Author Topic: Machete death triangle...  (Read 6396 times)

NOAL

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Re: Machete death triangle...
« Reply #20 on: January 27, 2022, 10:03:50 AM »
Quote
I usually carry a knife 

I am from Alabama.  I always carry a knife. Remember that.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Machete death triangle...
« Reply #21 on: January 27, 2022, 10:18:18 AM »
While it's not a good anchor for several reasons, the ADT isn't as magically terrible as it's been laid out to be.

The bad thing I see about the triangle is no redundancy. If the webbing breaks, you are gone.
If I leave webbing on an anchor I tie a piece to each bolt.
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mynameismud

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Re: Machete death triangle...
« Reply #22 on: January 27, 2022, 10:52:18 AM »
Yeah, the thing with the triangle isn't so much the forces but that it is a single point of failure.  I am sure anyone who has climbed for a while has rapped off of a single piece or sketchy stuff more than once.  But, when you have a two bolt anchor why setup a rap with a single point of failure.  Unless of course someone left two really good pieces of webbing and you want to bootie one and rap off of the other. 
Here's to sweat in your eye

squiddo

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Re: Machete death triangle...
« Reply #23 on: January 27, 2022, 10:57:03 AM »
While it's not a good anchor for several reasons, the ADT isn't as magically terrible as it's been laid out to be. It's entirely possible to descend off it and not have a problem. If you're interested strictly in issues of the forces applied to the anchor bolts and nothing else (like how one chop and this whole thing just fails) How Not 2 Highline did some force tests on the ADT on Youtube recently.



Exactly. Not ideal NOT best practice but strong
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mynameismud

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Re: Machete death triangle...
« Reply #24 on: January 27, 2022, 11:11:24 AM »
I am from Alabama.  I always carry a knife. Remember that.

lol, good to know...
Here's to sweat in your eye

russ p

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Re: Machete death triangle...
« Reply #25 on: January 27, 2022, 11:16:39 AM »
The website Alpine Savvy (which I really like) has a posting entitled

mynameismud

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Re: Machete death triangle...
« Reply #26 on: January 27, 2022, 12:04:53 PM »
Exactly. Not ideal NOT best practice but strong

Depending on who left the webbing
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burnsbabe

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Re: Machete death triangle...
« Reply #27 on: January 27, 2022, 01:15:39 PM »
Yeah, the thing with the triangle isn't so much the forces but that it is a single point of failure.  I am sure anyone who has climbed for a while has rapped off of a single piece or sketchy stuff more than once.  But, when you have a two bolt anchor why setup a rap with a single point of failure.

Yeah. This is really it. I just see a lot of arguments about the ADT boiling down to force on the anchor bolts for some reason instead of the single point of failure.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Machete death triangle...
« Reply #28 on: January 27, 2022, 04:07:14 PM »
The website Alpine Savvy (which I really like) has a posting entitled

Apostrophailure
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F4?

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Re: Machete death triangle...
« Reply #29 on: January 27, 2022, 04:54:41 PM »
Yeah Mr Mud, who left the webbing is key.
Were it Clint, it would be 10-15yr old.
Still strong.

You used to be more spendy and leave carabiners.
Which I always returned.

I will ask Larry about buying a spool of bright pink webbing for bailing.
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Brad Young

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Re: Machete death triangle...
« Reply #30 on: January 27, 2022, 05:28:49 PM »

I will ask Larry about buying a spool of bright pink webbing for bailing.


Do you think that one spool will last long enough? Better order two!

F4?

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Re: Machete death triangle...
« Reply #31 on: January 27, 2022, 05:38:11 PM »
I like your thinking Brad!

Enough for Sonora Pass
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mungeclimber

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Re: Machete death triangle...
« Reply #32 on: January 27, 2022, 07:17:47 PM »
Lime squeeze webbing good.

Not going through rings bad.
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NOAL

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Re: Machete death triangle...
« Reply #33 on: January 27, 2022, 07:25:05 PM »
Quote
    Unless of course someone left two really good pieces of webbing and you want to bootie one and rap off of the other 

Reminds of one time when I climbed West Pillar route on Eichorn Pinnacle. I led all the pitches. When we got to the top the guy following hands me a big ball of webbing, quicklinks, rap rings etc and says "I cleaned all of these"  He had removed all of the rap stations.

clink

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Re: Machete death triangle...
« Reply #34 on: January 27, 2022, 07:40:23 PM »
Quote
Reminds of one time when I climbed West Pillar route on Eichorn Pinnacle. I led all the pitches. When we got to the top the guy following hands me a big ball of webbing, quicklinks, rap rings etc and says "I cleaned all of these"  He had removed all of the rap stations.

 That is funny, though maybe not at the time. Did he bring some skyhooks for getting down?
Causing trouble when not climbing.

NOAL

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Re: Machete death triangle...
« Reply #35 on: January 27, 2022, 11:41:06 PM »
I believe there are bolts on top which you can get to doing the one pitch easy route.

He took all the stuff people use to bail on the five pitch route.




waldo

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Re: Machete death triangle...
« Reply #36 on: January 28, 2022, 07:35:01 PM »
Death triangle? Sounds like time travelers to me, maybe some of those boys with a Chuck Richards guide stepped through a dimensional portal. We do have some strange portals around here.

kurt

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Re: Machete death triangle...
« Reply #37 on: January 31, 2022, 12:07:10 PM »
We observed something similar midway between the top of Bill's Bad Bolts Direct and the summit tree on 1/29/22.  We didn't go higher to check it out but that color webbing was clearly visible hanging on something.  Was that the same anchor mentioned in the original post?

JC w KC redux

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Re: Machete death triangle...
« Reply #38 on: January 31, 2022, 12:41:18 PM »
We observed something similar midway between the top of Bill's Bad Bolts Direct and the summit tree on 1/29/22.  We didn't go higher to check it out but that color webbing was clearly visible hanging on something.  Was that the same anchor mentioned in the original post?

Not the same anchor. The original one is one of several rappel anchors in the gully used for the Machete descent. http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=1951.80

Sounds like someone is climbing Machete routes and either bailing or rappelling down pitches that are too long for a single rope rappel.
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F4?

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Re: Machete death triangle...
« Reply #39 on: January 31, 2022, 01:07:30 PM »
Is this a job for Magnum PO?
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