Author Topic: New Spikes peak routes (Read 5620 times)

F4? · « **on:** February 18, 2022, 03:29:31 PM »

Climbed spike peak and after crushing dances with wharthogs

We found a new route left of dances.
10a

I call it Baconator

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #1 on:** February 18, 2022, 04:04:12 PM »

^^^
Are you holding back to let suspense build or are you a victim of punctuation again?

Brad Young · « **Reply #2 on:** February 18, 2022, 04:06:41 PM »

He is now Factor 1.5.

F4? · « **Reply #3 on:** February 18, 2022, 05:12:20 PM »

I try

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #4 on:** February 18, 2022, 05:54:32 PM »

This was all there was of your post before you edited it.

Quote from: F4? on February 18, 2022, 03:29:31 PM

Climbed spike peak and after crushing dances with wharthogs

I do not see the deadly apostrophe in your edit.

You "found" a route left of Dances?

Which one? There are 4.

F4? · « **Reply #5 on:** February 18, 2022, 06:18:22 PM »

Climbers right of bacon bits. Climbers left of dances with whart hogs. More right of W hogs.
We found. 2nd climb next to baconbits but could not figure hot to finish.

Much harder than Bacon Bits according to Marc.
I just found bigger holds than him.

Brad Young · « **Reply #6 on:** February 18, 2022, 07:52:37 PM »

It is called Hole Hog 5.8 ** first ascent last Sunday by me, Gavin and Fletcher. Starts just inside the chimney. Twenty feet of chimney climbing to 80 feet of wonderful holes. Finish at a separate two bolt anchor.

Brad Young · « **Reply #7 on:** February 18, 2022, 07:54:42 PM »

It is ten feet right of Bacon Bits.

F4? · « **Reply #8 on:** February 18, 2022, 08:04:10 PM »

Hole hog Nice! We enjoyed it.
Felt a wee tricky in a few spots.

Now is there another route in there?

Brad Young · « **Reply #9 on:** February 18, 2022, 08:04:48 PM »

I got shut down on a Joshua Tree 5.7 today. Thirty feet of unprotected face to an up and right seam. I backed off the seam even though I had good pro by then. Seemed way harder than 5.7.

F4? · « **Reply #10 on:** February 18, 2022, 08:09:10 PM »

Nice

It was a stellar day in the high peaks, with a few obnoxious clouds.

Brad Young · « **Reply #11 on:** February 18, 2022, 08:10:30 PM »

After down climbing I rested and tried it as a foot traverse instead of as a hand traverse. It looked so totally improbable that way, but it went. It was even approximately 5.7.

I then tried the hand traverse on top rope. At least 5.10a. And with a crux way away from where the pro was.

F4? · « **Reply #12 on:** February 18, 2022, 08:15:56 PM »

Gotta say
Those moves were thin with small foot holds.

10a?

Brad Young · « **Reply #13 on:** February 18, 2022, 08:19:10 PM »

Are you asking about my route in Joshua Tree today or about Hole Hog? Hole Hog was consensus 5.8.

F4? · « **Reply #14 on:** February 18, 2022, 08:31:58 PM »

Hole hog is fun. Great to see another cool route added to the area.
I felt there was 1 steep section that got my attention.
It felt a bit harder than Bacon Bits, but maybe it was learning the moves.
But we did not have the time to climb Bacon Bits to do a better comparison.

Great job guys.

Dances WWH what a route!
Pumpy start going out left (right side took the brunt of the moves), good rest part way through and the holds kept appearing when you needed them.

Gavin · « **Reply #15 on:** February 19, 2022, 09:58:45 AM »

F4 - glad you liked Hole Hog and Dances With Warthogs. I think they both turned out well and I'm glad to have put in the bolting efforts to establish them.

I had eyed the Hole Hog line for the past few years, then tried it on toprope a couple weeks ago, then started work on it. I invited Brad and Fletcher to assist and we were able to finish it up in a couple days. I placed 9 of the 13 bolts (11 lead bolts plus 2 anchor bolts), and spent an hour or more trying to at least scrub / clean off the most obvious loose stuff... I think it will clean up well over time.

I was nice and gave the first lead to Brad.

I don't think Hole Hog is harder than 5.8... the multiple pockets always give the climber options even when the wall is steep.

Have you climbed Swine Flue, the next route in the slot past Bacon Bits? It is very fun and has great views from the high, middle summit of Spike's Peak. I was working on that a few years ago in August - very hot and sweaty work stemming between the two faces while drilling on stance!

F4? · « **Reply #16 on:** February 19, 2022, 12:58:44 PM »

Nice Gavin!

I figured it was your work.

It was funny since we found the top anchors

Gavin · « **Reply #17 on:** February 19, 2022, 04:00:10 PM »

Yeah, it was funny for another reason too - I was conducting raptor surveys from near Tilting Terrace yesterday and saw you guys up there. I looked through a scope and thought, "I think that is F4..."

Glad you both enjoyed the routes!

squiddo · « **Reply #18 on:** February 19, 2022, 04:04:20 PM »

Quote from: Gavin on February 19, 2022, 04:00:10 PM

Yeah, it was funny for another reason too - I was conducting raptor surveys from near Tilting Terrace yesterday and saw you guys up there. I looked through a scope and thought, "I think that is F4..."

Glad you both enjoyed the routes!

Agreed Gavin, they are all fun. It is a special area. Thanks again.

F4? · « **Reply #19 on:** February 19, 2022, 04:52:57 PM »

I was going to tell the bird guy we saw on the trail to ring you up saying 2x guys were complaining about a raptor crapping on them!

I need to use an Orange shirt to look like JC.

Edit:

Gavin, was that you on top of Muchshitty? I saw someone scrambling the wrong way up there (North to South vs South to North)

News:

Author Topic: New Spikes peak routes (Read 5620 times)