Mungie goes to Pinnacles - what to climb? and i need a partner. f4 jets early

[mungeclimber]

If I get in a mood, I'd likely only stumble out to Flumes, rage at the all the tourists and meander to some non descript wall, complain about having lived behind a monitor for the better part of 17 years, then manage to only climb a single pitch.

Fortunately, my beloved spousal unit, is going too. So I'm thinking a plan is best.

I have to admit, Flying None sounds great. Partly because Costanoan was the scene of one our first dates where, on the approach, she took a header into the dirt tangled in the climbing pack and gear she carried up. I thought she got bit by a snake the way she screamed bloody murder.  After that date, it was her fault she decided to stick around.  

Though I suppose the spelunking in Santa Cruz really is really the red flag she should have been watching for.

I digress.

So where to?  Is West side the place to be so as to avoid crowds? What time do I have to hit the gate/lot/entrance station these days to prevent a total cluster that will send me straight to Salinas for good Mexican food instead?

More importantly will Bob W be there?

And last, are Bud Light Limes still illegal inside the MONUMENT?

 

[Brad Young]

Probably ought to go up into the High Peaks. Best chance of snowmobile access there.

[JC w KC redux]

Probably ought to go up into the High Peaks. Best chance of snowmobile access there.

Surprised you didn't suggest Short But Well Hung***

[mungeclimber]

Forecast does look a little good.

New data inputs: I have no rack and only a few draws and only one 60m rope.

[Brad Young]

Are you determined to do the West Side? If not, the stuff at Crud and Mud would provide lots of climbs, no crowds (it's not public in any source other than this site) and easy access.

[mungeclimber]

At least for one of the days.

I do have a rematch planned with crud n mud. Last time there busted a hold right off the ground and shut the day down.

[clink]

 Where a t-shirt with a bright red flag on it. Take a pic.
 
 

[mungeclimber]

I do look good in red. 


alas, my red shirts may be in the wrong county.  hrm

[mungeclimber]

F4 just wrinkled us. lol


Need a partner for all day climbing Wednesday. Will pay for the after climb tacos if we climb at least 10 routes.

[Brad Young]

I do look good in red. 


alas, my red shirts may be in the wrong county.  hrm

First world problem.

[mungeclimber]

how many 60 m ropes are we going to need to rap off of Flying None?

How badly is the 4" piece needed? We have 3 camalots but nothing bigger. Will we die?

[Brad Young]

how many 60 m ropes are we going to need to rap off of Flying None?

As you've read it is set up specifically to rap with a 70 meter rope. But only the last rappel needs it. Two 60s would likely let you rap it in two, two-rope rappels. Or with one 60, rap to the last bolt on Costanoan and downclimb (or rap) from it, like so many do?

How badly is the 4" piece needed? We have 3 camalots but nothing bigger.

It's protectable without it. Number one, two, and three Camalots protect the 5.6 part of the crack. Lay a sling over a nice knob a little higher and that will protect the moves to the first bolt.

Between bolts one and two are slots for a red Alien and a number five Camalot, although no person to my knowledge has ever used the big one there (and I did the first lead of that part in approach shoes).

Will we die?

Yes, of course. Hopefully after 2070 or so though.

[Brad Young]

^^^

It's also not that difficult to find the class four off the back side and then walk around (pretty good path beaten in to that walk off as of right now).

If in doubt, rap the top pitch of Costanoan and then walk 100 feet left to skip the top half of that descent and it's possible to set up a rap on stout manzanitas to rap the last, hard to find, easy class five part of that class four descent.

And, bonus, you could do the two easy routes that are now on that side of The Citadel (see the new route's list).

[F4?]

I'm in it for the entire day.

i prefer down climbing from the last bolt on Coastanoan over carrying 2 ropes.

[mynameismud]

BLL is not allowed anywhere

[F4?]

I'll collect on the taco offer.

[mungeclimber]

Enjoyed the climb.
F4 lead p1, and used an old style #4 camalot. Barely worked in the pod. Didn

[mungeclimber]

apostraphe bug symptom in that last message. Safari browser over mobile. Meant to have more text after it.

[F4?]

Good route, needs more soft bushing.
Mungie was smart, got me out at castle rock the day before to wear the tabs down.

P4 was a, ah, brief.