Just a good story about Pinnacles

[Zay]

hi all, again. I wrote another one, and i think you guys will like it. its essentially a revamped version of my original trip report for Macheye Direct... but heavier...

It begins with surfing, but I promise it will make sense at the end.

https://zay.design/2021/02/01/chapter-x-finding-the-nexus-machete-direct/

All thoughts and criticisms are appreciated, and I hope y'all enjoy.

[mynameismud]

Good read, thanks

[mungeclimber]

As one of my nephew's said to his parents after almost impaling himself on a bit of metal in the yard while riding a plastic sled...

I ALMOST DIED!!!

 

 

What followed next, was probably the most bad-fucking-ass 5.4 slab any climber had ever seen

YES! And twice on Sundays!

[Brad Young]

I suspect that I tied you for the most badass 5.4 slab.

In May 1989 (were you even alive yet, Zay) we did a multi day ascent of West Quarter Dome. It was John’s first wall, and, we were so slow on day two that we ended up bivying 200 feet from the top (I’d wanted to finish by headlamp, but John absolutely insisted that it was too dangerous).

Well we woke up to two inches of snow. A1 isn’t much fun in the snow. But the unprotected, long 5.4 finishing slab was my lead. Like you, I was flat terrified.

[germanShepherd]

hi all, again. I wrote another one, and i think you guys will like it. its essentially a revamped version of my original trip report for Macheye Direct... but heavier...

It begins with surfing, but I promise it will make sense at the end.

https://zay.design/2021/02/01/chapter-x-finding-the-nexus-machete-direct/

All thoughts and criticisms are appreciated, and I hope y'all enjoy.

Great read Zay, thanks for the writeup! I particularly enjoyed your description of the resignation and good 'leading emotions' of committing to the last pitch :-) It is badass 5.4 slab indeed!

[Zay]

dudes,

thanks for reading guys!!!

germanShephard,

I had to go on a bit of a google quest... and to my best efforts, canis luto means "Dog Mud," yeah?

Nice.

[germanShepherd]

dudes,

thanks for reading guys!!!

germanShephard,

I had to go on a bit of a google quest... and to my best efforts, canis luto means "Dog Mud," yeah?

Nice.

Haha, yeah, it's Mud Dog. Something I felt fitting for this forum, and an aspect of my personality that Pinnacles has fundamentally altered...

[mudworm]

Held off reading it until today at breakfast because I didn't believe there could be "a good story about Pinnacles." 

Thanks for sharing your writing (i.e. no photos) with the forum.

...Lizzy and I looked at each other like teenagers with their first cigarette. Who could resist a little, harmless mischief?

Sorry, can't relate.

[JC w KC redux]

How about 'like a couple teenagers jonesing for a nicotine fix so bad they dug old butt-outs out of the car ashtray" 

[NOAL]

I used to take the partly smoked cigs out but I collect enough tobacco to roll a new one with rolling papers.

It's been about 17 years since I quit. 

[JC w KC redux]

I used to take the partly smoked cigs out but I collect enough tobacco to roll a new one with rolling papers.
It's been about 17 years since I quit.

No way! You gotta uncrumple the butt-out and then blaze the staleness to get the full effect!

[waldo]

I climbed MD and other more devious routes to the top of Machete many times in the eighties. That long stretch below the middle tower was never among my favorites. After my first half dozen times up that pitch, I just finished it 4th class. Nothing placed in the crack will hold a significant fall and the debris would likely kill your belayer. Of course, if you don’t like your belayer . . .  By the by, I took the Tower Bypass a number of times, hoping to find better climbing and a bit of protection. I never found the reputed bolt. Is it truly there? Might somebody who has seen it take me up there and show it to me?

[Brad Young]

By the by, I took the Tower Bypass a number of times, hoping to find better climbing and a bit of protection. I never found the reputed bolt. Is it truly there? Might somebody who has seen it take me up there and show it to me?

Count me in.

That's on my list of things to check out for the new book.

Post COVID (did you two get our shots yet?!).

[waldo]

Count me in.

That's on my list of things to check out for the new book.

Post COVID (did you two get our shots yet?!).

Still too young - just 74 - but old enough to buy beer.

[mynameismud]

It's been about 17 years since I quit.

About 30 since I quit