Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)

[JC w KC redux]

This is not by choice, mind you.

How am I supposed to cause trouble when you won't take the bait?

[Brad Young]

Zay, I just sent you a PM on this site about new routes. It asks you to email me. Not sure you would see it and maybe you will see an actual post sooner?

[Atomizer]

I was just looking over a few things and noticed that the description for the route Condorks states that the route starts from the top of the rock fin. We belayed in the chasm between the rock fin and the wall.

On a sad note, John Bolte who I did the FA with, was killed two weeks ago by rockfall while descending from Fitzroy in Patagonia. He was truly a modern day stonemaster, one of the nicest people and loyal friend to many people. His loss is felt far and wide. He was 26 years old.

Debating whether to add a few extra bolts like has been suggested. John gave his approval, but now that he's gone it's hard to decide whether to proceed with the plan

[JC w KC redux]

Thanks for posting that Adam. I thought about posting something but I did not know John and only saw him in the gym a couple times. I had no idea what an accomplished climber he was.
We heard about the accident shortly after it happened and Kat read me an article yesterday that was published in the latest issue of Climbing magazine. From all accounts of his bold style and ability to move fast - for what it is worth - I would not blame you for leaving the route as is.

If I had it to do over again, I would not have allowed most of the bolts to be added to my runouts.   

[Atomizer]

From all accounts of his bold style and ability to move fast - for what it is worth - I would not blame you for leaving the route as is.

If I had it to do over again, I would not have allowed most of the bolts to be added to my runouts.   

Thanks for the input. I don't think the runouts as they currently stand are that bad and might let it stand. I did have John place a new bolt to edit his runout for bolt three on the route. it was most definitely a ground fall before the new third. The dude was really comfortable when runout.

[mynameismud]

I typically lean toward leaving runouts as is but that is just me.  I like those routes and they are typically the highest on my to-do list.  Even though sometimes it means I never actually manage to do them.

[F4?]

Wow, what a bummer.

You gotta embrace those runouts.
On some routes an added bolt would chance the character.


Then again I