Author Topic: This minor anchor situation (on Foreplay)  (Read 850 times)

Gavin

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 411
    • Gavin Emmons Photography
Re: This minor anchor situation (on Foreplay)
« Reply #20 on: February 08, 2021, 09:43:19 AM »
Actually, it was busier on Sunday than I had expected - definitely a number of groups at Tourist Trap, Discovery Wall, and Monolith. And the parking lots were full. There were more people on Saturday, but still significant amounts of visitors yesterday too.

I felt good about getting the chains replaced, and agree about the route - Foreplay is definitely fun and challenging.

F4?

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 5931
Re: This minor anchor situation (on Foreplay)
« Reply #21 on: February 08, 2021, 01:56:15 PM »
Thanks Gavin!

New chains and missy hooks are perfect!

High Peaks was nice and warm.
I'm not worthy.

mynameismud

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 5760
    • Mudncrud
Re: This minor anchor situation (on Foreplay)
« Reply #22 on: February 09, 2021, 08:13:50 PM »
Here's to sweat in your eye

mudworm

  • Head Mistress
  • *
  • Posts: 1665
    • http://www.mxi2000.net
Re: This minor anchor situation (on Foreplay)
« Reply #23 on: February 13, 2021, 09:52:02 PM »
...then placed chains, quick links, and mussy hooks...

Question: are mussy hooks meant for top roping and lowering off? I've always built my own anchor even with the mussy available (e.g. at the top of Terranean Tango and Feed the Beast). This originated from an old habit of never letting rope run through rappel links and rings.

At this new mussy hook anchor, I found it difficult to find space to clip my own biners (on the small side) to build my own sling anchor. All the chain links are tightly connected without extra room left. I did manage to clip my biners in the hangers so I didn't have to clip into the mussy hooks themselves, but it was a bit cram'ed.  It made me wonder if it's really expected to just throw the rope into the mussy hooks and lower off. I have heard people say mussy is fine for that.
Inch by inch, I will get there.

NOAL

  • Mudders
  • **
  • Posts: 956
Re: This minor anchor situation (on Foreplay)
« Reply #24 on: February 13, 2021, 10:13:50 PM »
You can lower and top rope on them.  It would take a lot to wear through them.

mudworm

  • Head Mistress
  • *
  • Posts: 1665
    • http://www.mxi2000.net
Re: This minor anchor situation (on Foreplay)
« Reply #25 on: February 13, 2021, 10:30:35 PM »
You can lower and top rope on them.  It would take a lot to wear through them.

I see. But for top roping, building my own (extended) anchor still often makes better sense because it makes the rope run smoother over the rock. But for Foreplay, I'll probably just use the mussy hooks next time. Will give that a try.

These chains and mussy are fine on this climb. But in a general sense, I wonder if there is any downside in using chain links with bigger eyeholes (is that the right word?). Either bigger links in size or skinnier in diameter.  If nothing else, one without an adjustable PAS can clip into any link for the optimal length when they need to anchor themselves. Just wondering out loud. Feel free to ignore.

P.S. Cold drizzle in the morning and gusty wind in the afternoon at the Pinns today, but seeing Mr. Mud's weather up in WA, I'm not going to complain. In case my post confuses anyone, my name is actually not Karen.
Inch by inch, I will get there.

JC w KC redux

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 5734
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: This minor anchor situation (on Foreplay)
« Reply #26 on: February 14, 2021, 08:37:55 AM »
Noal is correct - the hooks will last a long time but not forever. Make your checks payable to Gavin  :lol: :yesnod: :thumbup:

If it is just me and a partner doing a single lap, I clip the rope into the hooks and lower off (Alabama Hills for example). If we have a big group with a lot of people wanting a turn - then I set something up. Some of the chains have more space inside the links than others. The chain I use is not really biner friendly - you can clip the link but it usually puts the biner in somewhat of a bind. I carry at least two single length and a double length shoulder sling and just girth hitch through the chain links (if I can't clip the hangers). Lockers on the rope end, limiter knots to equalize.   

It would also be easy to swap the hangers on that route to Fixe hangers. The SMC's don't have enough room.

mynameismud

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 5760
    • Mudncrud
Re: This minor anchor situation (on Foreplay)
« Reply #27 on: February 15, 2021, 12:15:13 AM »
In case my post confuses anyone, my name is actually not Karen.
Cuias?
Here's to sweat in your eye

mudworm

  • Head Mistress
  • *
  • Posts: 1665
    • http://www.mxi2000.net
Re: This minor anchor situation (on Foreplay)
« Reply #28 on: February 15, 2021, 12:20:26 PM »
Cuias?
Hmmm... I was proud of my pop cultural in-ness knowing about the Karen reference, and this got me to scratch my head. Even Google does not tell me what this refers to. Just another proof of the obscurity here.
Inch by inch, I will get there.

F4?

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 5931
Re: This minor anchor situation (on Foreplay)
« Reply #29 on: February 15, 2021, 03:47:40 PM »
Missy hooks are perfect for the route.

Itís not getting traffic 7 days a week 366 days of the year.

They are fine.

Yesterday was warm and sunny, until the coulda moved in.

I'm not worthy.

NOAL

  • Mudders
  • **
  • Posts: 956
Re: This minor anchor situation (on Foreplay)
« Reply #30 on: February 15, 2021, 03:55:44 PM »
I think you meant 8 days a week. open 25 hours

mynameismud

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 5760
    • Mudncrud
Re: This minor anchor situation (on Foreplay)
« Reply #31 on: February 15, 2021, 07:25:56 PM »

Cuias es, Karen?
Here's to sweat in your eye

Gavin

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 411
    • Gavin Emmons Photography
Re: This minor anchor situation (on Foreplay)
« Reply #32 on: February 17, 2021, 07:35:38 AM »
For Foreplay my intention was that climbers setting up a toprope clip into the mussy hooks and lower off. The mussy hooks came courtesy of Bruce and ASCA and are high quality - they should last for a long time, and are easy to replace by opening the quicklinks and switching out the mussy hooks.

So mudworm in this case I would say definitely use the mussy hooks and don't bother building your own anchor. If you really feel like adding your own anchor gear into the mix, just add locking carabiners (and any runners you want) into the quicklinks, and not the chain links. The quicklinks are large enough that you could just push back the mussy hooks and add in your gear directly.

But again, I don't think this is necessary - the mussy hooks are there to be used and should work well.

As JC said, at some point the hangers themselves should get replaced with Fixe too.