Author Topic: Climbed The Flying None yesterday, it was so sick  (Read 1854 times)

traslin

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Climbed The Flying None yesterday, it was so sick
« on: May 31, 2021, 10:57:29 AM »
Just wanted to say thanks to Brad et al for putting up a beautiful new route on The Citadel.

My buddy and I got an early start yesterday and were able to climb this before it got too hot. Started climbing around 9 and were done rappelling a little after 1. The chimney on the first pitch was interesting and a little difficult to get through with a backpack on. My buddy was so stoked to place a #4 cam in Pinnacles, but frankly, I'm not sure if it would have stuck if we whipped on it :D.

The second pitch has a nice flow and is very well protected. Went off route once but figured it out pretty quickly because all the holds started to be covered in algae.

Two well-deserved stars.

Brad Young

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Re: Climbed The Flying None yesterday, it was so sick
« Reply #1 on: June 01, 2021, 02:27:25 PM »
Thanks for the comments, traslin. I guess I am old though. When I read your title I had to ask my 25 year old daughter if "...it was so sick" in the title meant that a good or bad post was coming (she interpreted your words correctly).

The route does desperately needs about four inches of rain to clean it up. Given what we know about California weather, maybe by the end of next season we'll see it noticeably cleaner?


traslin

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Re: Climbed The Flying None yesterday, it was so sick
« Reply #2 on: June 01, 2021, 05:19:59 PM »
Ha, I'm middle aged myself, so your daughter must be a true woman of culture to interpret my 90's lingo.

Some rain to clean it would be nice, but I thought it was pretty clean already especially considering how new the route is. I guess you guys did a pretty good job scrubbing it down. My foot only slipped on debris once, but thankfully I had a bomber right hand that kept me from coming off the wall.

Would be happy to give it another go next year to see how it develops.

russ p

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Re: Climbed The Flying None yesterday, it was so sick
« Reply #3 on: June 15, 2021, 03:18:20 PM »
I have to agree with the two stars. Climbed this yesterday with a good friend and we both had a blast. Got up early and walked over from the east side, a little hot by the time our feet touched back onto horizontal ground, but so worth it. Thanks Brad & company for putting up a fun/stellar route. Some long pitches and multi pitch even...we will come back for seconds on this one for sure!

Brad Young

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Re: Climbed The Flying None yesterday, it was so sick
« Reply #4 on: June 15, 2021, 05:16:29 PM »
Nice. I really didn't think this would get a second ascent until next season. The surprise started with BAP and Waldo doing the second ascent the weekend after the first. And now look.


mudworm

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Re: Climbed The Flying None yesterday, it was so sick
« Reply #5 on: June 15, 2021, 08:54:29 PM »
Brad has a hit! All the days spent on it paid off.

Climbed this yesterday .... Got up early and walked over from the east side, a little hot by the time our feet touched back onto horizontal ground...

Can I ask how early? 2am? This below is the forecast for the next few days. It couldn't have been much cooler yesterday, or could it?

Inch by inch, I will get there.

russ p

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Re: Climbed The Flying None yesterday, it was so sick
« Reply #6 on: June 15, 2021, 09:35:13 PM »
mudworm we woke at the campground at 5:15 and were walking by 6:00.  The morning was cool and pleasant. It was hot by the time we finished but not too unbearable.

russ p

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Re: Climbed The Flying None yesterday, it was so sick
« Reply #7 on: June 15, 2021, 09:38:54 PM »
Much hotter the following days actually. I think the high was 88 on Monday. Not ideal but doable.

Brad Young

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Re: Climbed The Flying None yesterday, it was so sick
« Reply #8 on: June 15, 2021, 09:44:51 PM »
It might be becoming a "hit," and that would be nice. But let's not downplay the amount of time and effort that Jennifer put in on it too. Days and days with me on that thing.

mudworm

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Re: Climbed The Flying None yesterday, it was so sick
« Reply #9 on: June 16, 2021, 09:15:38 AM »
Correction: Brad and Jennifer have a hit!

mudworm we woke at the campground at 5:15 and were walking by 6:00.

An alpine start at Pinnacles. Good call!
Inch by inch, I will get there.

BAP

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Re: Climbed The Flying None yesterday, it was so sick
« Reply #10 on: June 16, 2021, 11:15:21 AM »
Thank you Brad and Mudworm.  I am so glad to hear people enjoyed the climb. 

waldo

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Re: Climbed The Flying None yesterday, it was so sick
« Reply #11 on: June 16, 2021, 02:43:24 PM »

An alpine start at Pinnacles. Good call!


Holmgren and I used to rendezvous at 3AM in the parking lot of the Soledad McDonald's. We'd hike in to the Gargoyle area via headlamp, arriving there at dawn or so with many comfortable hours of July and August climbing ahead of us. We always (except for once) headed out just as the day got prickly. Alas, the locked gate precludes such tactics now. 

Jennifer and Brad deserve praise indeed! Flying None is a top drawer adventure.

mungeclimber

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Re: Climbed The Flying None yesterday, it was so sick
« Reply #12 on: June 18, 2021, 01:18:19 PM »
Sik is spelled with no c. Just in case anyone was concerned about proper texting protocol.  8) :o
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

clink

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Re: Climbed The Flying None yesterday, it was so sick
« Reply #13 on: June 18, 2021, 08:35:44 PM »

 Should we be worried that you know that?
Causing trouble when not climbing.

F4?

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Re: Climbed The Flying None yesterday, it was so sick
« Reply #14 on: June 21, 2021, 02:32:28 PM »
Waldo, how about clipping an umbrella to your harness, next to a can of sun spray spf 100.
Of course a 1 gallon of water on the follower. Or a haul pack w a soft cooler....

I might be onto something.....

Nothing beats our resurrection ace the during 114 temps.
I'm not worthy.