Temperatures at Pinnacles

[burnsbabe]

Hey folks!
  I wanted to check in with some more experienced Pinnacles climbers. I had great fun back in January and have picked up a significant amount of comfort on lead since then, so I might be able to have even more fun now. I'm free in mid May for a few days (weekdays no less) and was thinking about coming back to the park. Is it just too damned hot to be climbing then? Or do you just sunscreen up, take it easy on the hiking, and chase shade all day? Thoughts? If you are shade chasing, do you have routes in the low 5.10s you like for this? I'm assuming some of Discovery Wall gets good shade.

[NOAL]

It may or may not be hot in May. 

If it is like 90-110 degree hot it is usually best to pick an area or formation that has shade , hike there early, climb until at least 4-5pm and hike back out.  If you decide to move from area to area just don't get caught in the hours of 1-3 out in the open.  If you do pick a rock with shade, eat lunch,take a nap, etc until 3 or so.  I like to freeze a gallon jug of gatorade the day before.

In the summer time there is sometimes people climbing at Discovery Wall, Monolith, Upper Crust  late in the afternoon.  There are quite a few areas in the new routes list that would be good on hot days and the hikes to get to them are not super long.
 
If you have not visited the High Peaks yet I would suggest climbing at Spikes Peak.  It stays in the shade all of the day, great rock quality, new bolts on all but one route, and super fun routes.  There is a whole day of climbing there now.  If you have the guide book look up Little Javelina to see the approach. All of the new routes are here in the new routes list.  Almost all of the routes are 10a or under. 

  Crud and Mud has a lot of moderate climbs,  Old Man area , and Voyeur Wall would also fit the bill.   All three of these areas are in the new routes list. 

Have Fun and stay Hydrated

[climberdude]

The climbing situation in May regarding temperature can still be very reasonable.  Noal has made some good recommendations, but I will add a few more.  Start as early as you can because the temperatures are cooler in the morning (can I repeat this three times and be done?).  I also look for climbs that are higher on ridges to take advantage of the breezes if they appear.  Also look for shaded climbs, chasing the shadows as the day goes on.  There are a huge number of very moderate climbs that have been created in the last ten years.

[Zay]

Upper crust is in shade pretty much all day and has a 10a, a 10b, a 10c, and a 5.9 that are all good. (The 10c is tricky...)

[waldo]

The West Side is good in May — Machete shade in the morning and Flumes shadows in the afternoon.

[Zay]

Hehe thats actually my strategy tomorrow: Machete Direct in the morning, and flumes in the afternoon...

I was at flumes a few days ago and noticed that around 1pm the routes themselves were shaded, but the staging area was sunny. Id say that by 2 it should be pretty easy to stay in dhade for everyone.

I will have more accurate observations by the end of tomorrow.

[waldo]

Hehe thats actually my strategy tomorrow: Machete Direct in the morning, and flumes in the afternoon...

I was at flumes a few days ago and noticed that around 1pm the routes themselves were shaded, but the staging area was sunny. Id say that by 2 it should be pretty easy to stay in dhade for everyone.

I will have more accurate observations by the end of tomorrow.

Zay,

That's exactly right. Also, when the climbing advisories come off, Balconies is shaded after three. Comfortable ascents are possible even in August. Holmgren and I often met after work for summer Balconies climbs.

[Zay]

Got er done yesterday. Machete Direct to Flumes. Shade all day

12:23PM: Flumes routes (bits n pieces to nipples and knobs) were just going into shade, but belayers would have to really scrunch up against the wall.

12:58PM: All main Flumes Routes in shade, and belayers can man their stations comfortably in shade.

3:00pm: All balconies routes in shade. (Though peregrine falcons continue patrol the cliffs menacingly)

[burnsbabe]

This is all great info folks, so thanks! Seems like Flumes is all easy sport but Machete Ridge is mostly multi-pitch Trad/Aid stuff, is that right? Early weather predictions are suggesting 80s. So, not cool, but totally bearable.

[waldo]

Got er done yesterday. Machete Direct to Flumes. Shade all day

12:23PM: Flumes routes (bits n pieces to nipples and knobs) were just going into shade, but belayers would have to really scrunch up against the wall.

12:58PM: All main Flumes Routes in shade, and belayers can man their stations comfortably in shade.

3:00pm: All balconies routes in shade. (Though peregrine falcons continue patrol the cliffs menacingly)

This rhythm works on most summer days — with a few hundred degree exceptions.

[burnsbabe]

Fair enough. Most of that seems out of my wheelhouse as (to this point) a strictly single pitch sport climber.

[Zay]

Oh, in that case: Flumes in the afternoon...

Or - on east side - disco wall and monolith in the afternoon... and upper crust all day.

Ive shown up o disco wall around 4 on a day that was in the upper 90's and had a great (and only slightly sweaty) time.

[JC w KC redux]

Seems like Flumes is all easy sport but Machete Ridge is mostly multi-pitch Trad/Aid stuff, is that right? Early weather predictions are suggesting 80s. So, not cool, but totally bearable.

"Easy" is such a relative term.
Go climb Flimsy Flume and then tell me it was easy.
The first and only bolt is 60 feet up (I replaced it a couple years ago).
Watch out for Flames Face. Even with the bolt replacements it is a serious lead.
Go check out the new routes at Upper Flumes (5.6's, 7's and 8's).
Go do The Big Bad West and Corona to boost your confidence.