Author Topic: Good places to top rope on the West Side with climbers that can't lead belay  (Read 1715 times)

traslin

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Taking out some newer outdoor climbers that can't lead belay, and I was wondering if there are good spots to top rope on the West Side. I see from the Friends of Pinnacles page, http://www.pinnacles.org/park/faqs.php#faq_13, that Bouldering Rock and Passion Play Wall have some good options, but I was hoping for at least one top rope you can walk off with a better view. Thanks!

JC w KC redux

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Taking out some newer outdoor climbers that can't lead belay, and I was wondering if there are good spots to top rope on the West Side. I see from the Friends of Pinnacles page, http://www.pinnacles.org/park/faqs.php#faq_13, that Bouldering Rock and Passion Play Wall have some good options, but I was hoping for at least one top rope you can walk off with a better view. Thanks!

The simple answer is only a few.
The west side is more about adventure.
My suggestion would be - go to The Big Bad West (next to/left of Passion Play) and teach your partners how to lead belay.
You can easily toprope it too and then Passion Play.
You can also lead The Lamb with a new lead belayer - since it is almost a free solo.
There are big, slingable knobs above the only bolt (take several runners).

Big Nixon has a two bolt anchor - the old belay tree is totally dead. Easy scramble up there.

FOP also recommends The Rookie and Even Coyotes Like It Doggie Style. (assuming you have the guidebook)

If you want a nice view and a huge summit - continue past the Tilting Terrace access trail to the "steps" on the left.
Go up the steps and follow the access trail to the back of The Flumes - then scramble up the 3rd class to the top.
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waldo

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JC covered it. I'll add that if you keep on toward Balconies you'll reach Smiling Simian on the left at the trail's summit. If you are comfortable climbing 4th class rock for forty feet, then head up the east face of Simian, staying to the right for the easiest path. it's possible to top-rope several good routes on the north face, as well as the easy east face route. The summit is huge and scenic.  I've taken many beginners there over the years. Bring some long slings.

traslin

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If you want a nice view and a huge summit - continue past the Tilting Terrace access trail to the "steps" on the left.
Go up the steps and follow the access trail to the back of The Flumes - then scramble up the 3rd class to the top.

Thanks for all the leads.

I have the guide book. The route I think you are talking about on The Flumes is 699, Yo Momma Lives in That Cave. I'm pretty sure I've identified the scramble in the picture below, but can you mark where the two bolt anchor is on Yo Momma?


JC w KC redux

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Thanks for all the leads.
I have the guide book. The route I think you are talking about on The Flumes is 699, Yo Momma Lives in That Cave. I'm pretty sure I've identified the scramble in the picture below, but can you mark where the two bolt anchor is on Yo Momma?

Your label on the picture is pretty close.
I didn't mention Smiling Simeon because I didn't know if you'd be comfortable free soloing 5.0 R (that is what the 4th class route waldo is referring to is actually rated).
The scramble up the Flumes uphill side is totally obvious when you reach the highest point of ground below it. It is well worn and has many nice holds and really solid rock. I haven't actually scrambled down to the Yo Momma anchor but that is how you get to it. When you top out the 3rd class, move climber's left to find the anchor. It will be down on the end. You will also see where clink and Aaron started bolting Yo Momma a few years ago (they never finished it).
FOP also mentions Osiris and Chockstone but I think the other spots are better. Save the latter for when you want to lead and follow. Chockstone is especially fun but Walk the Plank is not conducive to toproping.

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Zay

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Not that I am a good example (for anything, really) but I have many times slapped an ATC on a newby and walked them through it as I led, even falling (announced).

Obviously there are stipulations... route choice and my partner's personality being key factors...

The 5.9's and 5.8's on The Flumes are very mellow...

mudworm

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It's not just lead belay (a Grigri will be a better choice); it's also the lowering part that needs some practice. The rumor has it that a climber many people on this board know was once dropped by someone while lowering due to losing control of the rope and panicking.

Maybe some time spent in the gym (even just to learn how to operate device and rope for lowering) is not a bad idea. Planet Granite in SF has really great views, and it's right by the beach under Golden Gate.
Inch by inch, I will get there.

mungeclimber

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The rumor has it that a climber many people on this board know was once dropped by someone while lowering due to losing control of the rope and panicking.


How did you hear about me and that experience?
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mudworm

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How did you hear about me and that experience?

You too?  :eeeek:
Inch by inch, I will get there.

mungeclimber

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Relatively short fall/drop. Gym padded landing.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

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FYI
Yo Mama is a route on the Monolith.
Here's to sweat in your eye

JC w KC redux

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FYI
Yo Mama is a route on the Monolith.

I was just being lazy since I had already typed out the full name once in the previous post.

Also wasn't aware the route name police had surveillance set up.
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mynameismud

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always
watching
Here's to sweat in your eye

Zay

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Wazowski...

traslin

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Thanks again for all the tips. We did some laps on Passion Play, which had some pretty fun, more difficult variations if you stuck to the water chute.

We all scrambled up The Shepherd and The Rookie, but I didn't have enough gear to setup an anchor to top rope them. View from the top of The Rookie was especially nice. I'll be ready for them next time.

Much fun was had.

JC w KC redux

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Thanks again for all the tips. We did some laps on Passion Play, which had some pretty fun, more difficult variations if you stuck to the water chute.

We all scrambled up The Shepherd and The Rookie, but I didn't have enough gear to setup an anchor to top rope them. View from the top of The Rookie was especially nice. I'll be ready for them next time.

Much fun was had.

Glad you had fun.
I forgot to mention Stretch Seven. The approach scramble to the anchor is a bit hairy. Not sure how well it would toprope yo-yo style but you could also just belay from the top. It's a decent, fairly long slab climb. I replaced all the bolts with Noal a few years ago.

I still highly recommend using The Big Bad West to teach lead belaying.

I find what you said about Passion Play amusing. Every time I see someone leading that climb they move right to the big, round, embedded lodestone rather than staying in the chute. There are slippery slopers in that chute and the crux lacks protection.
It's a long fall on low angle terrain if you blow it leading. 

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