen some cement looking thingy that seals up an anchor link, and wonder if that is the best/easiest solution to this one here.

It's a minor issue as it posts no real threat, but I'm bringing it up because this is one of the more popular routes in the Pinnacles.

[JC w KC redux]

See attached. I have a feeling that it's been like this for years. It is one of the three bolts and one of the two rappel chains on the top of Foreplay. I personally would not rappel off of this anchor because one can easily walk over to POD and rappel there without dealing with rappelling into air space, but I also do know many climbers who do not feel comfortable walking across the top of the Monolith. I suspect with the chain link fixed like this, the rappel chains are not equalized.

What is this type called any way? I'll just call it a link even though it's different from the other smaller closed links on the same chain. I tried to browse quickly on this page: https://www.slackline.com/post/the-book-of-climbing-anchors , but did not find it included on the comprehensive page. Too outdated?

I tried to wiggle the link free by hand, but had no success. I'm sure I was not the first one to try. Would banging on the link with a tool damage the bolt in the rock, if not the hanger itself?

This chain will be constantly flipped back and forth because people like to get above the anchor to sit on the flat ground while dealing with the anchor. Even if it's freed, is there an easy way to fill up the gap so it does not gets fixed like this again?  I've seen some cement looking thingy that seals up an anchor link, and wonder if that is the best/easiest solution to this one here.

It's a minor issue as it posts no real threat, but I'm bringing it up because this is one of the more popular routes in the Pinnacles.

That is a smash link in a bind and ready to lever out of that hanger (very precarious/dangerous) - as clink would say - gnar bar.
Easily fixed by removing the smashlink with a hammer and chisel and then replacing the smashlink with a screwlink.
I could do it in a couple minutes.
I can't believe no one has ever tried to fix that. 
It looks like if you move the chain to the top of the smashlink and yank on it - the whole thing will come off.

[mudworm]

That is a smash link in a bind and ready to lever out of that hanger (very precarious/dangerous) - as clink would say - gnar bar.
Easily fixed by removing the smashlink with a hammer and chisel and then replacing the smashlink with a screwlink.
I could do it in a couple minutes.
I can't believe no one has ever tried to fix that. 
It looks like if you move the chain to the top of the smashlink and yank on it - the whole thing will come off.

It looked so beefy that I didn't know it could be easily opened up and removed. Maybe most people didn't know? Not sure.

I didn't yank on it because I didn't want to damage the hanger and/or the bolt in the rock, and plus, even if just freed, it will go right back to this when the next person flips the chain once climbing above the anchor. Replacing it with a screwlink would definitely solve that problem once and for all.

[F4?]

I can fix next Sunday all going well. I have some quick link and a chisel to pry the smash links open.

Nice job leading the route! If you did......

I will never forget Jacob Miller getting the no hands rest by sliding into the scoop sideways!!

[JC w KC redux]

The only thing holding that on is the spring action of the metal pinching the hanger flange.
The smashlink appears to already be partially "open".
The section you see "standing up" should be going through the hanger hole and laying flat.
A gentle tap or two from behind should dislodge the smashlink and then opening it with a chisel will remove it from the chain.
Put on a screwlink and tighten snugly with a wrench.

[NOAL]

cant see really clear but it looks like there quite a bit of threads showing on that bolt.

[JC w KC redux]

cant see really clear but it looks like there quite a bit of threads showing on that bolt.

There's 8 or 9 threads showing.
That bolt may be a wedge or may be a split shaft.
Split shaft would be an easy replacement (with my puller tool).
Looks like pure shear on a horizontal surface.
No pullout forces from what I can tell.
Might want to call/check with Lance from Portlandia.
He is the pullout King 

[JC w KC redux]

I can fix next Sunday all going well. I have some quick link and a chisel to pry the smash links open.

Can you replace the bolt on Cataract too please?

[mudworm]

... it looks like there quite a bit of threads showing on that bolt.

Is that good or bad? (ah... just saw JC's reply, so I guess that was just to decide the bolt type.)

I can fix next Sunday all going well. I have some quick link and a chisel to pry the smash links open.

Nice job leading the route! If you did......

I will never forget Jacob Miller getting the no hands rest by sliding into the scoop sideways!!

I enjoy leading it every time. Never made an effort to look for a no hands rest there, but even without it, the rest there is pretty good anyway.

Not sure about my weekend plan, but if you plan to fix it, thanks in advance.

[F4?]

Cataract....No, not enough time, nor the equipment, nor the desire to take on such a project......myself.


For glue in you need the bolt, glue, specific drill bit and a drill holder that will hold the specific drill bit.

Always happy to help, but I’d rather leave the task to folks who have set glue ins before.

Foreplay is an easy fix if I am over there with James on Sunday, I might get a top rope on it.


 

[NOAL]

Kind of a funny position for the smash link to get into.

Looks like someone clipped into it with a short P.A.S. and then stood up and yanked it into that wedged position.

[JC w KC redux]

No, not enough time, nor the equipment, nor the desire to take on such a project......
For glue in you need the bolt, glue, specific drill bit and a drill holder that will hold the specific drill bit.
Always happy to help, but I’d rather leave the task to folks who have set glue ins before.
Foreplay is an easy fix if I am over there with James on Sunday, I might get a top rope on it.
 

Not asking for a glue in.
It needs One bolt to replace the broken off one.
Done.
You'd be a hero in James eyes (dad saves the day).
Otherwise it will be sitting for a long time as a reminder of what not to do with a loose hanger.

[JC w KC redux]

Kind of a funny position for the smash link to get into.
Looks like someone clipped into it with a short P.A.S. and then stood up and yanked it into that wedged position.

Dangerously close to a Darwin award.

[mudworm]

There's 8 or 9 threads showing.

You counted, by blowing up the pixels?

F4, make sure you count the threads when you work on the link. I'm sure JC will want to know. 

[JC w KC redux]

You counted, by blowing up the pixels?

F4, make sure you count the threads when you work on the link. I'm sure JC will want to know. 

I just downloaded the photo and zoomed in - then posted it sans thumbnail/link 

I like to see 3 threads minimum showing (general construction safety guideline).

[Brad Young]

You counted, by blowing up the pixels?

Hey, quit being such a cynic. Those of us that are in the club EARN our OCD Overdrive.

[NOAL]

[F4?]

Big ifs....yes if at the monolith this next weekend I will check them out.
If I can, I will swap out the smash links, if not, will just fix the alignment and measure for new chains.


I remember always having to fix the anchor when on that route.

[Gavin]

Hey everyone, just an update on the Foreplay anchor - today I replaced the chains and smash links.

I pried off the smash links, then placed chains, quick links, and mussy hooks, equalized for a lower down the upper water streak.

The old bolts / hangers are still present and could use replacement at some point, but at least for now the chain situation is improved. Here are a couple photos of the new anchor chains with mussy hooks:

[mudworm]

That looks beautiful. Thanks, Gavin! Can't wait to go back to it. The route itself is now one of my favorites. The location is a little tricky, so I'm careful about which partner(s) I do it with.

I'm guessing it was a quiet day at Pinnacles today due to Super Bowl. It was busy yesterday, with big parties hogging the popular climbs. Had Rocket in My Pocket and the Lower North Face to ourselves though (I set up TR from above).