Author Topic: Ubermensch 6th(?) ascent, by Ethan Pringle 1/6/07 (Read 6366 times)

Clint Cummins · « **on:** January 22, 2007, 04:37:37 PM »

I was fiddling around on 8a.nu, and I noticed that Ethan Pringle had climbed Ubermensch, for what I think is the 3rd ascent [Edit: possibly the 6th ascent, see Karl's post below - thanks, Karl!].

(First 2 were the FA in 1996 by Chris Sharma, and the 2nd ascent in 1997 by Ed Barry).

You can check out his comments at:

http://www.8a.nu/site2/?IncPage=http%3A//web.8a.nu/%28idcxhzjo10jbir55ehacki55%29/scorecard/AscentList.aspx%3FUserId%3D452%26AscentType%3D0%26AscentClass%3D0%26AscentListTimeInterval%3D1%26AscentListViewType%3D0

Actually, here are his comments, in case they disappear from the above link (in case you didn't know, Ubermensch translates to Superman):

homo superior. all small crimps and short, but flows very well. probably 14a

mungeclimber · « **Reply #1 on:** January 22, 2007, 07:59:07 PM »

cool, thx Clint!

karl · « **Reply #2 on:** January 22, 2007, 10:28:53 PM »

Ethan did send Ubermensch about two weeks ago, but it wasn't the third ascent. I know that Bradley Johnson sent it almost two years ago.

In addition, I think that Ethan's friend Dave Holodiloff sent it. Lastly, there was another guy that was working it a little over three years ago and I think that I heard that he sent it as well.

karl

Clint Cummins · « **Reply #3 on:** January 23, 2007, 05:34:26 PM »

Thanks for the correction, Karl. I also corrected the "news item" on my Pinnacles page to include the other ascents which you listed.

The Big · « **Reply #4 on:** January 23, 2007, 05:43:16 PM »

Karl,

I remember the other guy but not his name. Arghh, I need to work more on remembering names. If it is the same guy, he was working it the same time I got Future Shock and at that time he had gotten it with, I think, one fall. When I say him climbing on the route his climbing looked incredibly smooth.

Jody Langford · « **Reply #5 on:** January 23, 2007, 06:07:23 PM »

I did it last week and just didn't tell anybody.

Then I woke up and had to go to work.

Masters of Stone 4 has good footage of Sharma on it.

F4? · « **Reply #6 on:** January 23, 2007, 06:11:45 PM »

Anyone ever look closely at some of the holds? I think there was some aggressive cleaning on the route.

karl · « **Reply #7 on:** January 23, 2007, 06:50:19 PM »

The "other guy" did seem pretty smooth. I remember him showing up to Pinnacles, sending a lot of routes in a couple of weekends, then he was gone. He onsighted Verdict as a warm-up in his approach shoes.

As for the cleaning... it's my understanding that there was no aggresive cleaning. The route has just broken over the ascents and attempts. I know that many of the holds near the second bolt have broken in half and snapped off completely. As a result many of the holds look very rough and jagged.

karl

mungeclimber · « **Reply #8 on:** January 23, 2007, 08:28:48 PM »

Quote from: "F4?"

Anyone ever look closely at some of the holds? I think there was some aggressive cleaning on the route.

you are almost as bad as I am for stirring shit up.

F4? · « **Reply #9 on:** January 23, 2007, 10:32:09 PM »

Quote

you are almost as bad as I am for stirring shit up.

me stirring shit up?

I just remember looking at the route and a few of the holds looked odd (it's been years and I can't describe it anymore)

I was just wondering if anyone else noticed what I had. Most likely it's from stuff breaking off.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #10 on:** January 23, 2007, 11:56:26 PM »

odd is aggressive cleaning? it's pinnacles.

ignore me, I'm just recovering from a long day/week.

News:

Author Topic: Ubermensch 6th(?) ascent, by Ethan Pringle 1/6/07 (Read 6366 times)