Author Topic: Cool (non-neil young)Video  (Read 2451 times)

NOAL

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Cool (non-neil young)Video
« on: January 08, 2021, 12:22:48 AM »
I was peeping videos of the Nightcrawler (it's on my to do list) and found this awesome video of one of my favorite climbers!
Enjoy!

F4?

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Re: Cool (non-neil young)Video
« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2021, 08:05:30 AM »
Cool find!

Love their routes!

Imagine spending 3 weeks there, how strong one would get.

And.....wear through your gear.

Last big climb there was Black Orpheus with Squiddo.

We met her the next day I think? Or on a prior trip, she was atop Geronimo chit chatting away.
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Brad Young

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Re: Cool (non-neil young)Video
« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2021, 08:20:11 AM »
Yes, Nice find (although I for one am really good with Neil Young stuff too).

It's a great route in a vey quiet and gorgeous location. And a pounding, long approach that is totally worth it once you're there.

Unfortunately I fell off the crux both times I tried it. Sigh. In theory I need to go back and get it clean.


mudworm

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Re: Cool (non-neil young)Video
« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2021, 12:01:27 PM »
I was peeping videos of the Nightcrawler (it's on my to do list) and found this awesome video of one of my favorite climbers!
Enjoy!
Wow, what a nice find! Thanks for sharing, Noal! The video goes so much beyond climbing.
Inch by inch, I will get there.

F4?

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Re: Cool (non-neil young)Video
« Reply #4 on: January 08, 2021, 12:37:06 PM »
It looks intimidating, but I am sure there are features.

I think Noal like chimneys....
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Brad Young

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Re: Cool (non-neil young)Video
« Reply #5 on: January 08, 2021, 12:44:32 PM »

It looks intimidating, but I am sure there are features.

I think Noal like chimneys....


The chimneys are no big deal.

The crux is stemming in a 90 degree corner with no crack. Well, there is a "crack" at first - protected by knifeblade pitons. Then that goes away and it's bolt protected. Very, very thin stemming.




F4?

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Re: Cool (non-neil young)Video
« Reply #6 on: January 08, 2021, 01:50:19 PM »
Hmmm Brad, I now see...looks wild.

That’s what I love about RR, such wild moves....
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NOAL

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Re: Cool (non-neil young)Video
« Reply #7 on: January 08, 2021, 02:57:20 PM »
I like chimneys but also like those corners too.  Black Dagger on the same wall has i really good long corner.

Love the part in the video where she points to the bolt and says "that's what I like"

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Re: Cool (non-neil young)Video
« Reply #8 on: January 08, 2021, 08:27:53 PM »
I thought I heard somewhere, part of the bolting was out of concern for the rock quality....

All I know Is the routes are amazing and I have some pretty good memories pulling down hard there.

Hope to again soon.
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NOAL

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Re: Cool (non-neil young)Video
« Reply #9 on: January 08, 2021, 09:17:03 PM »
Joanne told me another reason is there were no big or small cams back then.