Author Topic: Open project on Voyeur Wall?  (Read 3157 times)

NOAL

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Re: Open project on Voyeur Wall?
« Reply #20 on: March 02, 2021, 02:11:01 PM »
Quote
I say go for it.

Yeah, please don't take my last post as being against trying it.  It will most likely be a fun and challenging experience no matter the outcome. 

Crustanddust

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Re: Open project on Voyeur Wall?
« Reply #21 on: March 02, 2021, 07:20:20 PM »
no worries at all we will for sure top rope the thing before drilling any holes. and once again appreciate all the feedback.

you guys own more than one hook? gotta lay off the IPA's fellas

NOAL

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Re: Open project on Voyeur Wall?
« Reply #22 on: March 02, 2021, 07:40:19 PM »
In this situation you will most likely only get to use one if you are lucky Think light ideas. Miller light , BLL, Natty light.....

Runout

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Re: Open project on Voyeur Wall?
« Reply #23 on: March 03, 2021, 06:29:12 AM »
Hey Cooper. I've got a whole assortment of hooks, beaks, and other great things for generating lead falls.

NOAL

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Re: Open project on Voyeur Wall?
« Reply #24 on: March 03, 2021, 10:26:14 AM »
It's good to have a selection.  I have four hooks that are all slightly different radius and tip shape.  I like the petzl with the sewn loop the most. 

Brad Young

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Re: Open project on Voyeur Wall?
« Reply #25 on: March 03, 2021, 10:39:15 AM »
Alright, it's time for a sophomoric "who's got the biggest hook" contest.

I do. There's no question about it.

My big hook might weigh more than Cooper. It's big enough that, if it were placed in the right place, a person could hang a portaledge on it and bivy.

Photos later (I'm at work right now).




mungeclimber

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Re: Open project on Voyeur Wall?
« Reply #26 on: March 03, 2021, 11:28:27 AM »
PSA... Boat anchors aren't hooks.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Open project on Voyeur Wall?
« Reply #27 on: March 03, 2021, 11:48:54 AM »

PSA... Boat anchors aren't hooks.


Ooh, ooh. I'd never thought of doing that!!

Gavin

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Re: Open project on Voyeur Wall?
« Reply #28 on: March 03, 2021, 12:43:49 PM »
Yeah. Sorry about breaking holds. The crux hold on the far left 11b snapped half off. It still goes, just a tad harder now. We were on Sticky Money on Sunday and that really sweet looking knob at the top came right off when I grabbed it and I went flying (first pinns lead fall due to a broken hold after 30 years). I saw that the rope flips over to the project real easy. Just didn't go for it because I hadn't yet heard it was open. The rock on Sticky Monkey is so good I figured this thing was well worth a go.

Runout - no worries. It's better to get the loose holds removed so the higher quality holds remain. I know which holds you are referring to... On Sticky Monkey I had thought in the past couple years about just removing the top knob given the loose quality, so I'm glad it finally came off (and that you hopefully didn't get injured).

Brad Young

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Re: Open project on Voyeur Wall?
« Reply #29 on: March 03, 2021, 06:22:58 PM »
Alright, here's a standard Black Diamond oval carabiner and one of their hooks:




Annnd, the same items shown together with my big hooks. These suckers inspire confidence (if one can find a place for them, of course):




Now, about that boat anchor....


mynameismud

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Re: Open project on Voyeur Wall?
« Reply #30 on: March 04, 2021, 04:05:00 PM »
I have a couple dozen hooks
Here's to sweat in your eye

Runout

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Re: Open project on Voyeur Wall?
« Reply #31 on: August 14, 2021, 05:21:08 PM »
We got up and tried this last spring. It's too dirty. It just seems like it will never clean up. The moss makes it pretty impossible in the spring - think dirty, wet edges that you just cannot get to clean off. If you could somehow power wash it, then maybe it might be good for one season. So, if someone wants to invent a hand powered power washer and haul up 100 gallons of water up there then we can do it!.

The moves are all there. Feels like 11+/12-, maybe similar to Truth or Consequences but not as good. The hardest part of linking everything would be slipping off dirty holds. For sure there are spots you could get in hooks, beaks and cams. There must be better stuff out there to spend your time on.

Probably best to pull the bolt unless someone else is really motivated.

Brad Young

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Re: Open project on Voyeur Wall?
« Reply #32 on: August 14, 2021, 05:48:29 PM »

There must be better stuff out there to spend your time on.


Sounds like a good summary... but I'll bet you're glad that you at least tried?

Runout

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Re: Open project on Voyeur Wall?
« Reply #33 on: August 18, 2021, 09:21:57 PM »
Happy to have tried it. Alas it was not a Sticky Monkey 2.

Really wish I had good ideas for other new routes that were not epic hikes.