Bay Area 80s training grounds?

[Runout]

Seeing as the gyms are closed and mini trax at the pinns is a once a week deal I figured I'd ask here. Does anyone know of any freeway expansion crack or traverse walls here on the bay?

The 88 jensen guide mentions a retaining wall at Foothill expressway and 280 in Cupertino. Anyone ever been?

Crystal springs reservoir dam has bolts still but seems like a quick trip to jail. I did find a rivet ladder on a bridge pillar that I want nothing to do with. There is one old hold glued to another pillar and some epoxy marks.

Seems like Lexington and Guadalupe are good options. Also glenn park and maybe farm hill boulder.

With the rain castle is often out.

Other old school training spots?

[mynameismud]

spent many hours at the 280 underpass.  Have no idea what it is like at this point in time.

[Runout]

Just checked Foothill out. Some of the traverse is intact. Many of the holds could use paint removal using a wire brush + power tool. There are two up routes that seem doable. A number of other up routes were scraped off ages ago. Probably a reasonable rainy day covid option while the gyms are closed. I wouldn't go after dark. A fair amount of folks living down by the tracks.

I do wonder what the spot was like in the heyday. And why did nobody bolt holds out the roof?

[mynameismud]

there always were a bunch down there.  The houses up above tolerated us cuz the climbers drove them out.  Don't waste your time removing the paint, climb over it, just makes it a bit harder. 

Holds were always breaking off and there was always sabotage but just keep going down and bring others.  With Gyms the Foothill wall slowly died out.  Only climbers can bring it back.  Some rock and some epoxy works better than others.

[F4?]

Ahhh, foothill  wall.

That was where I learned.

I have fond memories, like my 1st time there a cop came down took one looks and walked away.

Yes, the traverses were brutal and then a hold would pop...

I remember when a guy mounted a toilet to the wall in the tunnel...jut for kids to break.

I wonder if the ladder is still there.

Then there was the pocket traverse that some guy went crazy with a power drill.

Let me know if you want help replacing the holds...I think a wire brush on a power drill could stri p the paint, to then epoxy a hold back on.

Another one is stevens canyon Boulder....for the dry season.

[mungeclimber]

Bolts still on the pocket route on the West and South side of the tunnel at 280/Foothill?

Yeah, a few folks tried to bring the wall back 2=3 years ago now. But it takes a crew. pc-7 used to work pretty well as a glue.


Trying to make the last move off the "A3" aid line on the north side by a skyhook and toss to the anchor sling. Thought I was fucked and wasn't going to be able to reach the anchor b/c I couldn't really move around on the piece I was on, and then it occurred to me... 'like a lasso' goat rope that fuker! er, or what passes for a bitchen cowboy metaphor!

[F4?]

Ha Mungie, that line looked sketch they even labeled it A3 at the bottom.....just so you knew

[mungeclimber]

Ha Mungie, that line looked sketch they even labeled it A3 at the bottom.....just so you knew

Modern A2+ but only cuz you can crack your skull open on the steel train tracks!

[Runout]

I was thinking wire brush for the drill would get the tops of the holds cleaned up. The flat section of the hold that your fingers don't touch doesn't so much matter. There really only are a couple holds missing to make the traverse go end to end. I tried epoxying holds long ago - does duct tape + pc7 work? I'd think with the paint there would be a fair amount of cleanup so that the epoxy could stick to something. An angle grinder might be needed (I only have a corded one, but I do have a 4" diamond wheel for concrete).

On the vertical lead/TR section there are two studs that I could screw a hold on and then one broken hold that could be replaced.

[Runout]

Current state of things.

[mudworm]

I hope the gym opens soon. But they don't let you aid practice (even on your own rope).

[F4?]

Hmmm, yeah the diamond wheel would do the trick.

Worse case, deep breath, I use my roto hammer and drill a pocket.
But then that would get slick with paint.

That would strip the paint pretty quick.

I also have paint stripper...

Best would be to drill and mount holds in the tunnel going across the roof.

I am game to help out.
Ping me.

I could scare up an angle grinder....

[Crustanddust]

I've been out there with a buddy drilling a dry tool traverse in, finished yesterday and it is very fun, if anyone wants to get the picks out

the rock traverse on the main wall is nails but sill goes

I have hardware for anyone who wants to put something new in,

the other traverse needs a lot of work too but probably better to focus on the main one for now.

i have also scrapped, and prepped a few spots for new holds along the main traverse in the middle and i have some glue that will hopefully work

as far as prepping the concrete i have been using the sharp end of my hammer to break away the surface and then pounding it flat before scraping with a wire then regular brush.

bolt on holds are fun but become brittle quickly out there for some reason, and expensive unless anyones got a box of old ones laying around

[Crustanddust]

stoked to see this place come back to life

feel free to message me if ya want to go out there!

[F4?]

It hat crack was hard. I remember squiddo partner enhanced the foot hoods.

Still hard.

[Crustanddust]

Will be under the bridge glueing some holes on this afternoon

[Brad Young]

Will be under the bridge glueing some holes on this afternoon

By the way, Cooper, have you met both of the MudnCrud members who work for the San Jose PD?

[Runout]

I sent a couple PMs. I could try to meet folks around 4 today if anyone's going to be there. Happy to help glue.

[Crustanddust]

By the way, Cooper, have you met both of the MudnCrud members who work for the San Jose PD?

I have not, they might be sober good people to have on our side tho...

[Runout]

This appears to be Los Altos, not SJ. Is the idea to run this past a friend in SJ PD and see where this is on a scale from 0 to silver bracelets?