Condor Condiment Rebolting

[clink]

 Close your eyes and imagine Tuolumne while chewing bran flakes.

[mudworm]

And mudworm, I called you a heretic above (which I can do because I know you have a good sense of humor). I just thought of a return to your original comment which I will put down here and then listen to you gasp from 140 miles away.

Sorry to disappoint you that you did not get to enjoy the gasping sound from me, Brad. Call me iliterate, but I had to look up the word "heretic," and then thought to myself, "what a compliment!"

Do you remember my older daughter Katie? You know, the one you met and hung out with several times and in particular, helped with math problems in the car driving to the east side of the Sierra?

Gasp  Brad, do you really think I'm THAT old and THAT forgetful?  Mind you, I became eligible only a few months ago to read a certain exclusive thread on MP that YOU people have been participating in for a long time, even though I still refuse to click open it.  Over the years, I've watched (over the Internet) Katie grow to be a strong capable young lady! And Tricia too. Come to think of it, does she remember that car ride, which I pressume changed her life? As they say, "once you solve math problems, you can solve any life problems."

I'll cast my vote. If I'm outvoted, so be it. I'm enjoying discussions like this.

Look like I've been outvoted? 

That's it. Get Smart? 5.8. Mission Impossible? 5.8!

Pitch 1. Tricky and insecure for 5.8, but could plausibly be 5.8, so I wouldn't suggest modifying the grade.

So much for thinking that my climbing partner would always have my back.    That's it. In the future, ALL 5.8 leads are yours (and see above ^^^).

Agreed - P1 climbs like a granite slab. Close your eyes and imagine Tuolumne.

Tuolumne? I close the eyes; I squeeze them; I then contort the face to squeeze even more... Nope, nice try. I'm still in Pinnacles. Now I need shake off the piece of moss that's stuck to the sole of my shoes, and oh, there is another piece in my ear!

I will have to finally get on Condor Condiment one of these days.

How about today? It's just a short walk from your house, right? There is a heated debate on P1 of Condor Condiment right now. Don't miss the excitement, Gavin!

Oh, when you go, can you please remember to take a look to the left at that 5.7R variation? My concern is because it's probably NEVER traveled these days, there is more loose rock going that way. I can't report on its condition because it did not occur to me to even look that way when there was an obvious beefy bolt right above me with easy climbing leading up to it.

[waldo]

Noal, I thank you, Marco and Ryan for undertaking the Condor Condiment rebolting project. Jack and I used the best we could find thirty-five years ago, but I’m relieved and grateful that you’ve made it a far safer climb with modern bolts. I was most worried about the top of the second pitch and the second pitch anchor. Those three buttonheads on the traverse into the belay always made me pucker. Also the two anchor bolts always seemed meek to me, given the exposure. Jack and I rappelled off them down to the gully a number of times but always backed up the anchor for the first guy down with a yellow Alien in a perfect pocket to the right. The second guy had to take his chances. That anchor for the 3rd pitch was sketch, too. We meant to back it up, but I don’t recall that we did. A Lowe nut and an Alien backed up the bolt, as I recall. Jack and I thought it was a fine adventure, but it was years before anyone else went up there. Your work should open a beautiful experience for many! Thanks again!
Waldo

[NOAL]

Thanks Waldo. 

It was a fun project because we had to actually climb the route to do the work vs a lot of other re bolting where you just come in from the top. I think doing this gives insight somewhat to how the route was put up and what that experience may have been like or at least it made me think about it a lot.

Also the two anchor bolts always seemed meek to me, given the exposure. Jack and I rappelled off them down to the gully a number of times but always backed up the anchor for the first guy down with a yellow Alien in a perfect pocket to the right.

I was wondering if you guys rapped from here and then returned another day and then re climbed back to your high point. Before we had Ryan on board I was thinking of rapping from this anchor after the second day of work.

  On the first pitch the scenario in my mind was where there were two bolts close together, the button head being the lowest and a Starr Drive wit a smash link a couple of feet above it would have been the high point for the first day.  We replaced both of these bolts in their same locations which could be useful for climbers who climb the first pitch and want to bail with a single rope.

So it sounds like you guys spent quite a few days working on the route.  Maybe 5 or 6 days total? 

Your work should open a beautiful experience for many!

I agree!  When I look at the to do list for the route on Mt. Project it is on almost 300 climber's lists. There are far less actual ticks.  Hopefully having the new bolts will change some people's minds.  It's a fantastic route.  The pitches are varied, it's a spectacular setting where you can usually see condors, and it ends on one of if not the best summits in the whole park.  There is also an adventurous kind of improbable quality to it like Feather Canyon.  It's remarkable that there are three pitches of quality moderate climbing that get you to a point where you think "how do we get to the summit?" and then all the 4th class stuff after that that makes it possible.  I think the route has one star currently but I really think it should get two when all of this is taken into account. Thanks for putting up such a great route!  I would love to hear any other memories you have from working on it.

[Brad Young]

...I think the route has one star currently but I really think it should get two when all of this is taken into account.

Perhaps now the question is: "should the third pitch variation get a star?"

[waldo]

 One of climbing's most satisfying facets, to me, is the puzzle presented by creating a safety system out of gear. Pinnacles climbs are often devoid of this facet — not Condor Condiment. What you can find and make work is crucial, at least to your peace of mind. Holmgren was a genius at finding gear placements. I can still hear his joyful cry of "bomber!" in my dreams when he found a good one, though "bomber" is a decision rendered by Pinnacles rock gods. I recall cursing him roundly on a subsequent ascent without him when I failed to find his red Lowe nut placement on the 2nd pitch. I'm responsible for the runout on pitch one. I placed a couple of bolts and then ran it to the belay niche. It was a lot further than I thought it would be. Also, I recall placing only one bolt on pitch 4. Again, large cams can mitigate the traverse. The day was getting on and we needed to hit the top. Thanks again!

P.S. We spent at least six days working on it. I joined the project after bolt # 3, as I recall.

[Marco]

Would you consider erasing the 5.7 variation on P3? I really don't see anyone who has climbed up from P1 in their right mind would choose to go that way, especially now with a bomber bolt above.

A buddy reported doing CC last week, apparently he preserved the adventure and didn't look at the topo.
Him: "I must've gone too far left, after the first bolt I couldn't find any more on that pitch until I reached the anchor"
Me: "I bet"

TBD if he has an excellent sense of adventure or truly out of their right mind. I think he did Anasazi the day before, doesn't help me decide at all. This was his partners first weekend at the Pinns, apparently had a great time which is awesome and suprising with the route lineup.

[Brad Young]

^^^

Sounds like just the right person to climb My Mistake. Has that ever had a second ascent?

[NOAL]

I think he did Anasazi the day before, doesn't help me decide at al

Did he do Anasazi on purpose or did he do the first pitch of Power Tools and then Anasazi by mistake?  Where's all the bolts?

[Marco]

On purpose. I think continuing up the PT crack would put you on Berserker route (which unfortunately he also expressed interest in doing)... makes me think out of their right mind might be more accurate.

[Brad Young]

Is there any chance that someone removed bolt hangers from Condor Condiment? That just doesn't seem possible, but neither does not seeing any of the bolts beyond the first???

[Cole Ing]

I will admit I am the climber in question.  In my quest to "keep it old school" I broke left after plugging a cam just above the first bolt.  I got lured off route by the path of least resistance and what looked like cleaner rock far left.  This ended up being a nice way to climb the pitch, and before long, I found myself at the anchors.  Very fun route, and thanks to all who helped rebolt!  Red line is the route I took:



As for Anasazi, this was mostly a hazing ritual for my buddy who had never been to the park before.  And the allure of a long gear only route drew me in, such a rarity at the Pinns.  It ended up being quite an enjoyable adventure, though I'm still undecided on if I had "fun" on pitch 3.  Can never count out the pitches with no grade in the book...  But the whole time I was eyeing up Berserker, which looks like the true Citadel king line.  Anyone know what those crux bolts look like?

[Brad Young]

Thanks for the clarification, Cole.

For some reason I read into Marco's comments that you skipped bolts on the first pitch. I just re-read them and he did not say that. Wow, skipping the bolts I thought you skipped? That would have been more than a little out of control.

[looks easy from here]

^^^

Sounds like just the right person to climb My Mistake. Has that ever had a second ascent?

You've got me curious; I don't see that route in the book or on the update list here. Though if it hasn't seen a second ascent, I doubt I'm bold enough to be that person.

[Brad Young]

You've got me curious; I don't see that route in the book or on the update list here. Though if it hasn't seen a second ascent, I doubt I'm bold enough to be that person.

I didn't use the full name. Here's the full name and description as it appears in the new book:

"1239.  Machete Direct Fourth Pitch - My Mistake Variation  5.10b X  This fourth pitch variant to Machete Direct was originally climbed in error (the first ascentionist traversed too far left, into a second streak, and ran that out to the top).  Originally described as unprotected 5.8, a short headwall well up the streak (at least 50 feet above any protection possibilities) requires 5.10 moves.  Of interest, the 1983 guidebook noted that:  “The first ascent party… recommended that a bolt kit be brought along on another ascent.”  To date, no one has acted on this suggestion."

It's in the old book too under that full name.

[looks easy from here]

Yeah, that'll be a hard pass from me.

[waldo]

I will admit I am the climber in question.  In my quest to "keep it old school" I broke left after plugging a cam just above the first bolt.  I got lured off route by the path of least resistance and what looked like cleaner rock far left.  This ended up being a nice way to climb the pitch, and before long, I found myself at the anchors.  Very fun route, and thanks to all who helped rebolt!  Red line is the route I took:



As for Anasazi, this was mostly a hazing ritual for my buddy who had never been to the park before.  And the allure of a long gear only route drew me in, such a rarity at the Pinns.  It ended up being quite an enjoyable adventure, though I'm still undecided on if I had "fun" on pitch 3.  Can never count out the pitches with no grade in the book...  But the whole time I was eyeing up Berserker, which looks like the true Citadel king line.  Anyone know what those crux bolts look like?

I put the bolt in on that pitch and Jack led to the 3rd pitch belay. It never dawned on either of us to look further left. Good work in doing so!

Berserker? Jack and I climbed it in 1990. I broke something and took a decent fall not far below the 2nd pitch belay. I recall thinking "well, that wasn't so hard," just before the tumble. We were never tempted to repeat it. There were few (if any!) enjoyable passages and the predominant focus was on getting to the top in one piece.