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Author Topic: Good routes for a n00b  (Read 11766 times)

Ubergoober

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Good routes for a n00b
« on: September 16, 2007, 08:34:02 PM »
Attention Kmart shoppers...

Since the new guidebook is not yet available and since the Rubine guide is woefully inaccurate and out of date (well,  really because I'm at work right now and not close to my copy), any recommendations on climbs to take a total n00b out on (I'm mean, like never tied into a rope before n00b). I was thinking that if the weather cools down a bit to hit the West Side and start on the route to the right of Dos Equis and then move up to Dos Equis itself. What else over there would be good? Would hitting the East Side be better?

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mynameismud

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Re: Good routes for a n00b
« Reply #1 on: September 16, 2007, 09:03:20 PM »
That stuff is good cuz there is always the stuff over on Flumes and that stuff on the left as you are walking in that 3rd class water streak what ever that is.  Flumes Chimney is also a good choice.
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Brad Young

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Re: Good routes for a n00b
« Reply #2 on: September 17, 2007, 05:42:59 AM »
It depends totally on what kind of shape they're in. I think the High Peaks have great beginner routes, a wonderful hike and great views. Can't miss there.
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mungeclimber

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Re: Good routes for a n00b
« Reply #3 on: September 17, 2007, 01:22:19 PM »
date routes include:

First Sister right or left route.

The beginner route that starts out of the stream left of Passion Play.

Chockstone Dome - right side route for sure, left side has some loose, but nothing heinous, good exposure.


BY is right. Sponge, Burgundy, Photographers, etc.
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F'ueco

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Re: Good routes for a n00b
« Reply #4 on: September 17, 2007, 03:52:58 PM »
I say put her on lead on Coyote Ugly. If she sends, she's a keeper...
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mynameismud

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Re: Good routes for a n00b
« Reply #5 on: September 17, 2007, 05:29:53 PM »
Ya good shit

Quote from: mungeclimber on September 17, 2007, 01:22:19 PM
date routes include:

First Sister right or left route.

The beginner route that starts out of the stream left of Passion Play.

Chockstone Dome - right side route for sure, left side has some loose, but nothing heinous, good exposure.


BY is right. Sponge, Burgundy, Photographers, etc.
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squiddo

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Re: Good routes for a n00b
« Reply #6 on: September 17, 2007, 07:20:17 PM »
Rat race is still one of my fav's.
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F4?

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Re: Good routes for a n00b
« Reply #7 on: September 17, 2007, 09:31:07 PM »
High Peaks all the way. Bring a lunch, some wine & a blanket. 9 months later....

Do photograhers Delight.

I you want to be mean or see what she's made of there's always the Cleft.
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Ubergoober

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Re: Good routes for a n00b
« Reply #8 on: September 21, 2007, 11:48:45 PM »
Quote from: F4? on September 17, 2007, 09:31:07 PM
9 months later....

Dude, don't even joke about that. I've done my duty already.
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joe

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Re: Good routes for a n00b
« Reply #9 on: September 22, 2007, 11:09:27 AM »
The newly bolted route to the right of Ali Baba is a good 'girlfriend climb'.  And you're right there by Toprope rock (also heard it called school house rock).
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Brad Young

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Re: Good routes for a n00b
« Reply #10 on: September 22, 2007, 11:21:18 AM »
It's called Sinbad, 5.6. Clint and I put it up "for beginning leaders." It has a direct start which is 5.8, with two more bolts, but it is not particularly good.
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Ubergoober

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Re: Good routes for a n00b
« Reply #11 on: September 26, 2007, 11:11:09 PM »
Ended up doing both routes on First Sister (spending a good portion here going over the basics), The Unmentionable, and Portent. She did awesome and had a great time. A future mud master in the making.
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Brad Young

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Re: Good routes for a n00b
« Reply #12 on: September 27, 2007, 05:30:01 AM »
And who is "she?"
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squiddo

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Re: Good routes for a n00b
« Reply #13 on: September 27, 2007, 09:37:21 AM »
a "special" girl for sure.
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Ubergoober

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Re: Good routes for a n00b
« Reply #14 on: September 27, 2007, 09:31:26 PM »
Quote from: Brad Young on September 27, 2007, 05:30:01 AM
And who is "she?"

A really cool girl. If I don't manage to scare her off soon, I'm sure you will meet her someday.
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Brad Young

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Re: Good routes for a n00b
« Reply #15 on: September 28, 2007, 05:49:17 AM »
OK, an excellent explanation. I hope it goes wll, you deserve an excellent companion.

Another question, then. What in the sam hell were you doing on three star routes at Pinns? It's against the law of nature that you should climb on such routes. I wouldn't have  thought you could even find them.
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squiddo

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Re: Good routes for a n00b
« Reply #16 on: September 28, 2007, 10:39:25 AM »
HA HA. BRAD, sure you remember them well You did them all 20 years ago like we all do when first visiting the Pinnacles. I remember my first trip to the Pinns as a 13 year old bent on "climbing something". Not being a lead climber, I spent the better part of the day looking for a route I could top-rope. Some classic aero star route below and East of the Discovery Wall. I still remember thinking how bomber that pair of star drive ins looked. What a farce.
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Brad Young

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Re: Good routes for a n00b
« Reply #17 on: September 28, 2007, 11:07:02 AM »
You gotta know Uber's history at Pinns specifically. Early on he'd climb with Mr Mud and, occasionally me, going to obscure places to help with FAs and do totally obscure routes. Again and again he'd go with us to do stuff no-one else ever did. Then, in the last three years, with the book, he'd go with me to check out the most unheard of shit all over the Monument. Everywhere that is except where there were three star climbs. All in the name of making the book the best it could be (Factor did a hell of a lot of this too). And he'd still help Mr Mud with FAs too. So in what, a hundred trips to Pinns Uber has skipped almost all the great routes and done much of the crap.

At least he knows his way all over the Monument! And he got the FA of one of my favorite routes: Fungusamongus (fourth class). I made the mistake of getting scared and asking if he'd like to try it. "Yes," was the answer. It's a huge jump from one of the mushroom towers to the other, and back. Big air and big fun.
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Ubergoober

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Re: Good routes for a n00b
« Reply #18 on: October 01, 2007, 08:46:18 PM »
WHAT!?!?!?! There are GOOD climbs at the Pinns?!?!?
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mynameismud

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Re: Good routes for a n00b
« Reply #19 on: October 02, 2007, 12:42:53 AM »
All of them.
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