Author Topic: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun (Read 27981 times)

The Big · « **Reply #20 on:** November 16, 2005, 01:01:02 PM »

A Mastes Of Mud coffee cup when ever I get aournd to making them.

Jody Langford · « **Reply #21 on:** November 17, 2005, 04:51:51 PM »

Quote from: "mudworm"

Brad, what do you need a non-climbing photo in your guidebook for? I was not leading! -mudworm

I couldn't disagree more. I really don't understand the infatuation with saying you didn't "climb" something unless you led it. You definitely climbed it, you just didn't lead it. So if I follow someone up Machete Direct, freeing all the moves, but as a second instead of leading it, I didn't climb it?

Mei · « **Reply #22 on:** November 17, 2005, 06:03:32 PM »

Hi Jody,

You've probably missed this post. You think Brad was joking?

Normally, I wouldn't make such an extreme statement, but often times I don't say I climbed a route unless I did my share of leading on it; otherwise, I just say I followed it. However, I guess the line can be fuzzy sometimes. After all, It's Brad who wants to put that photo of me following Broken Arrow into the new guidebook! Can you believe that?

-mudworm

mungeclimber · « **Reply #23 on:** November 17, 2005, 07:11:43 PM »

have you ever seen Brad on top rope?

he sucks!

for him, leading is climbing, and he has a good lead head about him.

The more common miscommunication I think is the

"I've done x" Where x = a climb.

To say you've done x, but not clarify whether you've fallen on it, or followed it is misleading.

Absolutely, if you climb it whether falling on it or not, you've climbed it, unless of course you pulled on gear to make upward progress.

I usually stick to either "I've done x" or "I've been on x" but usually even the later is followed quickly with a style notation.

I can't think of a time when I wouldn't have used these or similar denotations. I used to get mad at people for talking as if they had lead it, e.g by describing someone else's lead efforts, and then saying that they had 'done the route.' or earlier saying they had 'done the route' No I just feel sorry for them that they need to have a false ego like that.

The Big · « **Reply #24 on:** November 17, 2005, 07:19:15 PM »

I agree with Munge here. Brad is terrible on tr. You cannot keep the rope tight enough. even if there is 1" of slack he is continually saying up rope.

Good on lead though.

Jody Langford · « **Reply #25 on:** November 17, 2005, 08:24:42 PM »

I always say I "followed so and so up such and such route" or I "led such and such route", etc. I just stop short of saying following or toproping isn't real climbing. John Bachar said, "Top roping is the purest form of roped climbing", meaning, when on top rope you are just worried about making the moves and the free flow of movement on the climb. You are not getting contorted into all different shapes trying to find a place to hang on while you make the clip.

I still say that if you followed someone up a route and didn't pull on gear then you have "done" the route.

By the way, I can't climb much of anything so you won't hear me spray at all about my climbing ability.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #26 on:** November 17, 2005, 09:33:21 PM »

Quote from: "Jody Langford"

John Bachar said, "Top roping is the purest form of roped climbing"

I totally agree with the Bachar idea about TR. I can almost always climb several letter grades above my lead rating at amy given time.

Dude, we got to do Feather Canyon soon. It will probably close like usual.

I was thinking a day above Sonora and a day at Pinns. I have to finish a project on the West side though.

Brad Young · « **Reply #27 on:** November 19, 2005, 08:03:27 PM »

Jody, mudworm and I were joking about my own personal ethic about my own climbing. As long as a person is having fun, what they do on style issues is their own gig. I stopped being judgmental about that kind of stuff two decades ago.

Rob, go do Feather Canyon. I give it two stars for sure. Big fun. Do you have my "better" route descripton? Jody gets special credit if he does it, something about being what they call in fraternities a legacy.

mudworm, worked on the book today. It's in. You look like your floating on air in that photo.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #28 on:** November 19, 2005, 08:09:46 PM »

good deal

ONSIGHT she did it!!! WAH WOOO as a center climbing friend of mine says.

People that helped me with the bolts include; Adam Metzger, Andrew Wang, Mr Mud (including the coveted 2nd ascent).

I was feeling like crud, heat and something I ate i think.

I have the crux sequence on vid. I'll try and put a mini vid together.

Anonymous · « **Reply #29 on:** November 19, 2005, 08:31:05 PM »

Did you guys get Le Petit...? If so, cough up the details. Rating etc. CC and I found BOTH Citadel Stream boulders, and all 4 routes on them, (including the 3 in the current guidebook). Big fun exploring!

The Big · « **Reply #30 on:** November 20, 2005, 10:03:16 PM »

mudworm on the FFA of La Petite Morte

The Big · « **Reply #31 on:** December 04, 2005, 12:54:47 PM »

F4? · « **Reply #32 on:** December 05, 2005, 08:36:14 AM »

Hey Munge,

Look who is out of retirement....

Guess which route?

F4? · « **Reply #33 on:** December 05, 2005, 08:38:48 AM »

Who is this hardman.....

mungeclimber · « **Reply #34 on:** December 05, 2005, 08:46:14 AM »

THe later one is Tardboy, superhero to all.

The first one, I couldn't make out at first, then I checked the other pics at full size.

It is zee famous french climber, no? Pa-trick Eay-lon-bratton

F4? · « **Reply #35 on:** December 05, 2005, 10:18:29 AM »

Yep Munge..that's the one.

Would you believe the last time he was at the Pinns was like 10 yrs ago...I couldn't believe it. I took him on a tour of the classics.

I'll give you a hint on the route....you have lots of rope drag.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #36 on:** December 05, 2005, 10:30:16 AM »

depends on where you belay

piton traverse on mono

F4? · « **Reply #37 on:** December 05, 2005, 11:22:48 AM »

Yep that's the route. All but the 1st piton belong in a museum. Seriously, they need to be replaced.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #38 on:** December 05, 2005, 01:08:31 PM »

all the pitons were gone, when I did it a couple years back.

hrm

The Big · « **Reply #39 on:** December 07, 2005, 10:21:05 PM »

News:

Author Topic: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun (Read 27981 times)

Mei

Brad Young

Anonymous