Open project on Voyeur Wall?

[Runout]

There is a project on Voyeur Wall on the right before the chimney to the right of Sticky Monkey. I heard it was abandoned. Does anyone know if this is correct? If so I'd like to give it a go.

[NOAL]

It would be nice to decide what to do about this project because it it is the first bolt you see when you reach the wall which is confusing now that people are starting to climb the routes.

I have not climbed the route Peep Show that is above it.  So cant really say where the project would end.  Gavin might have an idea.

The project is Clink's.  You can DM him.

[JC w KC redux]

it is the first bolt you see when you reach the wall which is confusing now that people are starting to climb the routes.
The project is Clink's. 

My suggestion would be to camo the hangers or remove them and give back to clink.

On the other hand - he'd probably just say go for it/finish it. I'll shoot him an email - we talk frequently.

[clink]

 Have at the project and any others that I have not touched in the last year.
 I bought the most wonderful cinnamon roll at a bakery in Monterey yesterday, mnnnm! It looked like the Balconies covered in snow, with cinnamon waterchutes.

[Runout]

Thanks Clink!

We were there today. Looks like fun from below. Hoping the rock is as good as Sticky Monkey.

Cooper, get yer bolts!

[NOAL]

Sticky Monkey is really nice.  Did you like it?

[Gavin]

Runout and others - here are some more details on that project at Voyeur Wall.

I have climbed it on toprope a couple times, from the Sticky Monkey anchors, after I finished establishing Peep Show. I would strongly recommend climbing the first pitch of Peep Show (or Sticky Monkey) and then dropping down to the project to try climbing through it before working on it.

The movement above the couple of bolts on the project is extremely thin and tenuous. I would say at least very hard 5.11. The rock is pretty good overall, but there are some loose chunks as well. I was able to make use of some very small crimps and edges for feet, but it is very difficult climbing on sheer vertical rock.

I'm not sure I would say the line is particularly fun above the existing bolts, and it did not seem like there were sufficient stances and hook points to make it feasible for ground-up hand-drilling.

So in summary I took some hard looks at it (and climbed the distance up to the Sticky Monkey anchor a couple times) but ultimately abandoned the idea of trying to push the line further - I didn't feel like it was really worth the effort (or perhaps possible).

In my opinion, the best course would be to remove the hangers on that project and camo the bolts (or remove them) so that climbers don't get confused by it in the future, but that's just me.

[JC w KC redux]

^^^

If Gavin says it's not worth pursuing, I'd take that as gospel.

Sounds like it should just be chopped.

clink said he was fine with whatever.

The stainless studs break off with just a few Brad whacks.
 

[Runout]

Would folks be OK giving us a crack at the project? Sheer vert sustained 11 sounds like a lot of fun.

As far as confusion - why not just list this as a project in the new routes section? That's pretty common.

If it doesn't go, Cooper has a bolt remover. We can pull, patch, and hand back hangers to someone.

[Brad Young]

Would folks be OK giving us a crack at the project? Sheer vert sustained 11 sounds like a lot of fun.

As far as confusion - why not just list this as a project in the new routes section? That's pretty common.
If it doesn't go, Cooper has a bolt remover. We can pull, patch, and hand back hangers to someone.

It is pretty clear from what I am reading here that you're welcome to go for it. And the best (warmer) part of the season is still coming up for that wall.

Do you have experience bolting steep stuff from hooks and the like? Or even from aiders if you want the bolts really close? Cooper looks pretty light and sounded cocky enough to hang from hooks (or hook) while he drills. Maybe try a tungsten-core Hurry Pec drill holder with mighty blows per swing.

(That last comment was humor that won't be obvious unless you're also reading the new routes sticky thread.)

[Brad Young]

Would folks be OK giving us a crack at the project? Sheer vert sustained 11 sounds like a lot of fun.

As far as confusion - why not just list this as a project in the new routes section? That's pretty common.

If it doesn't go, Cooper has a bolt remover. We can pull, patch, and hand back hangers to someone.

And listing projects in the new routes sticky thread? As if it isn't enough work already to keep a new routes list current with all us yahoos running around putting new stuff up. Nope, too much work, too complex, and, in some cases (not this one) it would divulge secrets I've been trusted to keep (regarding what project is where and by whom).

Two lists, one public and one private. I would, however, be happy to give out information about any given project if and when questions are asked (if nothing else I could give out the names of those working on it). Call me any time.

[Gavin]

Runout - go for it if you want. Clink, Mud, and I worked on it initially, backed off given lack of options for hooks / stances, and I would guess I am the only person that has subsequently tried it on toprope and considered it further.

Again, I would suggest getting up to the Sticky Monkey anchor first (via climbing Sticky Monkey or rapping down from the first pitch Peep Show anchor) and trying out the moves / sequences on toprope before committing to bolting work, but that's just my opinion.

[Crustanddust]

my hurricane is still in the car...

seems like that cliff could use a little more variety.

with all the rock coming off that cliff everything is going to climb into the hard 11s sooner or later, especially with Tony or should i say 'Crusher' pulling down on those things.

looks fun from the ground and i wont be able to look at that wall the right way until i give it a try (not that i don't trust your opinions)

if the route does and up being abandoned is the notion to pull the studs or hammer them in? I find it hard to imagine the holes were drilled deep enough to hammer the stud all the way in?

appreciate the input guys! the routes that are complete are superb sticky monkey is $$$

[Crustanddust]

I didn't get on it myself but two of the folks in out group did the 10 in the chimney and said that was fantastic as well, took a fall transferring onto the face when his handhold broke. second pitch was fun and did not find any subsequent gear

[Brad Young]

... i wont be able to look at that wall the right way until i give it a try (not that i don't trust your opinions)

This is a legitimate way of thinking about it!

if the route does and up being abandoned is the notion to pull the studs or hammer them in? I find it hard to imagine the holes were drilled deep enough to hammer the stud all the way in?

appreciate the input guys! the routes that are complete are superb sticky monkey is $$$

Easy enough to break the stud off and then pound in what is left as far as it will go. This will usually leave enough of an indentation that patching material fills it just right.

[JC w KC redux]

Easy enough to break the stud off and then pound in what is left as far as it will go.
This will usually leave enough of an indentation that patching material fills it just right.

I used a bolt shaft as a "punch" to pound in a broken off bolt and it worked nicely.

[Runout]

Yeah. Sorry about breaking holds. The crux hold on the far left 11b snapped half off. It still goes, just a tad harder now. We were on Sticky Money on Sunday and that really sweet looking knob at the top came right off when I grabbed it and I went flying (first pinns lead fall due to a broken hold after 30 years). I saw that the rope flips over to the project real easy. Just didn't go for it because I hadn't yet heard it was open. The rock on Sticky Monkey is so good I figured this thing was well worth a go.

[Brad Young]

Yeah. Sorry about breaking holds.

Yeah, sorry. Because no-one else on this site has ever broken a hold at Pinnacles 

[NOAL]

The rock on Sticky Monkey is so good I figured this thing was well worth a go.

The rock may be decent on that line and it might go but I think what Gavin is getting at is aesthetically how good is it and is it as good as the other routes at that crag? I can see Cooper's point that it would add some variety.

This particular project to me is a reflection of Clink's aesthetics.  Clink likes those steep bouldering style starts. With that said each of us that works on new routes find features that we find appealing. I can respect why initially he was drawn to that section of rock.  Another cool Clinker style route is Shadows of Madness down by Maniac's delight.  It's a fun and quality route with a similar steep start and engaging climbing all the way to the anchor.

When we are putting up new routes sometimes we dont always get it right.   If things appear to be going in that direction there is nothing wrong with cutting your losses and then being responsible and cleaning up.

 I went out a couple of weekends ago and looked at some potential new routes.  A couple.of things checked  the boxes for what to me makes a good route but ultimately they did.not check all the boxes.  In one instance, over 90 ft ? Check.  Good rock quality? Check.  Interesting features?  Not really. Short vertical sections with potentially long low angle sub 5.6 climbing.  I spent a couple of hours sitting looking ,contemplating, and passed.  I felt good about my decision.

Like Gavin said maybe TR it first.  I have no problem with previewing like this if it helps to make a good decision.

[mynameismud]

Would folks be OK giving us a crack at the project? Sheer vert sustained 11 sounds like a lot of fun.

As far as confusion - why not just list this as a project in the new routes section? That's pretty common.

If it doesn't go, Cooper has a bolt remover. We can pull, patch, and hand back hangers to someone.

I helped Clink establish this.  I say go for it.