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Author Topic: Rebolting Candidate Thread  (Read 6486 times)

mungeclimber

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Rebolting Candidate Thread
« on: April 24, 2007, 10:06:51 PM »
"the 3rd bolt (I think) on Future Shock on the Monolith. It is a 3/8 by 3 and it wiggles a fair amount. It is the bolt everyone false on when blowing the clip after the crux moves. It is kinda scary." per Mr Mud post on st.
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The Big

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Rebolting Candidate Thread
« Reply #1 on: April 25, 2007, 12:11:37 PM »
That bolt does make the crux a bit intimidating.



The second pitch of Peregrine.  This has the potential to be a fun hard pitch, all it needs is a couple of good bolts in each crux.
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F4?

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Rebolting Candidate Thread
« Reply #2 on: April 25, 2007, 05:31:07 PM »
But what to replace the bolts with? Another 5 piece Powers? I like the theory/ idea that the epoxy would support the lip of the hole...but not sure if that would work



Here are my picks to replacing:

*Broken Arrow, 1st few

*Plauge (Jack Epoxied his Star Dryvins)
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The Big

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Rebolting Candidate Thread
« Reply #3 on: April 25, 2007, 06:06:40 PM »
The 3rd bolt of Future Shock either needs a glue in or a 1/2 x 4.  Probably a glue in.  



The bolts for Peregrine just need to be 3/8 x 3 Rawl.



Quote from: "F4?"
But what to replace the bolts with? Another 5 piece Powers? I like the theory/ idea that the epoxy would support the lip of the hole...but not sure if that would work



Here are my picks to replacing:

*Broken Arrow, 1st few

*Plauge (Jack Epoxied his Star Dryvins)
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mungeclimber

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Rebolting Candidate Thread
« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2007, 08:55:32 PM »
bolts on The Groove need replacing desperately if anyone had machinations to repeat that thing. sketch is right
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The Big

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Rebolting Candidate Thread
« Reply #5 on: April 26, 2007, 07:21:28 AM »
I thought it only had one bolt.  I really like that route, just have problems finding anyone that is willing to follow it.



Quote from: "mungeclimber"
bolts on The Groove need replacing desperately if anyone had machinations to repeat that thing. sketch is right
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Brad Young

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Rebolting Candidate Thread
« Reply #6 on: April 26, 2007, 07:40:10 AM »
Lame excuse hard ass. If you really liked it, you'd simply lead it and clean it on rap.



BTW, next Pinns season I won't be needing to traipse all over the place checking out obscurities. I'm thinking I'm going to focus on some hard stuff, hard 11s and a 12 or two. I doubt I'll ever red point the 12s, but trying them will help make 11s seem easier. I'm nominating you, right now, as my rope gun. Looking forward to it.
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mungeclimber

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Rebolting Candidate Thread
« Reply #7 on: April 26, 2007, 08:09:47 AM »
I don't know about Mr Mud, but it's the rap part that is SKETCH!
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The Big

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Rebolting Candidate Thread
« Reply #8 on: April 26, 2007, 08:48:15 AM »
I tried to solo it once but decided to back off.



Quote from: "Brad Young"
Lame excuse hard ass. If you really liked it, you'd simply lead it and clean it on rap.



BTW, next Pinns season I won't be needing to traipse all over the place checking out obscurities. I'm thinking I'm going to focus on some hard stuff, hard 11s and a 12 or two. I doubt I'll ever red point the 12s, but trying them will help make 11s seem easier. I'm nominating you, right now, as my rope gun. Looking forward to it.
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mungeclimber

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Rebolting Candidate Thread
« Reply #9 on: April 26, 2007, 12:55:23 PM »
proving that there is such a thing as too much choss?
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Brad Young

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Rebolting Candidate Thread
« Reply #10 on: April 26, 2007, 01:45:40 PM »
No, proving something even less frequently seen, something previously only rumored to exist: common sense in Mr Mud's climbing brain.
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The Big

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Rebolting Candidate Thread
« Reply #11 on: April 26, 2007, 02:03:54 PM »
It turns out the moves after going around the corner but before getting to the groove, seem easier with a rope.  The rope drag seems to help pull you into rock.  Felt really sketch without a rope, funny thing is I thought those moves would be easier without a rope since with a rope I seem to be fighting the rope a bit in the section.  That was my excuse at the time.



Quote from: "mungeclimber"
proving that there is such a thing as too much choss?
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mungeclimber

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Rebolting Candidate Thread
« Reply #12 on: April 26, 2007, 05:39:26 PM »
around the corner?
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F4?

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Rebolting Candidate Thread
« Reply #13 on: April 26, 2007, 05:48:29 PM »
Quote
I'm thinking I'm going to focus on some hard stuff, hard 11s and a 12 or two. I doubt I'll ever red point the 12s, but trying them will help make 11s seem easier.



Brad if you start climbing 12s, you'll have to change your license plate :cry:
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Ubergoober

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Rebolting Candidate Thread
« Reply #14 on: April 26, 2007, 08:37:34 PM »
Quote from: "Brad Young"

BTW, next Pinns season I won't be needing to traipse all over the place checking out obscurities. I'm thinking I'm going to focus on some hard stuff, hard 11s and a 12 or two. I doubt I'll ever red point the 12s, but trying them will help make 11s seem easier. I'm nominating you, right now, as my rope gun. Looking forward to it.



Wow. I may get to actually climb some of the classics on good (well, better) rock finally.
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mungeclimber

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Rebolting Candidate Thread
« Reply #15 on: April 26, 2007, 09:30:35 PM »
Quote from: "Ubergoober"
Quote from: "Brad Young"

BTW, next Pinns season I won't be needing to traipse all over the place checking out obscurities. I'm thinking I'm going to focus on some hard stuff, hard 11s and a 12 or two. I doubt I'll ever red point the 12s, but trying them will help make 11s seem easier. I'm nominating you, right now, as my rope gun. Looking forward to it.



Wow. I may get to actually climb some of the classics on good (well, better) rock finally.





LOL!!!!!
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The Big

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Rebolting Candidate Thread
« Reply #16 on: April 27, 2007, 12:47:40 PM »
You climb up the corner traverse left, go around a corner then continue left to the groove.  Turning the outside corner is not to bad, but I was not willing to commit to the moves that get you into to the Groove....

So I climbed The

Quote from: "mungeclimber"
around the corner?
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mungeclimber

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Rebolting Candidate Thread
« Reply #17 on: April 27, 2007, 12:50:16 PM »
what are you talking about?



The Groove, not the Gutter.
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mynameismud

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Re: Rebolting Candidate Thread
« Reply #18 on: May 03, 2007, 11:39:06 AM »
Oooops
Yeah haven't tried to solo that.
 :-[
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