Author Topic: Discovery Wall Rap question  (Read 3495 times)

djh650

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Discovery Wall Rap question
« on: April 01, 2021, 04:03:36 PM »
I haven't been to pinns, let alone the east side for some time. If my memory is correct, there is def more than 1 anchor to rappel from on discovery wall? I feel like I can remember a couple that didn't involve rapping down from a TR anchor in use. Than again was leading most, so maybe they all sucked for rappel.

F4?

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Re: Discovery Wall Rap question
« Reply #1 on: April 01, 2021, 04:26:17 PM »
Most routes, (except say wet kiss/ verdict) if they do top out have bolts at the top, but not for rappel.
IF there is no on on Swallows Crack below, you can rappel from the top of Jorgies' continuation.
Bolts are on a huge boulder above.

The walk-off is pleasant and is a nice break from the crowds.
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Discovery Wall Rap question
« Reply #2 on: April 02, 2021, 06:51:01 AM »
I haven't been to pinns, let alone the east side for some time. If my memory is correct, there is def more than 1 anchor to rappel from on discovery wall? I feel like I can remember a couple that didn't involve rapping down from a TR anchor in use. Than again was leading most, so maybe they all sucked for rappel.

That anchor you took the screenshot of on mtn proj is above Swallow Crack. It has been problematic over the years because people toprope from it and put weird forces on it. It was never meant to be a toprope anchor. It was installed some years ago as a convenience anchor and people kept working the bolts loose by toproping from it. I worked to restore it repeatedly and finally installed a 3rd bolt with a ring (which you can see is not being used in the picture on mtn proj). I stop by there periodically to check it. That is the only spot setup to rappel from the top. People should not be using it as a toprope anchor but since they can just walk to it...
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Zay

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Re: Discovery Wall Rap question
« Reply #3 on: April 02, 2021, 07:06:45 AM »
I too haven't been to Pinns for a hot minute, but if my memory serves me correctly, there is a chained anchor just to the right of where Portent tops out, at about eye level... and I'm fairly certain that I use my 60m rope to get down.

Good to see your username again djh650.

mudworm

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Re: Discovery Wall Rap question
« Reply #4 on: April 02, 2021, 08:27:51 AM »
Thanks for fact checking me, djh650.

It was never meant to be a toprope anchor. It was installed some years ago as a convenience anchor and people kept working the bolts loose by toproping from it.

Thanks for the background, JC. Are there separate bolts close by for people to set up TR anchor from for Swallow Crack (granted, without rappel chains)? I didn't know that. If so, I'll be happy to spread the word on MP. Pretty sure this rappel anchor will continue to be used for a TR setup for the rest of the universe time, but any diversion of traffic is still a good thing.

After I took that photo while waiting for the TR party to complete, they lowered the climber from half way when she did not want to continue. They were happy to have us carry down their lockers for them after they pulled the rope because otherwise, they'd have to hike up to retrieve. Neither my partner nor I said anything because it was apparent that among the big group (multiple families with young kids), it was one older guy who took care of the setup for this group out there having a good time. Although I firmly believe that it's usually not a good practice for people to clip into the bottom rings of a rappel chain, I didn't want to cause any embarrassment to the gentleman, esp. when it's not an imminent safety issue.

At the Monolith, the anchor above P.O.D can be used for three routes (whether intentional or not), and I have seen people clipping into the bottom rappel rings for their anchor setup. When the opportunity is right, I sometimes say something about it and pretty much every time, I get the friendly positive feedback that , "oh, yeah, I never thought about it. Thanks for pointing that out."
Inch by inch, I will get there.

F4?

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Re: Discovery Wall Rap question
« Reply #5 on: April 02, 2021, 08:37:38 AM »
Yes, JC you are correct those anchors were a recent addition...last 15-20 years.
Yes, you see folks top roping off off them, good god what odd directions.
That’s when I just walk off and avoid the madness.

I usually will use if it’s quiet around the base.

Another devious way to get down is to setup a top top on broken arrow.
But it’s way more fun and rewarding to lead it.
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mudworm

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Re: Discovery Wall Rap question
« Reply #6 on: April 02, 2021, 08:39:33 AM »
Another devious way to get down is to setup a top top on broken arrow.

Are you kidding?

That’s when I just walk off and avoid the madness.

When was last time you rappelled there? With your son James, I'd think walking around is always the safer way down. The rappel goes straight down and lands you around the corner far away from the base of the Swallow Crack. Whoever put the rappel station up there years ago was not a stranger to Discovery Wall for sure.
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Re: Discovery Wall Rap question
« Reply #7 on: April 02, 2021, 12:55:16 PM »
James loves that rappel.
We've done it more than a few times.

Again, when there are not parties below.
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clink

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Re: Discovery Wall Rap question
« Reply #8 on: April 02, 2021, 02:12:13 PM »

 Once, we equalized several sturdy groups of chaparral for a rappel anchor off Discovery.

 Why would someone in their right mind, skip that ring to clip into?
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Discovery Wall Rap question
« Reply #9 on: April 02, 2021, 03:16:03 PM »
  Why would someone in their right mind, skip that ring to clip into?

Three points to equalize was too much work/thought.

Behavior like this will continue to work the two 3/8 bolts loose.

Last time I checked (2-1-21) everything was tight and I attribute that to the 1/2 inch bolt with the ring.
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mynameismud

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Re: Discovery Wall Rap question
« Reply #10 on: April 06, 2021, 12:28:14 PM »
Part of the problem is some unexperienced climbers are uncomfortable sharing anchors.  Before the top anchors on Between a Rock and a Hard Place were moved down there were multiple confrontations where folks on Portent would get upset when someone from Between a Rock and a Hard Place would try and share that anchor.  I had that happen to me.  They were TR'ing and I topped out and wanted to clip in and belay my partner up.  They did not want to share.

It should be common practice at area's like this for the person who is TR'ing to setup the belay off of either the bolts or chain links using slings so other folks can use the bottom links to rap.  But, I think it will be difficult to communicate to the general user base that this is safe.

Here's to sweat in your eye

F4?

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Re: Discovery Wall Rap question
« Reply #11 on: April 06, 2021, 02:49:08 PM »
Heaven for bid folks go climb snake dike or some popular route where you do have to share anchors.

Still I’d make Mr Mud suffer. But in his tight golden slippers...
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mynameismud

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Re: Discovery Wall Rap question
« Reply #12 on: April 06, 2021, 06:47:09 PM »
purple slippers are not for snake hiking
Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

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Re: Discovery Wall Rap question
« Reply #13 on: April 07, 2021, 07:44:38 AM »
Part of the problem is some unexperienced climbers are uncomfortable sharing anchors.  Before the top anchors on Between a Rock and a Hard Place were moved down there were multiple confrontations where folks on Portent would get upset when someone from Between a Rock and a Hard Place would try and share that anchor.  I had that happen to me.  They were TR'ing and I topped out and wanted to clip in and belay my partner up.  They did not want to share.

It should be common practice at area's like this for the person who is TR'ing to setup the belay off of either the bolts or chain links using slings so other folks can use the bottom links to rap.  But, I think it will be difficult to communicate to the general user base that this is safe.

I'm fairly certain I could communicate my need. "I'm going to clip into your shit show. Don't move my stuff without checking with me first."

Optional "DIE" is of course optional. :)
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mynameismud

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Re: Discovery Wall Rap question
« Reply #14 on: April 07, 2021, 05:54:07 PM »
I think I said the first part.
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Brad Young

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Re: Discovery Wall Rap question
« Reply #15 on: April 07, 2021, 06:07:29 PM »

Don't move my stuff without checking with me first."


You know, I wonder if only a snowmobiling, rusty, once-Pinnacles climber (notice I didn't say "ex-Pinnacles climber," yet) would trust them to obey this command?


mungeclimber

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Re: Discovery Wall Rap question
« Reply #16 on: April 20, 2021, 12:54:18 PM »
I set a spring loaded booby trap to prevent premature unclip!  :o

Once-pinnacles climber? I assure you I have been there at least twice. pft! lol
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Gavin

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Re: Discovery Wall Rap question
« Reply #17 on: May 05, 2021, 06:11:00 AM »
Are there separate bolts close by for people to set up TR anchor from for Swallow Crack (granted, without rappel chains)? I didn't know that. If so, I'll be happy to spread the word on MP. Pretty sure this rappel anchor will continue to be used for a TR setup for the rest of the universe time, but any diversion of traffic is still a good thing.

mudworm - I don't think of the rappel anchor as the proper top-out point for Swallow Crack. The anchor bolts for that are ~15 feet left of the rappel station... That is where the Swallow Crack line naturally tops out on the Discovery Wall summit.

Swallow Crack isn't really a good route in general to set up a TR because of the up-and-left movement for the whole route... It is possible with gear back-clipped but not ideal. Following a leader makes the most sense for that line, in my opinion.

Anyway, just my thoughts if you are following up with details on MP.

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Re: Discovery Wall Rap question
« Reply #18 on: May 05, 2021, 02:25:39 PM »
^^^
No more comments on that thread but some dude says there is a stuck #1 camalot on Rat Race if you want a free cam.
It's probably brand new.
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briham89

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Re: Discovery Wall Rap question
« Reply #19 on: May 05, 2021, 02:31:56 PM »
Quote
some dude says there is a stuck #1 camalot on Rat Race if you want a free cam

On my way....