Resurrection Wall ?...

[russ p]

We want to try some of those newer routes in the Resurrection Wall area, however, I know parts of Resurrection Wall are currently closed  I am not familiar with that area at all, and currently my partner has possession of the guide book so I can't research.

We wanted to check out Book of Leon on Resurrection North's north face, and the Eye Candy Crag area on the North face of Resurrection Middle.  Are those areas part of  closure, or they good to go?

Thanks, Russ

[NOAL]

They are open.  We will be near there tomorrow.

Those areas have a different approach than the Main formation which is closed.

[russ p]

NOAL, thanks for clarifying.

[JC w KC redux]

We want to try some of those newer routes in the Resurrection Wall area

We wanted to check out Book of Leon on Resurrection North's north face, and the Eye Candy Crag area on the North face of Resurrection Middle. 

New rule;

You have to climb Dog Do Afternoon, Casper and Numbskulls Needle to earn a shot at Eye Candy Crag.

As a matter of fact - I Double Dog Dare you. 

[russ p]

New rule;

You have to climb Dog Do Afternoon, Casper and Numbskulls Needle to earn a shot at Eye Candy Crag.

As a matter of fact - I Double Dog Dare you. 

If I agree to this new rule is this something I'm going to regret?

[Brad Young]

If I agree to this new rule is this something I'm going to regret?

You WILL NOT regret doing these routes!!

If you live, you'll be that much closer to having done every route in the park! And, bonus, the carry out if you fall isn't very far.

[russ p]

You WILL NOT regret doing these routes!!

If you live, you'll be that much closer to having done every route in the park! And, bonus, the carry out if you fall isn't very far.

Hmmmm…sounds like a set up

[NOAL]

  You have to climb Dog Do Afternoon, Casper and Numbskulls Needle to earn a shot at Eye Candy Crag.
 

Skip all of those routes.

Book of Leon is set up to rappel with two 90 ft rappels.  This way you can climb the route, and then climb stuff at Eye Candy and not have to do the hike up there. 

The top anchor of Book of Leon puts you about 50 yards from the start of Chubby Rain. 

[russ p]

NOAL thanks much.  This sounds like the plan. 

[JC w KC redux]

^^^
Until you see the approach and the first pitch

[russ p]

Is this when the foreboding music fades into the scene?

[russ p]

My climbing partner David and I made it out yesterday.  Got a little bit of a late start and then thrashed around a bit, we had our PO radar turned on to 11, so fingers crossed.  We climbed a bunch at Eye Candy Crag and dinked around enough to put Book of Leon off until next time, which we will definitely do.

The reason I am posting this is that I wanted to give a shout out to all who put those routes up and say thank you!  The climbing was fantastic.  What a cool little area, with amazing views of Machete & the Balconies.  Just like when we made it out to Rubble Wall a few weeks ago, it feels like a unique little hidden world.  These hidden little worlds & Pinnacles in general, at least for me, are the perfect escape from the increasingly tumultuous and sobering times we all live in.

Anyway, just wanted to give kudos to the FA's that individuals put their time, effort, and money for the hardware into.  They are appreciated!

[NOAL]

That area might have the best view of the West Side. The view from the Chubby Rain anchor is spectacular. 

Too bad you did not get to climb Book of Leon.  We have been surveying people who have climbed both Chubby Rain and Book of Leon to see which one they like best.  If you go and climb it report back.

Glad you had a nice day out and enjoyed the routes and area.  For me that is one the goals of putting up new routes. It's great to see someone adventuring out to climb the new stuff.

[russ p]

That area might have the best view of the West Side. The view from the Chubby Rain anchor is spectacular. 

Too bad you did not get to climb Book of Leon.  We have been surveying people who have climbed both Chubby Rain and Book of Leon to see which one they like best.  If you go and climb it report back.

Glad you had a nice day out and enjoyed the routes and area.  For me that is one the goals of putting up new routes. It's great to see someone adventuring out to climb the new stuff.

The plan is to go back and climb it soon. 

[JC w KC redux]

Hey Russ,

We had a blast putting up those routes but the real credit goes to Noal for his "discovery" and keen eye for a line.

Rubble Wall was an adventure too with clink leading the charge up Long in the Tooth. Climbing and rebolting all those old routes was some of the best fun I'll ever have at Pinnacles. We spent about an equal amount of time at both crags (probably a dozen or more trips each). 

[JC w KC redux]

There is a lot more to the story with Rubble Wall.
I remember looking up that direction with Noal and him remarking that it looked like there were some bodacious lodestones up there. We were at The Frog at the time (rebolting) - so that tells you how big the "chunks" are - clearly visible with the naked eye. Kat and I ventured back up that way and found the approach to Bicuspid but I walked away that day and several other days. I predict someone will eventually take a nasty fall when those cracked/cracking holds let loose above the start. I barely escaped that fate the day I "led" it. We went back later with clink and he and I did the Gingivitis Traverse while exploring the downhill face - before he found the alternate approach on the next trip (to the heart of Pinnacles).

[NOAL]

That was an easy day to remember because of the asshat with the drum.
It also rained (in the summertime) .  The other seed that was planted that day was the possibility of more routes on Crud and Mud.

I think we were rebolting The Fast Lane.  Before that we rebolted Atlas Shrugged.  I remember getting up to the mid route belay and pulling one ofthe dryvin bolts out with my fingers (there was no sleeve).   I had climbed the route a year or so earlier and we used that anchor.  The part above is 5.9 R.  It's a good route.

[JC w KC redux]

^^^
I went back and finished rebolting Atlas Shrugs but never returned to lead it.

You and I did some good work and had some fun days (I hope there are more to come).

[NOAL]

Ahhh all those days of having my legs completely fall asleep.