Author Topic: WEEKEND UPDATE  (Read 1109 times)

clink

  • Meanderthal
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Re: WEEKEND UPDATE
« Reply #40 on: September 10, 2022, 04:55:13 PM »

 What are friends for?
Causing trouble when not climbing.

looks easy from here

  • Mudders
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Re: WEEKEND UPDATE
« Reply #41 on: September 26, 2022, 08:33:45 AM »
Headed out to the Ctadel yesterday with a few friends. West Side was very quiet. We saw maybe a dozen people pass through the parking lot while we were casually loading our gear then veeery casually packing the car back up at the end of the day. One other climber came up when we were around the second anchors. I led The Flying None, we had another team on Costanoan.The Flying None was amazing, especially pitch 2. That combination of position, exposure and steepness is very rare on 5.7s, I feel like. I also luxuriated in the bolt spacing. Great work by the FA team to find it, clean it and equip it. It was fun to have the two climbs side by side, with similar anchor points, so we could jawjack back and forth. The day was warm, but that mostly just affected the hikes in amd out. The climbs were very pleasant, mostly in the shade until the last pitch or so.

Brad Young

  • Grand Master
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Re: WEEKEND UPDATE
« Reply #42 on: September 26, 2022, 10:24:29 AM »
Your comments have me wondering about The Flying None. Obviously, Jenn and I spent days and days on it. But I haven't climbed it since the first ascent. It seemed fun then and well positioned. But still pretty dirty.

I wonder how it is now, with time, ascents and rain?

I'm running out of routes I haven't done there. I may just have to climb this route again this coming season and compare it in my minds eye to how it was when we put it up. Maybe bring some bolting gear just to check bolt tightnesses while I'm at it (you know, channel my inner J.C.).

Glad you enjoyed it.

looks easy from here

  • Mudders
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Re: WEEKEND UPDATE
« Reply #43 on: September 26, 2022, 12:38:08 PM »
It was pretty clean and solid. Neither my follower nor I pulled anything off. It's seeing enough traffic that the first 2 1/2 pitches can be traced  visually from the ground by absence if lichen and slightly fresher, pinker rock. Upper lower angle sections are pretty dirty, but I think that's probably the glut of route options and the lack of bolts to lead a specific line.

Iirc the only pro I placed in the chimney section were a .4 and .75 C4 and a #10 offset nut. I never found any knobs anywhere on the route I felt confident to sling. Not sure if the ones mentioned in the description were victims of traffic, or if I have just been spoiled by iron hard Shuteye knobs and don't have the constitition for anything slightly hollow sounding that you have.  ;D. That being said, I never felt the need for any with the bolt spacing, and was just looking for them because they were mentioned.

But yeah, definitely worth a revisit imo. The 2 of us who climbed it want to climb it again, and the 2 guys who were on Costanoa want to go back and try it. And I thought that second pitch was truly steller. I'm glad you guys made it accessible. It would especially be a helluva hero pitch for someone new to leading 5.7.

mynameismud

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    • Mudncrud
Re: WEEKEND UPDATE
« Reply #44 on: September 27, 2022, 08:40:40 AM »
Here's to sweat in your eye

clink

  • Meanderthal
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Re: WEEKEND UPDATE
« Reply #45 on: September 27, 2022, 11:41:43 AM »

 I knew it wasn’t your IQ
Causing trouble when not climbing.