Author Topic: Anyone done Cuidado (Read 6500 times)

Jeffrey Dopp · « **on:** September 18, 2007, 08:39:11 AM »

Just wondering if anyone has climbed Cuidado on the north end of Machete? If so what did you think and is the rating true?

mungeclimber · « **Reply #1 on:** September 18, 2007, 12:13:27 PM »

Cuidado?

F'ueco · « **Reply #2 on:** September 18, 2007, 01:06:41 PM »

The approach is hell. But I've never done the route so I can't comment on the rating. I hear that you should stay off of it on weekends when there might be people on the trail... I guess it must be very loose.

Brad Young · « **Reply #3 on:** September 18, 2007, 02:14:01 PM »

I've done the first pitch only. Good. Up higher looks good too. The approach is trivial if you do it the first of the 3 ways the new book recommmends. 3 - 4 minutes from the trail, one third class move. My daughters have done it with me.

F'ueco · « **Reply #4 on:** September 18, 2007, 02:36:45 PM »

And that's why we need the new book!

The old book's description of the approach sucks. We got lost, and I skinned my leg up. So we gave up on it. I would still like to get on it though...

mungeclimber · « **Reply #5 on:** September 18, 2007, 03:25:21 PM »

I think Noots has done it.

they still had some loose stuff come off, and think it was in 2007, or late 2006?

not sure on person or timing, but I do remember me asking whoever it was 'is it still loose?' and they said yes.

mynameismud · « **Reply #6 on:** September 18, 2007, 07:45:22 PM »

Everyone that I have talked to really liked the route and said the rating was accurate. If you can take a small stuff sack or extra chalk bag to put in any broken off holds that is good since that stuff goes straight down on the trail which is why it is supposed to be climbed on the weekend.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #7 on:** September 18, 2007, 08:50:43 PM »

"supposed to be climbed on the weekend."

either very funny or very cruel post.

mynameismud · « **Reply #8 on:** September 18, 2007, 09:48:48 PM »

Actually just a brain meltdown. That should be only climbed on weekdays.

Jeffrey Dopp · « **Reply #9 on:** September 20, 2007, 11:50:11 AM »

Yeah, There is probably some loose rock still (it is the Pinns after all). When John McCoy, Eric Brand and I put up the route we did encounter some loose rock but by the time we finished it we knew where the "good" holds were and so we felt it was pretty solid for the most part. I remember Eric falling on the second pitch but he still had the borken hold in his hand so technically he was still on... The approach is cake if you know where to go. I havent seen the new(old) guide book so I'm not sure how it is described. I moved to Tennessee after we did it so I havent really talked to many who have done it and I was just wondering if its still open and if people are enjoying it. I think the 3rd pitch is definitely one of the best in the Pinns. The arete is awesome as you can look down the west side and look over at the east side at the same time.
Anyway thanks for the feedback.
You'all come down to TN and I'll show you some Tennessee Adventure Trad

Ubergoober · « **Reply #10 on:** September 21, 2007, 11:59:02 PM »

Noots and Chris got on it

joe · « **Reply #11 on:** September 22, 2007, 10:54:44 AM »

I did the whole thing a couple of years ago. Loved the route.
Went back to do it again and lead the pitches that I didn't lead the first time through.
There is some seriously loose rock (surprise) after the 1st bolt off of pitch 2. The anchor at the top of pitch 1 presents a bit of a challenge when the leader takes off on the 2nd pitch. Probably the crux of the route is right off the bolt on pitch 2. The pitch 1 anchor is at your feet. A fall here could be a difficult catch for the belayer.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #12 on:** January 26, 2008, 11:18:03 PM »

Link to their route info...

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/central_coast/pinnacles_national_monument/105735413

I often wondered how the park service reacted to this route going in. Was there any issues?

The mp.com site says that the route is closed, and I would say yeah, pretty much treat it that way. Maybe night climbing now that the park isn't actually closed after hours? That way there is no chance of having someone below you.

Otherwise, midweek only and climb really damn carefully. You hit someone with a rock it's your ass. There's no excuse. You would be negligent if it someone.

Jeffrey Dopp · « **Reply #13 on:** January 27, 2008, 04:57:44 PM »

The rangers were very cool about it. Through the many week-ends we spent putting it up that winter they knew exactly what we were up to and were supportive. It was like punching the clock going into the ranger station almost every weekend for a couple of months. They knew our cars as well as our names and always asked us how the route was going.
We never killed anyone or even had a close call. There is some loose rock but it was rare that we popped a hold and it fell to the ground usually we could take the hold and toss it off to the east.
Anyway it's a shame if it is in fact closed as I think it is easily the best multi-pitch route at the Pinns.

joe · « **Reply #14 on:** January 27, 2008, 07:34:26 PM »

I agree it is a totally sweet route. It may be my poor memory, but I don't remember any other loose rock besides that section after the first bolt on the second pitch. That third pitch is killer. I would do it again in a heart beat. Definitely one of the best multi-pitch routes in the monument. Great job.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #15 on:** January 27, 2008, 11:17:11 PM »

that's way amazing the rangers were cool with it.

hope springs eternal

Jeffrey Dopp · « **Reply #16 on:** January 28, 2008, 07:13:38 AM »

Thanks Joe! We had a lot of fun putting it up. We had looked at that face/arete from the balconies for years and only dreamed that there could be a route there. Once we broke out the binoculars and really started looking it began to come together. Finding that ramp with the ancient bolts leading to that "hole" and once we took a look out left we said hmmmm. There is certainly some loose rock but for the amount of ground it covers it's really pretty solid for the Pinns. If you are used to climbing there you already know about the "tap first then use" technique and the primary route is quite solid. The 3rd pitch arete is one of the most spectacular situations anywhere. It seems like it's always windy right there...perfect! Qudos to John McCoy for leading the final bit above the arete through that overhanging cluster of knobs to the belay! I remember watching him stand on the lip above and put in the last bolt before the belay...serious sewing machine. Originally we wanted the route to go out right from there and up that water streak and were dismayed when we discovered that it was just crap. Then we looked up and left to the corner and decided to follow the obvious natural weakness (now there's a concept!) and the last pitch water groove turned out to be fun. We usually rapped the route in three double rope rappels but that may not be the best practice due to the higher chance of rock fall...but it really beats the old-timers decent.
Thanks to the late great Eric Brand for his generous contribution of at least 30 of those bolts!

joe · « **Reply #17 on:** February 08, 2008, 07:33:50 PM »

Climbed Cuidado again today. A few observations:

If anyone is interested in doing it (during the week obviously), now is a very good time. The Balconies Cave trail is a veritable stream which should seriously reduce hikers below. Of course, it's not a bad idea to have a kayak for the approach, but it's a short approach.

The loose rock early in the second pitch through the crux, while serious, can be minimized if you stay slightly left. I still think the second pitch is the most difficult climbing made more so because of the loose rock. The third pitch totally rocks. I forgot how much fun the moves were on the pitch 5, stemming up over the bulge.

Extremely windy there today. Wool hat, windbreaker, at the least. 3 double rope rappels, but the rappel off the top of pitch 5 was problematic. The rope stuck, prusik up to the top, found no real reason, set it up again, briefly stuck a second time. The quick links at the top are uneven. With permission from the first ascentionist (I assume that would be necessary), it would be best to bring them to a lower single point, perhaps with a chain. Most of you have a better idea about this than me, but it really can be a problem. I could easily see someone spending the night on that wall if they didn't have a clue.

I still think it is one of the best routes in the park. Actually, I've heard Tom D say he thought it was the best route in the monument.
Go get it if you haven't.

see many of you good folk on the east side tomorrow.

Jake M. · « **Reply #18 on:** November 03, 2009, 09:01:26 AM »

Hey Brad,

You wrote:

Quote

The approach is trivial if you do it the first of the 3 ways the new book recommmends. 3 - 4 minutes from the trail, one third class move. My daughters have done it with me.

Just to clarify - Option "One" in the new guidebook is Ambush Cutoff 5.7 R, which I'm guessing is different that what you are describing above. Perhaps the book's numbering changed at some point?

Brad Young · « **Reply #19 on:** November 03, 2009, 09:15:05 AM »

Shows I shouldn't go from memory. Page 314, first para, "Two, tunnel to the base...."

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Author Topic: Anyone done Cuidado (Read 6500 times)