Author Topic: WEEKEND UPDATE  (Read 11078 times)

clink

  • Meanderthal
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Re: WEEKEND UPDATE
« Reply #40 on: September 10, 2022, 04:55:13 PM »

 What are friends for?
Causing trouble when not climbing.

looks easy from here

  • Mudders
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Re: WEEKEND UPDATE
« Reply #41 on: September 26, 2022, 08:33:45 AM »
Headed out to the Ctadel yesterday with a few friends. West Side was very quiet. We saw maybe a dozen people pass through the parking lot while we were casually loading our gear then veeery casually packing the car back up at the end of the day. One other climber came up when we were around the second anchors. I led The Flying None, we had another team on Costanoan.The Flying None was amazing, especially pitch 2. That combination of position, exposure and steepness is very rare on 5.7s, I feel like. I also luxuriated in the bolt spacing. Great work by the FA team to find it, clean it and equip it. It was fun to have the two climbs side by side, with similar anchor points, so we could jawjack back and forth. The day was warm, but that mostly just affected the hikes in amd out. The climbs were very pleasant, mostly in the shade until the last pitch or so.

Brad Young

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Re: WEEKEND UPDATE
« Reply #42 on: September 26, 2022, 10:24:29 AM »
Your comments have me wondering about The Flying None. Obviously, Jenn and I spent days and days on it. But I haven't climbed it since the first ascent. It seemed fun then and well positioned. But still pretty dirty.

I wonder how it is now, with time, ascents and rain?

I'm running out of routes I haven't done there. I may just have to climb this route again this coming season and compare it in my minds eye to how it was when we put it up. Maybe bring some bolting gear just to check bolt tightnesses while I'm at it (you know, channel my inner J.C.).

Glad you enjoyed it.

looks easy from here

  • Mudders
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Re: WEEKEND UPDATE
« Reply #43 on: September 26, 2022, 12:38:08 PM »
It was pretty clean and solid. Neither my follower nor I pulled anything off. It's seeing enough traffic that the first 2 1/2 pitches can be traced  visually from the ground by absence if lichen and slightly fresher, pinker rock. Upper lower angle sections are pretty dirty, but I think that's probably the glut of route options and the lack of bolts to lead a specific line.

Iirc the only pro I placed in the chimney section were a .4 and .75 C4 and a #10 offset nut. I never found any knobs anywhere on the route I felt confident to sling. Not sure if the ones mentioned in the description were victims of traffic, or if I have just been spoiled by iron hard Shuteye knobs and don't have the constitition for anything slightly hollow sounding that you have.  ;D. That being said, I never felt the need for any with the bolt spacing, and was just looking for them because they were mentioned.

But yeah, definitely worth a revisit imo. The 2 of us who climbed it want to climb it again, and the 2 guys who were on Costanoa want to go back and try it. And I thought that second pitch was truly steller. I'm glad you guys made it accessible. It would especially be a helluva hero pitch for someone new to leading 5.7.

mynameismud

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    • Mudncrud
Re: WEEKEND UPDATE
« Reply #44 on: September 27, 2022, 08:40:40 AM »
Here's to sweat in your eye

clink

  • Meanderthal
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Re: WEEKEND UPDATE
« Reply #45 on: September 27, 2022, 11:41:43 AM »

 I knew it wasn’t your IQ
Causing trouble when not climbing.

Brad Young

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Re: WEEKEND UPDATE
« Reply #46 on: January 23, 2023, 05:34:45 PM »
How to climb between a main formation and its outlier when both sets of rock are too loose?

Push the rock firmly back into place! Way to go Marco (working on what's gonna be a no star - unfortunately -  5.7 on a very big, never climbed pinnacle called, because of the rough/burley nature of the climbing, The Thug):




mynameismud

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    • Mudncrud
Re: WEEKEND UPDATE
« Reply #47 on: January 23, 2023, 08:19:55 PM »
37
Here's to sweat in your eye

Brad Young

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Re: WEEKEND UPDATE
« Reply #48 on: January 28, 2023, 09:05:04 PM »
BAP is a goddamn hero. Above and beyond to help some pretty... well let's say not-smart people. Way to be a kind person, Jenn!

F4?

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Re: WEEKEND UPDATE
« Reply #49 on: January 28, 2023, 09:15:18 PM »
It’s a good route. Glad that section of rock got bolted.
I had seen it when I climbed coastanoan…saved me the work of scrubbing and bolting.

Nice job!!
I'm not worthy.

Brad Young

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Re: WEEKEND UPDATE
« Reply #50 on: January 28, 2023, 09:56:11 PM »
^^^

WTF are you talking about??

clink

  • Meanderthal
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Re: WEEKEND UPDATE
« Reply #51 on: January 29, 2023, 07:43:52 AM »

 Where there is an alley, there is a thug. Occasionally a really good restaurant, but still keep a lookout for a thug.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

clink

  • Meanderthal
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Re: WEEKEND UPDATE
« Reply #52 on: January 29, 2023, 07:45:46 AM »

 Is BAP giving free counseling?
Causing trouble when not climbing.

Atomizer

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Re: WEEKEND UPDATE
« Reply #53 on: January 29, 2023, 07:55:26 AM »
Leave Marco alone. You guys are a bad influence on him.

Actually just here to ask what type of bolts y’all are using on your FAs. I’m planning on getting into trouble.

Brad Young

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Re: WEEKEND UPDATE
« Reply #54 on: January 29, 2023, 08:03:49 AM »

Leave Marco alone. You guys are a bad influence on him.

Actually just here to ask what type of bolts y’all are using on your FAs. I’m planning on getting into trouble.


We're using exclusively quarter inch buttonheads. Carbon steel, of course.

And you, planning on getting into trouble? Sounds like you plan a class on introspection.



Brad Young

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Re: WEEKEND UPDATE
« Reply #55 on: January 29, 2023, 08:20:03 AM »
Actually, Adam, too long an answer to keyboard. Feel free to call me though, I'm 99% sure you have the number.

F4?

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Re: WEEKEND UPDATE
« Reply #56 on: January 29, 2023, 08:28:20 AM »
Flying None
I'm not worthy.

Brad Young

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Re: WEEKEND UPDATE
« Reply #57 on: January 29, 2023, 09:17:22 AM »
Jenn's heroism started with a husband/father approaching us in the parking lot and saying: "I fucked up, could you please help us?"

With a three year old, a six year old and a wife who looks like she fell and hit her face (literally, I'm not being mean - Jenn later said that she may have had a concussion). It took them five hours to walk to West Side parking along Chalone Creek from Old Pinnacles Trailhead. By now it is 5:00 p.m. and they have one light jacket between them, one pack that is about the size of an old grade school tin lunch box and nothing else. The mom looks fucking, fucking pissed, the kids are exhausted (they're innocent here) and the dad is too pooped to carry them. Oh, and they're wet from the knees down.

Brad Young

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Re: WEEKEND UPDATE
« Reply #58 on: January 29, 2023, 09:22:17 AM »
He has no wallet (left it in the car - but Ok, most of do that) and is mystified that there's absolutely no cell reception....

clink

  • Meanderthal
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Re: WEEKEND UPDATE
« Reply #59 on: January 29, 2023, 10:50:55 AM »
…and…
Causing trouble when not climbing.