Herchel-Berchel (sp)? Trip report wanted

[mungeclimber]

Post it tard.



How hard is the head wall, really?  10b?

[The Big]

I gave it one attempt then we bailed.  I fell on the bolt ladder.  All the holds were covered with lichen.  I say the last pitch, without having yet climbed it, is 10+.

We replaced all the bolts on the last pitch and did some cool exploring.



It has to be a cool climb since a Rat is living in the crack on the second pitch.

[mungeclimber]

[dr evil voice]  A Feral Rat? [/dr evil voice]

[The Big]

of course

[Anonymous]

I gave it one attempt then we bailed.  I fell on the bolt ladder.  All the holds were covered with lichen.  I say the last pitch, without having yet climbed it, is 10+.

We replaced all the bolts on the last pitch and did some cool exploring.



It has to be a cool climb since a Rat is living in the crack on the second pitch.

so wait a second, what happened to the 5.8+ in the topo BY did?

[The Big]

I think the 5.8+ that Brad has was for the end of the last pitch.  I have not climbed up that high.  



We also put in anchor bolts so it is possible to rap back down the the walk off ledge if a person has two 200 foot ropes.  I think a 165 would leave a person right at the bottom of the headwall.

[mungeclimber]

saving the upper pitch?

[The Big]

No just ran out of time.  Will be going back.  There are some cool looking top rope possibilities but I doubt that I can Brad interested while we are up there.  I think that he has tunnel vission right now.

[mungeclimber]

yeah, probably best for now.



a half incher though?!! hahaha  actually a good compromise in some respects, but I would have doubled them up since it's an established belay. That's just me.

[The Big]

I not sure what you are saying.  We put two bolts at the very top.  We put one 1/2x4 inch bolt at the single bolt 50 below  the summit.  It is possible to lead the last pitch with a 200 ft rope

although it would be tight.  I rapped down there on my 60 to replace the bolts and had plenty of rope to spare.  Leading will be different but I think it can be done with a 60



All old bolts were pulled the holes patched then new holes drilled for new bolts.



Hope that makes it semi clear.

[The Big]

Just for clarification.

No bolts on pitch one and two were replaced.  These bolts on 1/4' bolts.

The belay bolts for the belay at the start of the last pitch were not replaced.  They are 3/8" not real great but it is easy to climb up to the first lead bolt.  It is also possible to sling a knob at the belay at the start of the third pitch.

[mungeclimber]

Just for clarification.

No bolts on pitch one and two were replaced.  These bolts on 1/4' bolts.

quote]



huh?

[mungeclimber]

I not sure what you are saying.  We put two bolts at the very top.  We put one 1/2x4 inch bolt at the single bolt 50 below  the summit.  It is possible to lead the last pitch with a 200 ft rope

although it would be tight.  I rapped down there on my 60 to replace the bolts and had plenty of rope to spare.  Leading will be different but I think it can be done with a 60



All old bolts were pulled the holes patched then new holes drilled for new bolts.



Hope that makes it semi clear.

the guidebook says the single bolt that is now a half incher, is a belay. I have no ethical dilemma with putting in a second bolt at an established belay. That's all I was saying.   Since the lead hasn't been done to the new anchor on top, we don't know for sure that the last pitch really is just going from the grassy ledge to the anchor bolts, especially if someone takes a big wide right curve as the path to the top, thereby stretching the rope out. The safe bet would have been leaving the single bolt "belay" with a second anchor (contra Beyer-like death anchors), but with using a half incher, the route does remain intact as it was originally established.

[The Big]

I think that the anchor bolts on top are in the correct location.  There are slingable knobs that lead to this spot.  If you topout further to the right it is possible to walk over the the new topout belay anchor.  We thought about putting in two bolts and decided against it.