My partner and I did this yesterday and it was one of the more fun days of climbing I've had recently so I thought I'd share. Our rack consisted of 6 alpine draws. We took one 70m rope (though a thin tag line might be nice). All pitch descriptions are based on what's in Brad Young's book. This was our first time up any of these routes and we managed it all without needing headlamps. Also, my partner and I aren't young or anything (according to us but some of the geezers [jk] on here might think we're young) so anybody can do this.
We started driving to Pinnacles East Side from Santa Cruz around 7:30am. Stopped at the bakery for breakfast. When we got to Pinnacles, the Bear Gulch parking was full but that was part of the plan. We brought bikes with us and biked from the Visitor Center to the Condor Gulch trailhead. We filled up water and started hiking.
First up was Don Genaro's Waterfall. We didn't quite know where best to approach it from so we thrashed a bit to the base. The first chute (pitch) is a fun chimney climb with some face climbing. There are some places you could get some cams in but we didn't have any. The rock is solid though as it is in a water chute. We hauled our bags up this pitch by lowering a loop of rope. The second pitch is much easier (I don't even know if it's 5th class) and there is nowhere to protect it really. The water chute is a cool feature and really grooved out. However, the top of this chute is completely blocked by a big poison oak bush. I walked through it climber's left. Continuing up is easy and I belayed directly at the railing of the overlook. There was still some water in one of the shaded pools of the second pitch but it is well right of where I climbed. Some notes: this climb has got trash in it that comes down from the people at the overlook and also from the rains that must gather it. We packed out a foil balloon (not the first one I've found in Pinnacles), multiple hats, and various pieces of plastic trash (wrappers, bottles, food containers, etc.). There is still more trash in there (a trekking pole and more plastic). Also, the first pitch is a little intimidating without protection. There is a thin tree growing on a small ledge but leave it alone! You don't need to sling it. It probably wouldn't hold anyway.
Next, we hoofed it to Feather Canyon. Again, we didn't know how best to approach it but from the overlook we could see the chasm that makes up the first pitches so we just kinda headed towards that. This climb is great! The first pitch has a lot of bird excrement but all the others are clean. All the pitches are fun but pitches 1-4 are great (maybe 5 also). Pitches 2, 3, and 4 are the money pitches though. We combined pitches 6 and 7. This makes communication difficult but my partner and I climb together a lot so no big deal. We hauled the bag up pitches 3 and 4 using the same method previously stated. There is loose rock up there for sure but we were careful and never knocked any down. Some notes: this climb also has trash in it, although all climbers trash. We packed out climbing tape, bar wrappers, and a chalk bag (haha).
Next, we climbed the Regular Route on Tuff Dome. The rap off H&L Dome puts you right at its base. We didn't even bother pulling the rope through the chains on H&L before heading up Tuff. Belayer just pulled it as needed. This route is great also. There is an easily avoided poison oak bush at the beginning of the route. We rapped off the chains near the summit on the other side of the formation.
Overall, this was great! We started climbing at what is possibly the lowest point you can in Condor Gulch and ended at the highest point in the High Peaks. The climbing is great and includes a decent amount of chimneys, which gives it that old school feel. The rack is light, which is always great. And to top it off a couple condors graced us with some close flybys at the summits of H&L and Tuff domes. We never felt rushed and the bike ride back to the car was excellent. We never saw another climber and not many hikers. I would definitely do this again.
